Quick Fixes Are Never Quite That Simple
The touch-up never quite blends right—there’s always that slightly different sheen or texture, even if the color is close.
Yeah, this is exactly where I get hung up. We just moved into a 1960s place and the windows are all original, which sounds cool until you actually try to fix anything. I tried the dowel trick for a loose handle and it did work (at least better than shoving in toothpicks and hoping for the best), but the paint matching drove me nuts. Even after three sample pots from the hardware store, there’s always some weird glare or the patch looks a bit “off” at certain angles.
I’m not totally convinced about foam brushes, though. Maybe I’m using them wrong, but I find they sometimes leave little bubbles or drag marks if I don’t go super slow. Could be my technique, or maybe the old paint underneath just reacts weirdly? The only thing that kind of helped was blending out with one of those tiny artist brushes around the edges and then dabbing at it with a paper towel before it dried. Still not perfect, but less obvious unless you’re really staring at it.
Honestly, sometimes I wonder if it’s worth all this effort when the rest of the window frame looks its age anyway. Anyone else end up just leaving minor stuff alone after a while? It feels like you can chase “perfect” forever with these old windows and never actually get there.
Also, does anyone worry about how solid these repairs are long-term? The dowel feels sturdy now, but part of me keeps expecting it to loosen up again in a year or two. Maybe that’s just paranoia from past DIY disasters...
That paint matching headache is way too real. I tried patching up a chip on our old casement window last summer, and even after dragging the frame to the hardware store for a “perfect” match, it still looked like a slightly sunburned spot. As for the dowel trick, I’ve done it too—held up for about a year before the handle started wobbling again. Sometimes I just call it “vintage charm” and move on... there’s only so much you can do before you drive yourself nuts.
That’s the thing with old windows—sometimes you just have to embrace the quirks. I’ve run into that “vintage charm” more times than I can count, especially with handles that just won’t stay tight. The dowel trick is a classic, but yeah, it’s usually a temporary fix. If you’re up for something a bit more permanent (without replacing the whole mechanism), I’ve had decent luck using a two-part epoxy around the spindle where it fits into the handle. It fills in those worn spots and gives a tighter fit, though you do have to be careful not to glue everything solid.
Paint matching is its own beast... even with those fancy scanners, sunlight and age mess things up. Sometimes I’ll feather out the new paint over a wider area so the difference isn’t as obvious, but honestly, there’s always a little mismatch on older woodwork. At some point, you just have to decide if it’s worth chasing perfection or if “good enough” will do for another season.
Epoxy is definitely a step up from the dowel trick—I've used it a few times, and as long as you’re careful with the application, it can buy those old handles a few more years. The main thing I watch out for is making sure the spindle and handle stay aligned while the epoxy cures, otherwise you end up with a handle that binds or sits crooked. I’ve also had some luck with metal shim stock if the play isn’t too bad—just cut a tiny strip and wrap it around the spindle before reinstalling the handle. It’s less messy than epoxy, and you can always redo it if things loosen up again.
Paint matching on old wood? That’s one of those “close enough” jobs for me. Even when you nail the color, the sheen or texture never quite lines up thanks to years of wear. I’ve seen people get pretty creative feathering out the edges or even distressing the new paint a bit so it doesn’t stand out as much. At a certain point, you just accept that patina is part of the deal with old windows... unless you’re doing a full restoration, which is another headache entirely.
I get what you’re saying about epoxy, but honestly, I’ve had mixed results with it for floppy handles. Sometimes it holds up, but other times the handle just works loose again after a season or two—especially with windows that get a lot of use.
That shim trick is way less hassle in my experience. Plus, if you ever need to take it apart for weatherstripping or insulation upgrades, you’re not stuck chiseling out old epoxy.“I’ve also had some luck with metal shim stock if the play isn’t too bad—just cut a tiny strip and wrap it around the spindle before reinstalling the handle.”
On paint matching, I’m right there with you—never looks quite right. I usually just lean into the “well-loved” look and focus more on sealing up drafts than obsessing over color. Energy bills don’t care if the paint’s perfect...
- Totally agree on the shim stock—way easier to reverse if you need to get back in there later. I’ve had to fix handles where someone went wild with epoxy and it’s a pain, especially on old wood windows.
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Couldn’t have said it better. Drafts are the real enemy.“I usually just lean into the ‘well-loved’ look and focus more on sealing up drafts than obsessing over color.”
- One thing I’ve tried for floppy handles is using a small set screw if there’s enough meat in the handle base. Not always possible, but sometimes it does the trick.
- Curious—has anyone dealt with plastic window handles getting loose? I find they’re even worse for holding repairs.
Drafts are the real enemy.
Yeah, I’m with you there. My old place had those 70s-era plastic handles and honestly, once they started to wobble, nothing I tried really lasted. Set screws stripped out the plastic. I ended up swapping for metal, but that’s not always an option if you’re trying to keep things original. Sometimes I wonder if a dab of silicone would hold better than epoxy, just for flexibility. Anyone tried that?
Sometimes I wonder if a dab of silicone would hold better than epoxy, just for flexibility. Anyone tried that?
I’ve actually used silicone on a couple of old crank handles when I couldn’t get replacements to match—held up okay for a season, but in my case, the flex was almost too much. Epoxy gave a more solid feel, but it’s unforgiving if you ever want to take things apart again. Did you have issues with temperature swings making the plastic brittle? I noticed that in my draftiest windows, especially after a cold snap.
Silicone’s a mixed bag for handles, honestly. I tried it on a 90s-era window in my garage—worked for a while, but after the first winter, that flex you mentioned got worse. Handle started to wiggle more than I liked, especially when temps dropped. Epoxy’s definitely rigid, but yeah, once it’s set, you’re married to it unless you want to risk snapping the whole thing off. In my experience, plastics on older windows do get brittle with the cold, and silicone didn’t really help with that—if anything, the give made it more obvious when the plastic started cracking underneath. If you need something temporary, silicone’s easy to undo, but for a long-term fix, I’d lean toward epoxy (just double-check your alignment before it cures).
I tried it on a 90s-era window in my garage—worked for a while, but after the first winter, that flex you mentioned got worse. Handle started to wiggle more than I liked, especially when temps dr...
I hear you on the silicone not holding up well once winter sets in. I tried it on a basement latch and honestly, it just made the whole thing feel squishier—like you said, the flex gets worse. Epoxy is solid, but I’ve had to chip one off before and that was a pain. If you want something less permanent than epoxy but sturdier than silicone, have you tried those double-sided mounting tapes? They’re not a forever fix, but they’ll get you through a season or two without the handle wiggling every time you open the window.
