@slewis17 Great questions! I can speak to the black frame part since we did black exterior and we considered interior colors too.
For our project, we chose black outside and white inside. This two-tone option is pretty commonly offered, at least by the major brands. The exterior of our frames is a factory-finished black, and the interior is a clean white. This gave us the exact scenario you’re describing: outside we get that slick black trim look, inside our windows still match all the white trim and walls. Best of both worlds! It did not cost significantly more in our case – I think many vinyl and fiberglass window manufacturers have standard color options like that. Just be sure to ask for “dual-color frames” or “two-tone”. The one catch is usually the frame material might dictate the colors (e.g., some brands only do two-tone if you get fiberglass or aluminum-clad, while others can do it in vinyl). But since black exteriors are so popular now, lots of companies have jumped on that.
As for black exterior durability: It's been 2 years for us in the Florida sun and the frames look as good as new. We specifically chose a reputable manufacturer (PGT in our case) known for their finish quality. The vinyl is actually through-and-through colored (not just a surface paint), and it has UV inhibitors. No warping, no fading so far. The frames do get warm to the touch in direct sun (certainly hotter than a white frame would), but that doesn’t seem to affect anything structurally. I made sure the windows were rated for our climate – most are.
One tip: If you go with aluminum or fiberglass frames in black, those materials inherently handle heat well (aluminum will get very hot but won’t warp; fiberglass is super stable). Vinyl technology has improved a lot, and good vinyl should be fine too, but if it’s a concern and budget allows, you could explore fiberglass windows (they can be painted any color, and are often offered in black). We found vinyl was more cost-effective and still durable enough for us.
Aesthetically, inside the house, I personally love having white interiors. I’ve been in homes where the interior window frames are black or bronze, and while it can look dramatic if done right, it can also dominate the room. White interior frames just blend in. It also saved us from having to repaint all our interior trim to match something else.
So yes, go for the two-tone! It’s quite common especially with the black/white combo. No one can tell from the outside that our interior is a different color – the frames came that way from the factory. And no issues with the Florida sun on black so far. Just make sure you choose a good quality product and a company experienced with installing them (so they handle expansion gaps, etc., correctly). Our installer mentioned they leave a tiny bit more room for dark-colored frames to expand in the heat, and they use good caulking, etc., but that’s all on them to worry about.
Hope that helps. Your modern farmhouse sounds like it will look amazing with black windows against white siding. 😎
I recently did a full window overhaul on my home in Palm Harbor (Pinellas County), so I can give a perspective on project scale, cost, and outcome for a big job.
My house is a 1980s two-story, and we had 20 windows replaced (yep, it was almost every window in the house). We chose bronze aluminum frames with impact glass. Bronze in our case is a dark brown color, kind of a classic look that complements our tan siding and brownish roof. I was torn between bronze and white, but bronze won out because our roof is a weathered wood (brownish) shingle and we have a lot of earthy tones; white would have been a high contrast. The bronze frames look really elegant and cohesive with the rest of the exterior.
Let me talk about the process & practical bits:
Timeline: From the time we placed the order to installation was about 10 weeks. Custom manufacturing of impact windows can take a while, and there’s high demand in Florida. So if you’re planning, keep that lead time in mind – especially if you want custom colors or shapes.
Installation: The crew of 4 came and knocked it out in two long days. They had to remove some interior trim and exterior stucco around each opening, put the new windows in, shim and secure them, then patch things up. It’s a bit messy (lots of dust and some plaster chipping), but a good installer will minimize that. They also handled all the permitting and inspections. Pinellas County inspector came on day 2 to approve the installation (which passed with flying colors).
Cost: It was expensive – our total was around $18,000 for 20 windows (averaging 900 each). That was with a trusted local installer (not the absolute cheapest quote, but we chose them for their reputation). We did get a cheaper quote around $15k from another company, but they had less stellar reviews. We decided that for something as important as windows, it’s worth paying a bit more for peace of mind on the install quality. No regrets there.
Results: The house looks fantastic. Honestly, windows made more difference than when we repainted the exterior. It just looks fresher and more upscale. We’ve gotten compliments from neighbors who noticed the change immediately. The bronze color gives it a subtle richness; several neighbors have white frames, and ours just stands out a bit more (in a good way) without being too flashy like black can be.
Everyday differences: As others have said, the noise reduction is real. We live not far from US-19, and road noise was always background. Now, it’s significantly hushed. And the insulation factor: huge. Summer hasn’t hit full force yet since installation, but even on warm days, our interior stays cooler. In winter, we noticed the heat didn’t escape like it used to through leaky single-panes.
