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Keeping wood windows healthy—any tricks to stop them rotting?

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sky_paws
Posts: 36
(@sky_paws)
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“Sometimes it’s less about the paint and more about stopping the source.”

That hits the nail on the head. I’ve spent way too much time fussing over which primer to use, but then realized half my problem was just water sneaking in from the gutters overflowing above the window. Fixed that, and suddenly the paint (even the cheap stuff) held up way better.

I’m with you on oil-based primers lasting longer, especially on old windows. I tried a fancy water-based one last spring—looked great for a few months, but by winter, I could already see some bubbling near the bottom corners. Maybe it’s just our damp climate (Pacific Northwest), but I’m not convinced water-based is ever going to cut it on these old sashes. The cleanup is nicer, sure, but I’d rather do it right once.

That said, I do wonder if we sometimes overthink all the products and forget about just keeping things dry in the first place. Like, I’ve seen people spend a fortune on paints and sealants but ignore that their downspout dumps water right at the foundation. Or they skip on re-caulking because it’s a pain. Honestly, half my “window rot” was just from ignoring old caulk lines that cracked open over time.

One thing I started doing is popping open the bottom sash every now and then to check for soft spots or musty smells—caught a little patch of rot early last fall and was able to patch it before it spread. Not sure if that’s a “trick,” but it beats waiting until you see peeling paint or mushrooms growing out of your sill.

Anyway, I’m still skeptical about any miracle products. Seems like it’s mostly elbow grease and keeping water away that makes the difference. If anyone’s found something that actually keeps wood healthy without all the hassle, I’d love to hear about it... but until then, I’ll stick with oil primer and a caulk gun.


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Posts: 10
(@pumpkinjones840)
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I’m curious—has anyone tried those borate wood treatments before painting? I keep hearing mixed things about whether they actually help with rot or just add another step. I’m in a spot where the sills get morning shade and stay damp, so I’m always looking for ways to buy time between full repaints. Is it overkill, or does it actually make a difference long-term?


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kimpaws878
Posts: 18
(@kimpaws878)
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I keep seeing borate treatments pop up in discussions, but I’ve never been fully convinced they’re worth the extra effort unless you’re dealing with a really bad rot problem. From what I’ve seen, they do stop some fungi and bugs, but if your sills stay damp most mornings, isn’t the bigger issue just moisture management? I mean, are you getting enough airflow around those windows, or is the shade just unavoidable?

One thing I wonder—if you use borate and then slap on a good primer and paint, does it actually buy you more years than just sanding down and repainting every few seasons? I’ve had clients swear by epoxy consolidants instead, especially on old sills that already have some soft spots. But then, that’s another layer of work too.

Has anyone noticed paint adhesion issues after borate treatments? I’ve heard mixed things about how well paint sticks after, depending on how thoroughly you let it dry.


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Posts: 16
(@charlese44)
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I get the appeal of borate, but honestly, I haven’t seen it make a dramatic difference unless you’re already dealing with some serious rot or bugs. Like you said, if your sills are wet every morning, borate’s just a band-aid. I’ve tried it once—waited forever for it to dry, then primed and painted. Paint stuck fine, but after two years, moisture still found its way in. For me, keeping water away (better caulk, flashing, even a small awning) did more than any chemical treatment ever did. Epoxy’s great for patching up soft spots, but if the wood keeps getting soaked, you’re fighting a losing battle.


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Posts: 15
(@nancyroberts862)
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Yeah, I hear you on borate. It’s one of those things that sounds better in theory than it works out in practice—at least for your average window sill. If water’s still getting in, no chemical is gonna save you for long. I see people spend a bunch on fancy treatments, but if the flashing’s bad or the caulk is cracked, you’re just putting a hat on a leaky roof and hoping for the best.

The biggest game changer I’ve seen is just paying attention to where the water’s coming from in the first place. Sometimes it’s as simple as a gutter that drips right above the window, or a shrub holding moisture against the wood. I fixed a spot on my own place where the morning dew never dried out because a bush was hugging the sill all day. Trimmed it back and suddenly, no more soft wood.

Epoxy’s solid for spot repairs, but yeah, if you’re patching the same place every couple years, there’s a bigger issue. I’ve even seen folks try to “build up” rotten sills with layers of filler, but that just traps more water underneath. Not a fan.

I’m also a sucker for a good storm window. Not the prettiest, but they do double duty—keep water off and add a layer of insulation. Not everyone loves the look, but I’ll take ugly over rotten any day.

One last thing: don’t underestimate how much difference a tiny awning or drip edge can make. Even a bit of metal flashing above the window can send most of the rain somewhere else. Not glamorous, but it works.

Funny how the boring stuff—like keeping things dry in the first place—usually ends up being the most important.


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bellageocacher
Posts: 11
(@bellageocacher)
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if the flashing’s bad or the caulk is cracked, you’re just putting a hat on a leaky roof and hoping for the best.

Couldn’t agree more. I used to obsess over fancy wood preservatives, but fixing the gutter above my kitchen window did more than any treatment ever did. Sometimes it really is just about keeping water out—basic, but it works. Storm windows are underrated too, even if they’re not winning any beauty contests.


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Posts: 18
(@gamerdev88)
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That’s the truth—keeping water out is half the battle. My old place had original windows from the ‘40s, and I swear, every time I fixed a bit of trim or re-caulked, I’d find some new way water was sneaking in. I’ve never used storm windows myself, but I do repaint every couple years, even if it’s just the sills. Ever tried those rain diverters above windows? I’m tempted, but not sure if they actually help or just look odd.


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spirituality_storm
Posts: 10
(@spirituality_storm)
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I’ve never used storm windows myself, but I do repaint every couple years, even if it’s just the sills.

I get what you mean about the constant hunt for leaks—old windows are sneaky. But I have to say, storm windows made a bigger difference for me than repainting every couple years. They’re not the prettiest, but they cut drafts and keep rain off the sills way better than just paint. As for rain diverters, I tried one above my kitchen window and honestly, it helped a bit, but looked awkward and collected leaves. Have you checked your flashing? Sometimes that’s a hidden culprit people overlook.


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eric_carpenter
Posts: 7
(@eric_carpenter)
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Have you checked your flashing? Sometimes that’s a hidden culprit people overlook.

That’s a good call—flashing is one of those things I ignored for years and then realized it was half the problem. I’m with you on storm windows being a bit ugly, but honestly, they’ve saved my bacon in winter. Still, I totally get repainting as a ritual—nothing like fresh paint to make you *feel* like you’re winning against rot, even if water’s sneaking in elsewhere. Keep at it, those old windows are stubborn but worth saving.


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Posts: 6
(@jsage48)
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nothing like fresh paint to make you *feel* like you’re winning against rot, even if water’s sneaking in elsewhere

Funny you say that—I've repainted more times than I care to admit, only to find soft spots creeping back a year later. Ever tried those epoxy consolidants? I used one last spring, but honestly, I'm not convinced they're more than a temporary fix. Anyone actually had long-term luck with them, or is it just delaying the inevitable?


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