Getting those old pulleys turning smoothly is always a pain—sometimes WD-40 just isn’t enough, especially if you’re dealing with decades of paint and dust buildup. I’ve run into cases where the pulley shaft was bent or the housing was so caked up that it needed to be removed and cleaned out completely. If you’re comfortable pulling the trim and have some patience, it’s doable, but I’ve seen folks get in over their heads when the sash frames are brittle or the stop moldings split. For anyone not used to working with old woodwork, there’s a real risk of damaging original parts that are tough to replace. Worth trying if you’re handy, but calling in help isn’t a bad move if things start going sideways.
I’m in the middle of figuring this out myself, actually. Our windows are original to the house (built in the 1920s) and I was all gung-ho about swapping out the cords—until I realized just how fragile everything is under the paint. I get what you’re saying about damaging old woodwork. It’s kind of intimidating when you start pulling off trim and it feels like it might snap if you look at it wrong.
What I’m wondering is, for folks who’ve gone the DIY route, did you find any tricks for getting the trim off cleanly? I’ve seen some people mention using a heat gun to soften up paint first, but I’m not sure if that’s safe with old finishes. Also, if you do break a piece of stop molding or something, is it possible to find matching replacements, or am I looking at custom millwork?
Trying to figure out if I should keep going or just call someone before I make a mess.
Did this a couple years back on my 1930s place. The trim was so brittle I ended up snapping a piece even though I tried to be careful. Heat gun made me nervous with old paint (lead risk), so I just used a thin putty knife and went super slow. As for matching broken molding, the big box stores didn’t have anything close, but there’s usually a local lumberyard with old profiles or they can mill a small batch. Honestly, it’s a pain but doable if you’ve got patience. If you’re not feeling it, calling a pro isn’t a bad move either.
Yeah, I’ve run into that same problem with old trim—sometimes it feels like you’re handling potato chips instead of wood. Funny thing, the first time I tried to pull a sash out, I was convinced I could save the stops by just “being careful.” Ended up with splinters and a trip to the mill for a custom piece.
You’re right about the lead paint, too. I’ve used heat guns on newer stuff, but on anything pre-1950s, I just don’t risk it. A putty knife and patience is about all you can do. As for matching profiles, those big box stores are hopeless for anything older than 1980... local lumberyards or even architectural salvage places usually have something close, or at least someone who knows what you’re talking about.
Swapping sash cords itself isn’t rocket science, but getting to them without wrecking the trim is where most people get tripped up. If you’ve got steady hands and a chunk of free time, it’s doable. If not, paying someone who’s done it a hundred times might save you a headache—and maybe your original woodwork.