If the crack’s big, I’d prop something against the glass from the inside just in case... learned that one the hard way.
Yeah, I’ve seen too many folks try to “just tape it up” and hope for the best, only to end up with a pile of glass on the floor. Contact paper’s not a bad call for a quick fix, but honestly, nothing beats a piece of plywood wedged up if you’re worried about a real break. Once had a client use painter’s plastic and a staple gun—looked awful but kept the cold out until the glazier showed up. Sometimes ugly wins over disaster.
- Plywood’s my go-to if the crack looks like it’s spreading—just wedge it in tight and you’re good until repairs.
- Heavy-duty tape works for tiny cracks, but honestly, it’s not much help for bigger ones.
- Did the plastic-and-staple trick once too... ugly but kept out the wind.
- Cardboard isn’t great—gets soggy fast if it rains. Stick with plywood or even an old shelf if you’ve got one lying around.
Cardboard isn’t great—gets soggy fast if it rains.
Yeah, learned that the hard way during a storm last fall... Thought I was clever with a big ol’ Amazon box and duct tape, but by morning it looked like papier-mâché soup. Plywood’s definitely the MVP if you’ve got something thick enough lying around, but I’ve also used an old picture frame glass in a pinch. Not perfect, but it kept the wind out for a couple days till I could get the real fix.
Heavy-duty tape is hit or miss for me. The clear stuff looks better but doesn’t hold long. Gorilla tape works better, but then you’re stuck scraping off sticky bits later. Never tried the plastic-and-staple trick, though—sounds ugly as sin, but hey, whatever works when it’s freezing out.
Honestly, half the battle is just finding something that’ll last more than a night or two without making your place look like a haunted house.
I get the haunted house vibe—my living room looked like a crime scene for a week after I tried the plastic-and-tape thing. If you’ve got a broken window and nothing else, I’ve had decent luck with that clear plastic drop cloth and painter’s tape. It’s not pretty, but it keeps the cold out for a bit and doesn’t leave as much gunk behind as Gorilla tape. Not perfect, but better than soggy cardboard or a trash bag flapping in the wind.
I get the haunted house vibe—my living room looked like a crime scene for a week after I tried the plastic-and-tape thing.
I get what you mean about painter’s tape being less messy, but I’ve actually had it peel off in cold weather. That drop cloth trick works in a pinch, but if you want something sturdier, I’ve had better luck with shrink film kits. They’re not as makeshift-looking and the seal holds up longer—especially if the window’s going to be out of commission for more than a couple days. Cardboard’s only good if you’re desperate, honestly.
- Totally agree on the cardboard—tried that in college and it just turned into a soggy mess after one rain.
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Shrink film is my go-to too, but I have to admit, it’s a pain to get off if you use too much tape.“the seal holds up longer—especially if the window’s going to be out of commission for more than a couple days.”
- For quick fixes, I’ve used clear packing tape. Not pretty, but at least you don’t feel like you’re living in a plastic bubble.
- If you’ve got any weather stripping lying around, slap that on the edges for a slightly less tragic look.
Tried the packing tape trick last winter when my kitchen window cracked—definitely not pretty, but it kept the draft out until I could get someone to fix it. Never tried shrink film though... does it peel paint off when you finally take it down?
Never tried shrink film though... does it peel paint off when you finally take it down?
Honestly, I’ve used shrink film a couple winters now—never had it peel paint, but I stick it to the window frame, not the wall. Key is gentle removal and not leaving it on till July... Learned that the hard way. Packing tape left more gunk than the film ever did.
I’ve had the same experience—shrink film’s never pulled paint for me, but I’m careful where I stick it. I do wonder if the type of paint or how old it is makes a difference? My trim’s got a pretty tough enamel, so maybe that helps. One thing I noticed: if you use the double-sided tape they give you, it comes off clean, but regular tape can be a pain. Ever tried painter’s tape underneath as a buffer? That’s worked for me on older wood frames.
That’s interesting about the painter’s tape as a buffer—I haven’t actually tried that, but I can see how it’d help, especially with older or flaky paint. I’ve always worried about pulling up those old layers, since my house is from the 1940s and the trim’s seen better days. Sometimes even blue painter’s tape can be a little too aggressive if the paint’s brittle.
I do wonder if the type of paint or how old it is makes a difference? My trim’s got a pretty tough enamel, so maybe that helps.
I think you’re onto something there. The windows in my kitchen have newer latex, and the shrink film never budges it. But in the front room, where I haven’t repainted in ages, I did notice a bit of peeling when I took the film off last spring. Maybe it really does come down to how “fresh” or well-adhered your paint is.
Have you ever had issues with shrink film on metal frames? I tried patching a cracked basement window with it once, and the tape didn’t want to stick at all. Ended up using clear packing tape just to get through winter, but it left a sticky mess that took forever to clean off. Wondering if there’s a trick for getting tape to stick to cold metal, or if I just need to bring out the hair dryer next time.
Also—has anyone tried those temporary glass repair films they sell at hardware stores? I’m curious if they’re any better than just using shrink film and tape, or if it’s basically the same thing in fancier packaging. Sometimes feels like every “quick fix” is just a new spin on tape and plastic.
Anyway, does anyone else have luck with other ways to keep a cracked pane together until you can get it replaced? I’ve heard of using clear nail polish for small cracks, but never tried it myself.
