Notifications
Clear all

Easy ways to spruce up your window trim without breaking the bank

19 Posts
17 Users
0 Reactions
133 Views
natecyclotourist
Posts: 8
(@natecyclotourist)
Active Member
Joined:

"Just a heads-up: countersinking properly takes some practice—too shallow and you'll see the screw heads through paint; too deep and patching becomes a hassle."

Good point about countersinking. If you're struggling with depth consistency, try using an adjustable countersink bit. I picked one up recently—it has a depth stop collar built-in, which keeps things uniform without much fuss. It's a small investment that saves time and prevents headaches later... especially if you're particular about finish quality.

Reply
Posts: 10
(@sophie_clark)
Active Member
Joined:

Adjustable countersink bits are handy, but do you find the depth stop collar actually stays put? I've tried a couple different brands, and it seems like after a few holes, the collar slips just enough to throw off consistency. Maybe I'm just unlucky or buying the wrong ones...

Honestly, I've gone back to marking my drill bit with painter's tape as a visual guide. It's not perfect, but at least I know it won't shift mid-project. Anyone else have better luck with specific brands or tricks to keep the collar from slipping? I'd love to trust them again—because patching overly deep countersinks is definitely not my idea of a good time.

Reply
Posts: 28
(@gaming_duke)
Eminent Member
Joined:

"Honestly, I've gone back to marking my drill bit with painter's tape as a visual guide."

Painter's tape does work, but I found it can get shredded up pretty quickly. What I've done instead is swapped out the standard collar screw with a better-quality set screw from the hardware store—something with a wider head that grips tighter. Also, adding just a tiny dab of thread-locker (blue, not red!) keeps things in place without making adjustments impossible later. Worth a try before giving up on collars completely...

Reply
spilot63
Posts: 7
(@spilot63)
Active Member
Joined:

Painter's tape is okay for quick jobs, but yeah, it does tend to shred or slip after a few holes. I've had decent luck using a sharpie to mark the bit—just a quick line around it. It fades eventually, but usually lasts long enough for smaller projects. Your upgraded collar idea sounds solid though...might have to give that a shot next time I'm tackling trim work.

Reply
Posts: 20
(@tim_seeker)
Eminent Member
Joined:

Painter's tape definitely has its limits—I learned that the hard way when I redid my kitchen window trim last summer. Thought I'd be clever and reuse the same strip for multiple holes, but it ended up slipping and leaving me with uneven drill marks. The sharpie trick sounds handy, though I wonder if pencil might work better since it wouldn't fade as quickly? Curious about that collar upgrade too...might save me from another weekend of patching up mistakes.

Reply
psychology_ginger
Posts: 4
(@psychology_ginger)
New Member
Joined:

Painter's tape is definitely hit or miss. Pencil marks are my go-to—easy to erase and adjust if needed. The collar upgrade is worth it too, keeps things precise and saves a ton of time fixing mistakes later. Also, sealing up gaps around the trim with caulk afterward helps with drafts...small step but makes a noticeable difference in energy efficiency.

Reply
Posts: 6
(@mario_paws)
Active Member
Joined:

"Also, sealing up gaps around the trim with caulk afterward helps with drafts...small step but makes a noticeable difference in energy efficiency."

Totally agree on the caulking—it's one of those underrated steps that really pays off. If you're looking for another budget-friendly way to spruce things up, consider adding a fresh coat of semi-gloss paint. It reflects just enough light to brighten the room and makes cleaning fingerprints or dust easier down the road.

Here's how I'd tackle it: after penciling your lines (like you mentioned, way easier than tape), lightly sand down any rough spots or old paint drips. Then apply a primer if you're covering darker colors or stains—trust me, skipping primer usually means extra coats later. Once that's dry, two thin coats of semi-gloss paint usually does the trick. Thin coats dry faster and reduce drips, saving you from headaches later.

Did this recently in my living room and it honestly felt like I installed brand new trim...without spending much at all.

Reply
aturner63
Posts: 10
(@aturner63)
Active Member
Joined:

Semi-gloss definitely has its perks, but honestly, I've found it can highlight imperfections a bit too much if your trim isn't in great shape. Satin finish might be a better compromise—still easy to clean, but less reflective. Also, sanding is helpful, but be careful not to overdo it...I learned the hard way that aggressive sanding can create uneven spots that paint won't hide. Just my two cents from a recent hallway project.

Reply
Posts: 19
(@aaronsage781)
Eminent Member
Joined:

I totally get what you're saying about semi-gloss highlighting imperfections. When we moved into our place, the window trim was pretty beat-up—lots of dings and chips from previous owners. I thought semi-gloss would brighten things up nicely, but it ended up making every little flaw super obvious. Oops.

Ended up lightly sanding (lesson learned from your aggressive sanding story, haha) and switched to satin finish, and honestly, it made a huge difference. Still easy enough to wipe clean when the kids leave fingerprints everywhere, but way more forgiving visually. Another quick trick I found helpful was using caulk to fill in those tiny gaps around the edges before painting. It makes everything look so much neater without costing much at all.

Anyway, just sharing my experience—hopefully saves someone else from repainting twice like I did...

Reply
Page 2 / 2
Share:
Scroll to Top