Practical tips: If you’re doing a lot of windows, plan for where you’ll be during install. We stayed in the house (just shuffled from room to room as they worked). Also, after install, you might need to do some touch-up painting on walls or trim, and maybe even have some stucco repainted outside where they patched. Our installer did an okay job color-matching the stucco, but I can see slight differences. I’ll probably paint those spots to blend in perfectly.
We didn’t specifically use Karoly or ProTech (though we did get a quote from one of them). We ended up with another company a friend recommended. But from our research, both Karoly and ProTech have solid reps in this area too.
In summary, doing all windows at once is a bit of a wallet hit and logistical challenge, but if you can swing it, the transformation is amazing. The house feels newer, safer, and more comfortable. If anyone wants more details on cost breakdown or dealing with a large project, let me know!
@slewis17 I just wanted to chime in on your interior/exterior color question with my experience. In my case, I did something similar but with a twist – I have a wood-look interior and colored exterior. Essentially, my windows are two-tone: interior is a wood grain finish (which I painted over to match my white interior trim), and exterior is an engineered bronze color. So yes, two-tone is definitely doable and pretty normal nowadays.
Also, since we’re talking style and interior, one thing to consider is how the window frames look inside your rooms with your decor. For my bungalow, I even added back some interior wood trim casings around the new windows to maintain the old-fashioned look (the installers saved my original trim and reinstalled it). If you’re doing black inside for a modern look, you might keep the trim minimal and let the black frame be the outline. But since you want white inside, you can have your normal white casings and it’ll all blend nicely.
On another note, to everyone, I want to rave about the grid patterns one more time. I was nervous about doing a historically inspired grid on modern windows, but it turned out great. The manufacturer was able to place the grids (muntins) inside the glass panes for easy cleaning, but they have the option to do external grids too for an authentic look. I chose internal grids for low maintenance. Even so, the pattern is visible and gives that charm.
Our 3-over-1 grids make our new windows look like they could be 100-year-old originals (until you get up close and see the newness). It’s such a relief because I really wanted to keep the Craftsman vibe. The prairie grid we used on a couple of accent windows also adds a nice touch – it’s a rectangle in the center with smaller squares in the corners, kind of a Frank Lloyd Wright style. It doesn’t scream for attention but adds visual interest. We got compliments from a neighbor who thought we had salvaged some antique windows!
So if anyone with a bungalow or historic-style home is following along: don’t be afraid to go for those custom grid patterns or wood-look finishes. It might cost a bit more and take some extra planning, but you can get windows that are both historically appropriate and meet modern hurricane codes. Our windows are proof – they survived 60+ mph winds in a storm last year without so much as a rattle, all while looking like old-school windows. 😄
I have a different kind of question: has anyone dealt with replacing old jalousie windows (the old-school crank-out louvered glass slat ones)?
We have a 1960s Florida room attached to our house in Largo (Pinellas) that still has a full wall of jalousie windows. They’re charming in a vintage Florida way and great for breeze when open, BUT they are super drafty and obviously not hurricane safe at all (basically a strong wind could rip those glass slats out). We mainly close that room off during storms.
I’m looking to upgrade that Florida room’s windows to something more secure and efficient, but I’d like to maintain the ability to get a nice breeze when we open them up. One idea I had was to use awning windows as a replacement. Awning windows crank out from the bottom (hinged at the top), so in a sense they could give a similar vibe of an open glass panel and can even catch some breeze while keeping rain out.
Has anyone replaced jalousies with awning windows, or any other style? How did it work out in terms of airflow and look? The Florida room is not air-conditioned currently (more of a screened/ windowed porch), but I may install a minisplit AC eventually and would want those new windows to help insulate.
Also, do I need to get impact windows for a room like that? It’s technically part of the house (under the roof), but I could also just put up plywood or shutters on them if a storm comes since we usually don’t occupy that space during bad weather. Impact vs non-impact is a consideration here too, given the number of panes (there are like 10 jalousie panels floor to ceiling).
Any experiences or suggestions are welcome!
@gaming_duke Oh boy, jalousie windows – I know exactly what you’re dealing with. We had a similar setup in a sunroom on our St. Pete home. The breezes were nice, but those things leaked AC like crazy and were a security risk (could literally open them from outside by flipping the slats). We replaced them last year.
