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Finally got those dingy window frames looking new again—anyone else have a cleaning win?

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Posts: 8
(@secho32)
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I’ve run into that chalky stuff on my old aluminum sliders out front, and honestly, nothing keeps it away for long. Baking soda’s okay for spot cleaning, but I agree—if you scrub too much, it’ll dull the finish. What’s worked best for me is a gentle rub with a vinegar-water mix, then a quick rinse and dry. Sometimes I’ll go over it with a tiny bit of car wax to slow the buildup, but it’s not a miracle solution. Honestly, I think some of it’s just the metal reacting to weather over time.


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kennethdancer
Posts: 10
(@kennethdancer)
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That chalky buildup is the bane of my existence every spring. I’ve got 70s-era aluminum frames on the back porch, and no matter what I do, that white powdery stuff creeps back. I tried the baking soda trick too, but like you said, it’s easy to overdo it and end up with a patchy, dull look.

Funny enough, I had decent luck with a bit of Bar Keeper’s Friend diluted in water—just real light pressure with a soft rag. It didn’t totally stop the haze from coming back, but it looked decent for a couple months. The car wax idea is clever... I’ve only ever used a silicone spray, which helped the sliders move smoother, but didn’t do much for the finish.

Honestly, I think once the oxidation sets in, you’re just playing defense. At this point, I’ve accepted that “like new” is a moving target for my windows. At least they open without sticking now, which feels like a win in itself.


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rphillips68
Posts: 8
(@rphillips68)
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Yeah, that chalky stuff is relentless. I’ve tried a bunch of things too—vinegar, commercial cleaners, even toothpaste once (don’t recommend, way too much scrubbing). I agree, once the oxidation’s there, it’s just about managing it. The only thing that slowed it down for me was buffing on a thin layer of paste wax after cleaning. Not perfect, but it held up better than silicone spray. At this point, I just aim for “not embarrassing.” If the windows work and don’t look awful from ten feet away, I call it good enough.


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Posts: 5
(@lindat85)
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That chalky oxidation is the bane of my existence, honestly. I’ve also been through the whole arsenal—vinegar, baking soda, even tried that “magic eraser” thing once. Didn’t do much except wear down my patience. Paste wax is an interesting idea though; I’ve mostly just stuck with a mild abrasive and then called it a day. I tried silicone spray once and it just made everything look greasy without really helping.

I get what you mean about lowering standards... At a certain point, if the frames aren’t blindingly white but also not actively embarrassing, that’s a win in my book. My house is from the late ‘70s so those frames have seen some things. I did have a brief run with car polish (the kind for headlights), and it actually helped for a while but didn’t last through the winter.

If someone ever invents a permanent fix for that chalky mess, they deserve a medal—or at least free window cleaner for life.


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Posts: 9
(@streamer342518)
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I did have a brief run with car polish (the kind for headlights), and it actually helped for a while but didn’t last through the winter.

I’ve wondered about car polish! I used a plastic restorer (the stuff for faded car trim) on my back door frame, and it looked great for maybe two months, then the chalkiness started creeping back in. I’m guessing UV just eats through anything not specifically made for outdoor plastics.

Has anyone tried those marine-grade protectants? Some boat forums swear by them for sun-beaten fiberglass and vinyl, but I’m not sure if it’d work on the weird plastic they used in ‘70s window frames. I’m a little wary of slathering on anything too oily, since I had the same experience with silicone—just a greasy mess and more dust sticking to it.

At this point, I’m basically spot-treating with a mild abrasive and sealing with whatever’s handy. Not ideal, but like you said, if it’s not an eyesore, I’ll take it. Still holding out hope for some miracle product that doesn’t cost more than a new window.


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Posts: 3
(@michaelw70)
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- Marine protectants are solid on fiberglass and vinyl, but I’ve seen mixed results on old PVC or ABS window frames.
-

“chalkiness started creeping back in”
— that’s the classic sign of UV breakdown, especially with ‘70s plastics.
- I’ve had clients try 303 Aerospace Protectant, but it needs regular reapplication, especially in direct sun.
- Anything oily attracts dust, like you said. I’d skip silicone sprays for sure.
- Honestly, sometimes a light sanding and exterior-rated paint is the only thing that holds up long-term. Not the quick fix, but it’s outlasted any “miracle” product I’ve seen.


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drake_diver
Posts: 16
(@drake_diver)
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I tried that 303 stuff on my old sunroom frames last summer—looked good for maybe a month, then the chalky mess came right back. Ended up sanding and painting too, even though I was hoping to avoid the work. Definitely not a quick fix, but it actually stayed nice through winter. Anything else just seems to wash off or get sticky in the heat.


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Posts: 7
(@carolrebel469)
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I actually tried skipping the sanding part on my back porch frames and just used a heavy-duty cleaner plus a vinyl restorer—honestly, it held up better than I expected, but not perfect. The chalky stuff was less obvious for a couple months, but it did creep back. I’m still not convinced painting’s the only way, though. Maybe it depends on how much sun your frames get? Mine are mostly shaded, so maybe that’s why the quick fix lasted a bit longer. I keep wondering if there’s some kind of sealant that could lock it in without all the prep work...


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juliecampbell561
Posts: 14
(@juliecampbell561)
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- Skipping sanding can work short-term, but that chalky oxidation layer is stubborn. In my experience, if you don’t remove it, anything you put on top (restorer, sealant, even paint) just sits on the surface and eventually peels or fades.
- Sun exposure definitely speeds up the breakdown, but even shaded frames get hit by moisture and temperature swings.
- I’ve tried a few sealants—some labeled for vinyl, some just general-purpose. They look good for a few weeks, but once the old surface starts to flake underneath, the sealant goes with it.
- Honestly, a quick scuff with a sanding sponge before cleaning makes a bigger difference than most folks expect. Not fun, but it’s the only thing I’ve found that really keeps the finish looking fresh for more than a season.
- If you’re set on skipping the sanding, maybe try a marine-grade UV protectant? Not a miracle fix, but it buys you a bit more time before the chalkiness returns.


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spirituality812
Posts: 14
(@spirituality812)
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I tried to cheat the sanding step last fall—just cleaned and slapped on some protectant. Looked decent for a month, then the chalky stuff came right back. Lesson learned: shortcuts aren’t always worth it, even if sanding is a pain.


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