Has anyone tried those rain diverters above the trim? Worth the hassle, or just another maintenance headache?
I put up rain diverters last fall, mostly because my windows were getting that gross drip stain look on the outside. Honestly, it helped more than I expected with keeping the sills dry. The install was kinda awkward (had to borrow a taller ladder), but once they were up, I haven’t had to mess with them much. I’d say they’re less hassle than having to recaulk every year, at least for me. Just make sure you keep the gutters clear... otherwise water just finds another way in.
Just make sure you keep the gutters clear... otherwise water just finds another way in.
That’s spot on. Even the best diverter won’t save your trim if your gutters are packed with leaves. I put up aluminum diverters above a couple of my older windows a year ago—mostly to stop that ugly streaking down the siding and sills. The install wasn’t exactly a walk in the park (awkward angles, lots of measuring twice), but once they’re up, it’s pretty much set-and-forget.
I do think they’re less hassle than constant caulking, especially if you live somewhere with heavy rain or snow melt. Only thing I’d add—double check how they’re sealed against the siding. I had one spot where water started sneaking behind because I rushed it. Learned my lesson: take your time with the flashing tape.
It’s not a miracle fix, but for me, it cut down on repainting and scraping by a lot. Worth it if you’re already up there cleaning gutters anyway.
- Gutters really are the first line of defense. I’ll admit, I skipped a fall cleaning once and ended up with water dripping INSIDE my kitchen window frame. Not fun. Now I set reminders on my phone for spring and late fall—takes maybe 30 minutes but saves me hours down the road.
- Aluminum diverters: I’ve used them too. Agree, not the easiest to install if your house isn’t perfectly square (mine’s 1940s, nothing is straight). But once they’re up, they do their job. I second the flashing tape tip—mess that up and you’re basically funneling water behind your siding.
- For anyone with wood windows, I’d add: check your paint or stain every year. Even a tiny chip can let water in and start rot. I keep a little can of touch-up paint handy and just do a quick scan when I’m out mowing or whatever.
- Caulking is a pain, but sometimes it’s the only way to deal with those weird gaps. I’ve tried “paintable” caulk around my sills and it holds up better than the clear stuff, at least for me.
- One thing I learned the hard way: don’t forget about the window sills themselves. If they slope toward the house (even a little), water will pool right at the joint. I shimmed a couple of mine so they actually shed water away—made a big difference.
- Not sure diverters cut down on repainting for everyone, but for me, it’s mostly about keeping the siding clean. Still have to scrape and paint every few years, but at least it’s not as bad as before.
- Last bit—if you’re already up there, check your soffits and fascia for soft spots. Found a little rot last year that would’ve turned into a big headache if I’d ignored it.
All in all, nothing’s truly “set and forget,” but a little attention here and there keeps things from getting out of hand.
Couldn’t agree more about gutters—people seriously underestimate how much damage a clogged one can do. I’ve seen window frames rotted out in less than two years just from water sneaking in where it shouldn’t. One thing I’ll add: don’t trust that old caulk will last forever, especially on south-facing windows. UV just eats it up. I usually tell folks, if you can push your thumbnail into the caulk and it leaves a dent, it’s probably time to redo it. And yeah, those diverters are a pain to line up on older houses, but if you skip the flashing tape or try to cheap out, you’re just inviting trouble down the road.
if you can push your thumbnail into the caulk and it leaves a dent, it’s probably time to redo it.
I get where you’re coming from, but I’ve had south-facing windows where the caulk still felt soft for years—never leaked once. I think sometimes people re-caulk too soon and end up layering over old stuff, which just makes a mess later. What’s worked better for me is checking for actual gaps or cracks first, especially at the corners, before deciding to replace. Saves time (and tubes of caulk) in the long run.
As for diverters, yeah they’re tricky on older houses, but I’ve noticed that a little patience with the fit goes further than piling on extra tape. Just my two cents...
What’s worked better for me is checking for actual gaps or cracks first, especially at the corners, before deciding to replace.
Can’t argue with that—seen too many folks slap new caulk over old because it “felt weird.” I’ve learned the hard way that chasing every soft spot is just asking for a lumpy mess and wasted effort. Corners and joints always tell the real story. As for diverters, patience beats tape every time... nothing like trying to peel off three generations of sticky residue from 1978.
That sticky tape mess is all too familiar... I once spent nearly an hour scraping old residue off a bathroom window because someone kept layering on new “fixes” without cleaning up first. Ever since, I just take a flashlight and check the corners like you said—saves a ton of hassle down the line. Funny how the simplest habits make the biggest difference.
Totally agree—those little routines pay off big time. I’m always amazed how much gunk collects in window tracks too, especially if you skip a season. Do you think those stick-on plastic insulation kits are worth the hassle, or do they just add more residue headaches? I’ve had mixed results.
I get what you’re saying about the stick-on insulation kits—some people swear by them, but I’ve had mixed luck too. The first winter I tried one, it did help with drafts, but peeling that plastic off in the spring left a sticky mess on the frame. I spent more time scraping off residue than I did putting the kit up in the first place. Maybe it’s just my old windows (1970s aluminum sliders—super charming, not so energy efficient), but it felt like a trade-off: save a few bucks on heating, then spend hours cleaning.
Honestly, I’ve started leaning more toward using those thick, old-school draft snakes or even rolled-up towels along the sills. Not as high-tech, but no adhesive, and I can toss them in the wash. For me, there’s less hassle and zero risk of damaging the finish.
I will say, if you’re in a super cold area and have single-pane glass, the plastic kits do make a noticeable difference with condensation and chill. But for milder climates or newer windows, maybe not worth the sticky aftermath. I’m always curious if there’s some magic trick to getting that tape off cleanly—maybe hair dryer heat? Never worked for me, but I’ve heard others have better luck.
One thing I wish I’d done earlier is just add some weatherstripping to the movable parts. It’s cheap, easy, and doesn’t leave goop everywhere. Kind of boring compared to shrink-wrapping your whole window, but sometimes boring just works.
Anyway, I’m not totally anti-plastic kit, but for me it’s been more hassle than help. Maybe depends on your window type or how much draft you’re fighting.
I hear you on the sticky tape struggle. Those insulation kits can be a real pain to remove, especially on older aluminum frames—honestly, I’ve seen more than a few windows with permanent gunk lines after folks tried to peel them off. Heat guns or hair dryers sometimes help, but it’s hit or miss and you risk warping the frame if you overdo it. I’ve even seen people try rubbing alcohol or Goo Gone, but then you’re dealing with fumes and possible discoloration.
Draft snakes and towels are underrated, honestly. They don’t look fancy, but they’re gentle on the window and easy to swap out. If you ever want a step up from towels, there are some decent foam or silicone draft blockers that wedge in without adhesives—way less mess.
Weatherstripping is the real MVP though, especially for old sliders. It’s not glamorous, but it’s cheap and makes a difference. Just make sure to clean the track before applying or it won’t stick long-term. Sometimes “boring” is exactly what you need to keep those windows from aging faster than they should.