We went with awning windows and have been really happy with the decision. Here’s how it turned out for us:
Breeze & ventilation: Awning windows do catch the breeze somewhat, though perhaps not quite as much as jalousies that open almost fully. Still, because you can crank awnings out to maybe a 30-40 degree angle, they act like a small roof that funnels air in. We put a row of awning windows all along the top of the wall (we had the option to do one large awning or two stacked; we did two in some spots). On nice days, we crank them all out and it’s a pretty decent airflow. If you want even more airflow, another option could be casement windows (hinged on the side) because those can open a full 90 degrees like a door, scooping in air. But in our case, awnings worked better because of the width vs height of the openings.
Weather: A big benefit already – you can leave awning windows open in light rain and the water won’t come in (since they’re like little eaves when open). With jalousies, even a drizzle meant water inside. Now, if it’s a blowing rain storm, of course we close them, but a passing shower is fine.
Look: The awning windows actually modernized the look of the sunroom a lot. They have far fewer visible lines compared to jalousies. We did them without grids for a clean look. When closed, they just look like regular fixed windows (you barely notice the horizontal bar where they hinge). When open, they still give a bit of that retro feel, just one solid pane angled out instead of a bunch of slats. I kind of dig it – it’s like a homage to the old jalousie style but cleaner.
Impact vs not: We decided to go with impact glass on these awning windows as well, mainly because we wanted the insurance credits and we figured why leave one weak spot in the house? Even though it’s a sunroom, it’s connected to the main house (no exterior door separating it). So for storms, if those windows blew in, wind and rain could enter the main house. It just made sense to upgrade them too. If your Florida room is more separated or you have shutters, you could potentially save by doing non-impact. But keep in mind, modern awning windows will usually be double-pane anyway (for efficiency), and adding the lamination for impact isn’t a huge jump in price for small sizes. We felt better just doing it right.
Practical stuff: One thing – our awning windows have sturdy locks and multi-point latches that pull the sash tight. Huge difference from those flimsy jalousie handles. Also, the new frames (vinyl frames) are much more air-tight. After adding these, we actually decided to put a small AC unit (minisplit) for the sunroom and it cools the space nicely now that the air isn’t escaping through a million jalousie gaps. It’s practically an all-season living area.
So yes, I’d say awning windows are a great solution to replace jalousies. You get to keep the airflow and casual vibe, but gain in security and efficiency. Just make sure you measure the rough openings – sometimes jalousie setups have non-standard sizes. Our installer had to add a little framing here and there since we went with standard sized awning units to save cost.
Hope that helps! It was one of the best upgrades we did for that space. No more rattling glass slats during storms, and it looks so much cleaner.
Sorry if this is a bit basic, but I’m trying to follow the different window grid styles mentioned and got a little confused. Could someone clarify what prairie grids are versus colonial grids? 🤔
My home is a mid-century ranch in Carrollwood (Hillsborough). Currently, the windows have no grids at all (just plain glass), which suits the mid-century look. However, as I consider new windows, I’m wondering if adding grids would enhance the style or not. I’ve heard the terms colonial, prairie, even craftsman grids, but not entirely sure which is which.
From what I gather:
Colonial is the traditional criss-cross (like 6 little panes over 6 little panes, etc.).
Prairie I think has the lines only at the edges?
Would prairie grids look odd on a simple ranch house? Or should I stick to no grids for a cleaner look? I kind of like the idea of adding some detail, but I don’t want to break the mid-century vibe too much. Maybe just on the front windows for a decorative touch?
Appreciate any grid 101 explanation and style advice!
@samjones592 Sure thing! It can be a little confusing, so here’s a quick rundown of common grid (grille) styles:
Colonial grids: These are the classic ones with criss-cross patterns dividing the sash into smaller equal rectangles/squares. For example, a common colonial pattern on a double-hung is 6-over-6 (six panes in top sash, six in bottom), or 4-over-4, etc. They give a very traditional look, reminiscent of colonial or Cape Cod styles. Think of the typical old East Coast home or even many older Florida homes – lots of little glass panes making up one window.
Prairie grids: This style has a distinctive pattern – usually two vertical and two horizontal muntins that create a sort of frame within the glass. It results in a larger square or rectangle in the center and smaller rectangles or squares in the corners. So you get a clear center with a “border” of grid. This style was made famous by Frank Lloyd Wright and the Prairie School of design (hence the name). It has a vintage feel (early 1900s) but in a slightly more modern, geometric way compared to colonial. Prairie grids often look great on Craftsman, prairie-style homes, or even some farmhouses. They add character without as many little pieces.
