Totally agree, sealing kits and film can only do so much—been there, tried that. I had a big old window in the living room, and no matter how many layers I added, the cold kept sneaking in. What finally worked was pulling off the trim and adding some spray foam insulation around the frame. Not fancy, but it made a real difference. If you’re not ready to replace the whole window, tightening up the frame is worth a shot before dropping serious cash on new glass. Sometimes those little fixes buy you a few more winters.
Pulling the trim and sealing gaps with spray foam is something I’ve done for a lot of older homes, and it’s surprising how often that fixes drafts better than window film or plastic. Sometimes you find some real gaps hiding behind the trim—like daylight peeking through. One thing I’d add: just be careful not to overdo the foam, since it can bow the frame if you get carried away. It’s not glamorous work, but those little details really help keep the heat in... at least until you’re ready to tackle a full window replacement.
Sometimes you find some real gaps hiding behind the trim—like daylight peeking through. One thing I’d add: just be careful not to overdo the foam, since it can bow the frame if you get carried away.
That’s spot on about the foam—seen a couple of window casings go wavy from folks getting a little too enthusiastic with the “minimal expanding” stuff. It really doesn’t take much. I’ve found it helps to let the bead cure fully and then trim any excess before reinstalling the trim, but sometimes even a gentle hand can make the frame shift if the window’s old or out of square.
Curious if you—or anyone else—has tried using backer rod before the foam? I started doing that after a buddy in weatherization recommended it. Basically, you stuff the gap with foam backer rod (looks like gray rope), then hit it with a small bead of foam. It seems to control the expansion and uses less product, plus it gives the foam something to push against instead of just the wood. Not sure it makes a huge difference on energy bills, but it does make the job tidier.
On big picture windows, I’ve noticed the cold drafts are often more about those hidden perimeter gaps than the glass itself, unless the seal is shot. But I still wonder about the long-term tradeoff—like, is it worth doing all this patchwork every few years, or is biting the bullet and replacing the whole unit smarter in the long run? My 1960s living room window is huge and original, and while sealing helped, the glass still radiates cold. I’m tempted by those modern triple-pane units, but the price tag is wild.
Has anyone had luck with interior storms or heavy curtains as a stopgap? I’ve heard mixed reviews, but haven’t tried them myself. Just seems like there’s always another layer to the “big window” battle...
Curious if you—or anyone else—has tried using backer rod before the foam? I started doing that after a buddy in weatherization recommended it. Basically, you stuff the gap with foam backer rod (looks like gray rope), then hit it with a small bead of foam. It seems to control the expansion and uses less product, plus it gives the foam something to push against instead of just the wood. Not sure it makes a huge difference on energy bills, but it does make the job tidier.
Backer rod is a nice trick and definitely makes for a cleaner job, but I’m not convinced it’s always necessary unless you’ve got those big, uneven gaps. On my last window project (1965 ranch, original windows), I tried both ways—one window with just low-expansion foam, the other with backer rod first. Honestly, couldn’t tell much difference after trim went back on, except I used less foam with the rod. As for energy savings, maybe it helps a little, but I’d argue the bigger impact comes from what you do *after* you seal the perimeter.
I know you mentioned heavy curtains as a stopgap. I actually think they’re underrated. We put up some thick thermal drapes over our giant living room window last winter—nothing fancy, just off-the-shelf panels—and it made a noticeable difference at night. Room felt less drafty, and the furnace didn’t kick on as often. Sure, it’s not the same as new glass, but for a couple hundred bucks it’s hard to beat.
I get the temptation to go all-in on new triple-pane units, but sometimes patchwork plus smart layering gets you 80% of the way there for way less money. If your window glass is still clear and the seals aren’t blown, I’d lean toward incremental upgrades first. The glass will always be colder than an insulated wall in winter—can’t really get around that—but layering up (shrink film, interior storms, heavy drapes) can take the edge off.
One thing I’d challenge is the idea that drafts are “more about those hidden perimeter gaps than the glass itself.” In my experience, it’s both. Even after I foamed every gap and caulked everything, I could still feel cold radiating off the glass itself when sitting nearby. That’s where curtains or interior storms step in. If you’re not ready for full replacement, it’s worth trying those before dropping thousands.
Long story short: sealing is good, but don’t underestimate what a heavy curtain or even a cheap window film kit can do for comfort. Sometimes old windows just need a few layers of help rather than a total gut job.
You’re on the right track—layering solutions really does make a difference, especially if you’re not ready to drop major cash on new windows. I’ve done the backer rod thing too, and like you said, it’s tidier but not life-changing unless the gaps are huge. Heavy curtains were a game-changer in our old living room. Sure, they don’t fix cold glass, but they do keep the room cozier. Sometimes it’s just about stacking small wins instead of going all-in at once.
I get where you’re coming from, but I have to wonder if all those layers are actually worth the hassle sometimes. Heavy curtains definitely help with drafts, but have you checked what’s happening around the window frame itself? I’ve seen a lot of folks spend on curtains and still have cold air sneaking in from poorly sealed trim or even the wall cavity. Sometimes a bit of low-expansion foam behind the casing makes a bigger impact than people expect. Curious—have you tried anything like that, or just sticking to surface fixes?
That’s actually a good point—I hadn’t really thought about the frame itself much. I just went for thick curtains and hoped for the best, but now that you mention it, there’s definitely a cold draft right at the edge when it gets windy. Haven’t tried foam or sealing behind the trim yet. Kinda nervous about messing up the casing, honestly... Is it really as simple as squirting in some low-expansion foam, or is there more to it?
Honestly, I wouldn’t just start blasting foam in there unless you’re cool with possibly having to redo some trim. It’s not always as simple as it sounds—sometimes those gaps are hiding wires or weird framing, and the foam can make a mess if you overdo it. I actually tried it on my old bay window and ended up with bulging trim and a lot of cursing. If you’re nervous, pulling the casing gently and checking what’s behind is way less risky than guessing. Thick curtains help, but they’re more of a band-aid if the frame’s leaking cold air.
That’s a fair point about hidden surprises—when I pulled the casing on my living room window, I found an old phone line running right through the gap. I get tempted by the “quick fix” too, but it’s never as straightforward as it seems. Has anyone tried those low-expansion foam products that claim not to bow out trim, or is that just clever marketing?
I’ve actually tried a couple of those low-expansion foam cans, and I have to say, the results were mixed. The stuff’s definitely less aggressive than the regular spray foam, but it’s not foolproof—if you overfill even a little, it can still push the trim out. I wonder if part of the hype is just marketing, honestly. Sometimes I think good old backer rod and caulk is more predictable, even if it takes longer. Anyone else notice that the foam can be a pain to clean up if you get it on your hands or the floor?