the real breakthrough was adding storm windows—kind of old-school, but it keeps most of the rain off the originals.
Storm windows really do make a difference, especially for older houses. I’ve found that even with good caulk and paint, water just finds a way in over time. Personally, I swear by regular inspections—catching soft spots or cracks early is way less hassle than dealing with full-on rot later. I’m in a pretty damp area, so ventilation’s tricky...cracking windows just invites more moisture some days. For me, a dehumidifier nearby worked better than leaving things open. Not pretty, but it helps keep the old sashes solid.
You’re right about storm windows being a game-changer for old wood windows. They’re not exactly glamorous, but they do a solid job of keeping the worst of the weather off the originals. I see a lot of folks get tripped up by thinking paint and caulk are a one-and-done solution. Truth is, even the best paint job eventually cracks or peels, and water’s sneaky—it’ll find a way in if there’s any weakness.
I’m with you on regular inspections. I’ve had customers who wait until they see actual mushrooms growing out of their sills before calling for help...by then, it’s usually too late for an easy fix. For those in damp climates, ventilation gets tricky, like you said. I’ve seen some people try to “air things out” and just end up making it worse.
Dehumidifiers are underrated. Not pretty, not cheap to run, but if you’re dealing with constant moisture, they can save you a ton of hassle (and money) down the line. One thing I’ll add: if you ever have to reglaze your sashes, use a good linseed oil putty—modern stuff doesn’t always hold up as well. Old-school sometimes wins.
I’ve run into a fair number of sills that looked fine on the surface, but once I started poking around, the rot was hiding just under the paint. It’s wild how quickly moisture sneaks in—especially on north-facing windows that never really dry out. I’ve found that a little overhang or drip cap above the window can make a surprising difference, especially if you’re dealing with wind-driven rain. Not everyone wants to mess with the look of their house, but in my experience, it’s a lot less hassle than a full sill rebuild down the line.
That’s exactly it—most folks don’t realize just how sneaky water can be. I’ve had to dig out “hidden” rot on two different houses now, both times thinking the sills were solid until I pressed a screwdriver in and it went straight through. Paint hides a lot, but it doesn’t stop the problem.
I’m with you on the drip caps. They’re not the prettiest thing sometimes, but they absolutely buy you time. Personally, I’d rather deal with a slightly clunky look than have to cut out and patch big chunks of rotten wood. I tried one of those clear acrylic drip edges on my back window—didn’t change the look much, but it kept the water off. Not perfect, but better than nothing.
The thing I’m still wrestling with is whether it’s worth using epoxy fillers when you find a small soft spot, or if it’s smarter to just replace the whole section of sill. I’ve patched before, but sometimes the rot spreads further than you think. Anyone here have luck with those two-part wood epoxies over the long haul, or is it just a Band-Aid?
Also—how often are you all repainting? I’ve heard some folks swear by annual touch-ups, but that seems like overkill unless you’ve got crazy weather. Curious if there’s a sweet spot for maintenance that actually works, or if it just comes down to luck and vigilance.
The thing I’m still wrestling with is whether it’s worth using epoxy fillers when you find a small soft spot, or if it’s smarter to just replace the whole section of sill.
I hear you on the epoxies—I've used the two-part stuff a couple times, and it held up for maybe three years before the patch started to crack. For small spots, it buys time, but if you can see daylight through the rot, I’d just replace the section.
About repainting, I usually do touch-ups every 2-3 years unless I spot peeling earlier. Seems like prep is half the battle—scraping back to bare wood and priming really helps. Has anyone tried those newer “liquid flashing” sealers before painting? Wondering if they’re worth it or just hype.
- Epoxy’s kind of like duct tape for rot—good in a pinch, but you’ll end up circling back to it every few years. I’ve patched a couple window sills and, sure enough, the “permanent fix” wasn’t so permanent. If the screwdriver sinks in more than a quarter inch, I just swap out the wood and save myself the drama later.
- As for liquid flashing, I tried the Sika stuff last summer out of curiosity. Goes on like pudding, dries like rubber. Not magic, but it did seem to keep the paint from peeling where I used it. That said, it’s not cheap, and you still have to do all the scraping and sanding first... no shortcuts there.
- Prep is 90% of the battle. I’ve gotten lazier with age, but every time I skip steps, I regret it when the paint starts bubbling again.
- One trick I picked up: after priming, hit the end grain with extra sealer. It’s always the first place to go mushy. Learned that the hard way on my old porch windows.
- If you find something that actually keeps rot away for good, let me know. I’ll buy stock.
Funny, I thought epoxy was the magic bullet too until I chased the same patch job twice in five years. I’ve started using wood hardener before filler, but honestly, if the rot’s deep, it just feels like putting lipstick on a pig. I do like the end grain tip—lost a whole sash corner to mush because I skipped sealing it once. One thing I tried last fall was back-priming the new wood before installing. Not sure if it’ll last, but it made me feel like I was outsmarting the rain for once.