Craftsman or farmhouse grids: Often, these terms refer to variations like what @jmartin52 described – say a 3-over-1 or 2-over-1 pattern (only the top sash has divisions, bottom is one pane). It’s common in bungalows and Craftsman homes. In modern farmhouse style, sometimes you see a simple grid pattern like a few vertical bars in a tall window, which gives a minimalist traditional look.
No grids (clear view): Many mid-century modern and contemporary homes go gridless for that open, uncluttered glass look.
For a mid-century ranch, a lot of those originally had either no grids or maybe very simple ones (sometimes horizontal sliders with no grids at all). If you want to add some detail, you could do it sparingly. Prairie grids could actually look cool if you have large picture windows – it adds a retro touch that might complement mid-century (since Frank Lloyd Wright’s era overlapped with mid-century). Colonial grids might lean too traditional or formal for a mid-century ranch, in my opinion.
Another idea: perhaps do a grid pattern on only certain windows like a front picture window with a prairie grid, and keep others plain. Or do a simplified grid, like 2 vertical bars splitting a wide window into three sections (that can nod to mid-century styles, kind of like a storefront look).
It really comes down to the aesthetic you want. If your house has a lot of mid-century character (stonework, low-slung roof, etc.), no grids might actually stay truest to that style. Prairie could add a unique twist if done on a few accent windows.
One more consideration: if all houses in your area have gridless or certain grid styles, you may or may not want to deviate. But since you’re thinking style enhancement, I’d say look at some reference photos. Perhaps search “mid-century ranch with prairie grid windows” and see if you like it.
Personally, I kept no grids on my mid-century investment property because I wanted the clean look. But I’ve seen a renovated ranch in South Tampa where they added prairie grids to the front windows and it looked surprisingly nice – gave it a little upscale cottage flavor.
So, grid 101: colonial = symmetric classic, prairie = border pattern, craftsman = grids in upper only, and gridless = modern clean. For you, I’d lean either gridless or a subtle prairie. But you can’t go too wrong. Worst case, grids that are inside the glass can sometimes be ordered as removable grilles (with some brands) – so you could even take them out if you change your mind (worth asking the window company).
Hope that helps clear it up!
Hi everyone, chiming in from Apollo Beach (Hillsborough). My focus was on energy efficiency (and a bit on tech), so I wanted to share what a difference the right window glass can make in our Tampa Bay climate.
Our house has a west-facing rear side with big windows overlooking the bay. It’s great for sunsets, but it used to absolutely roast the living room each afternoon. We replaced those old single-pane sliders with new double-pane Low-E windows and it’s been a night-and-day difference.
Specifically:
The new windows have a Low-E 366 coating (that’s a type of high-performance Low-E that blocks like 95% of UV and a large chunk of infrared). There is a slight tint to them (from some angles a faint greenish or bluish hue), but honestly you don’t notice it unless you’re looking for it. From inside, the clarity is great – colors outside look true.
We also chose windows with argon gas between the panes. I don’t “see” the argon of course, but it further insulates. Combined with the Low-E, our interior stays much cooler. Last summer, I measured with an infrared thermometer out of curiosity: the interior glass surface of those west windows was about 15°F cooler after replacement, during peak sun, than it was with the old windows. That’s huge – it means way less heat is radiating into the room.
The AC now actually shuts off in late afternoon sometimes, which never happened before because it was fighting the sun until sunset. We saw roughly a 20% drop in our summer electric bill after the window project. Some of that might be also better seals, etc., but the Low-E is doing a lot of work for sure.
UV protection: As a bonus, Low-E means less UV fading. Our hardwood floors and couch near those windows were visibly sun-bleached over the years. We haven’t had the new windows long enough to judge long-term fading, but Low-E glass typically blocks most UV rays, so I expect that issue is solved. I notice our rug by the door hasn’t changed color at all since the install, whereas before it’d probably be lighter by end of summer.
We did not go triple-pane (not common here, as others mentioned), but we did ask about it. The consensus from multiple vendors was that in Florida, you’re better off with double-pane and a good Low-E coating rather than triple-pane. Triple can slightly improve insulation (good up north), but here the limiting factor is usually how much solar radiation comes through. Low-E addresses that directly. Plus triple-pane adds weight and reduces the visible light a bit more.
One cool tech thing we did consider: smart tint film that you can apply to glass and control with an app (like it turns opaque or tinted at the press of a button). We thought about it for a bathroom window instead of frosted glass. We ended up not doing it (seemed a bit gimmicky and pricey, and potential to malfunction in humidity), but it’s out there. Instead, we used frosted privacy glass for bathroom windows.
So my two cents: definitely prioritize Low-E coatings for Tampa Bay homes. Whether you go for style or not, make sure that glass has a good solar control layer. Your air conditioner will thank you, and you’ll recoup some of the investment in energy savings. All the reputable brands offer a Low-E suited for our zone. Ours was via Simonton (and installed by a local company). Simonton even had options for different tint levels of Low-E; we chose the highest heat-rejection one since we aren’t worried about losing a tiny bit of light.
Oh, also if you have the option for tempered glass on really large windows or those near doors – we tempered a couple of big panes just for extra safety (tempered glass shatters in small pieces). Impact glass often negates the need for tempering (since it has the laminate), but in non-impact large windows, consider tempering. It’s required by code in some locations like near doors or bathrooms.
Happy to share that after these upgrades, our house is way more comfortable. Stylish-wise, we kept white frames and no grids to not distract from our waterfront view, but reading all these style ideas makes me want to add some flair next time!
For those who have done these upgrades, did you notice a big difference in noise reduction? I live on a pretty busy street in Tampa (plus we have, uh, noisy neighbors with loud music on weekends). My current windows are old and thin, and it feels like there’s no barrier to sound at all.
I’m planning to replace windows mainly for storm safety and efficiency, but if it also cuts down noise, that’d be a huge plus. I’m debating between regular double-pane versus laminated impact glass from a noise perspective.
I have a two-story townhome, with bedrooms facing the street. Currently they’re single-pane sliders with no sound insulation. If I switch to, say, double-pane vinyl windows (non-impact), will that make a noticeable dent in noise? Or should I go impact (laminated) to really get the sound dampening benefit?
Also, is one window style better than another for noise? For example, casements vs. double-hung vs. sliders – or is it mostly the glass that matters?
Just curious if anyone had a “whoa it’s so quiet now” moment after their new windows went in. I can deal with the neighbors’ music if needed, but sleeping through traffic noise would be nice!
@breezetraveler Absolutely noticed the difference! Our old windows were aluminum single-pane sliders and some single-hungs – basically paper-thin for sound. After we installed the new impact double-pane windows, the noise reduction was one of the first things we appreciated.
Laminated impact glass is a big factor in cutting noise. The plastic interlayer in the glass (the same thing that keeps it from shattering everywhere) also dampens sound vibrations. It’s akin to how car windshields (which are laminated) reduce road noise.
In our case, post-replacement, the everyday sounds from outside became much less intrusive:
Traffic noise: We live near a road that’s not super busy, but cars go by frequently. Before, we heard engines, horns, loud exhausts clearly. Now, it’s a muffled whoosh at most. We sometimes don’t notice traffic at all.
Neighborhood sounds: lawn mowers, dogs barking, etc., are significantly quieter inside. It’s not soundproof, but it’s the difference between being very noticeable and being background noise.
Storm noise: Bonus – heavy rain on the windows sounds softer now (partly the sturdier glass, partly better seals). And wind whistling is pretty much gone.
Regarding double-pane non-impact vs. impact: even standard double-pane will help with noise because you have two layers of glass with air (or gas) in between. That alone cuts sound transmission a bit. But if you want maximum quiet, laminated (impact) glass is the way to go. Some people get laminated glass specifically for noise reduction in non-hurricane areas (like for houses near airports etc.). In our area, we get the benefit of both storm protection and a quieter home by choosing impact.
Window style and noise: The style (casement vs double-hung vs slider) can matter in terms of how well they seal. Casements (that crank out and seal tight against the frame) can be really good for noise because they often have a compression seal all around – when locked, they’re snug. Double-hungs and sliders typically have more weatherstripping and potential gaps (especially sliders, which have that meeting rail in the middle). However, a well-built slider or double-hung with proper seals will still reduce noise dramatically compared to old single-panes.
In my home, we have mostly single-hung and a couple of casements. I’d say the casement maybe blocks sound a tad more when closed, but it’s not a huge difference; the glass was the main factor. Our neighbors have all new sliders and they said the noise reduction was huge for them too – so any modern window with good insulating glass will help.
From what you described (townhome on busy street), I’d highly recommend going impact for the noise (and safety). When our install was done, the quiet was almost eerie at first – like we could hear ourselves think again 😄. My friend joked that their baby finally napped better after they got impact windows because the garbage trucks in the morning didn’t wake them.
So yes, a resounding “whoa it’s quiet now” from me! It’s one of those quality of life improvements you don’t fully anticipate. Good luck with your project – sounds like it will tackle lots of issues (storms, energy, and noise) in one go.