Haha, duct tape saves the day again...been there myself. A couple quick thoughts from my own vinyl window adventures:
- Skip the tripod entirely—too easy to knock over. I usually just stack scrap lumber or even books (like your bookshelf trick) to get the laser at the right height.
- Marking everything clearly beforehand helps a ton. Pencil lines are your friend.
- Don't underestimate shims. Seriously, buy extra packs. Nothing worse than running out mid-install.
- And yeah, vinyl windows can be picky. Double-checking level and plumb as you go saves headaches later.
Honestly, sometimes fancy tools just add unnecessary hassle. Simple and sturdy usually beats complicated and wobbly any day.
Totally agree about marking clearly, but honestly, I wouldn't ditch the tripod completely. Had my laser balanced on scrap wood once, bumped it slightly, and spent forever realigning everything... Tripods aren't perfect, but they've saved me some sanity.
Fair point on the tripod, but honestly, I've found a sturdy clamp mount way less hassle:
- Attaches securely to studs or framing—no accidental bumps.
- Takes up less space, especially handy in tight spots.
- Quick adjustments without fiddling with tripod legs.
Tripods have their place, yeah... but for window installs, clamps save me headaches.
"Quick adjustments without fiddling with tripod legs."
Clamp mounts are handy, sure, but how do you handle leveling when the framing isn't perfectly plumb? I've had clamps slip a bit on uneven studs... curious how you tackle that.
I've messed around with clamp mounts a bit, and honestly, leveling can be a headache if the studs aren't cooperating. Usually end up shimming it a touch or just biting the bullet and tweaking the tripod legs anyway... kinda defeats the purpose, haha.
"Usually end up shimming it a touch or just biting the bullet and tweaking the tripod legs anyway... kinda defeats the purpose, haha."
Yeah, been there myself. Curious though, have you tried using composite shims instead of wood? They don't compress as much over time—might save you some headache down the road.
Composite shims are definitely the way to go, especially if you're dealing with moisture-prone areas. Learned that lesson the hard way after a job where wooden shims swelled up from humidity and threw everything off kilter. Had to go back in and redo half the alignment—talk about frustrating. Have you found any particular brand or type of composite shim that holds up better than others? Always looking for something reliable to toss in the toolbox.
"Have you found any particular brand or type of composite shim that holds up better than others?"
I've had good luck with Nelson composite shims—they're pretty consistent and don't snap as easily as some cheaper ones I've tried. Had a similar nightmare with wooden shims swelling up on a bathroom window install... never again. Also, quick tip: keep a sharp utility knife handy, composites can be tougher to trim cleanly than wood. Saves a lot of frustration when you're trying to get things just right.
Nelson shims are decent, but I've actually had better luck with Timberwolf composite shims. They're a bit pricier, but honestly worth it. Nelsons are pretty good, though I found they sometimes splintered a little when trimming, especially if your blade isn't super sharp.
"keep a sharp utility knife handy, composites can be tougher to trim cleanly than wood."
Definitely second this advice. I'd add—make sure you're scoring them first before you try to snap or fully cut through. Saves you from that awkward moment when you're wrestling with a stubborn shim and questioning your life choices, lol.
And yeah, wooden shims in bathrooms... been there, done that, got the swollen, warped t-shirt. Learned my lesson the hard way.
Composite shims are definitely tougher to cut, but once you get the hang of scoring first, it's not too bad. Did you find Timberwolf easier to trim than Nelsons overall, or just less likely to splinter? I've been debating if they're worth the extra cost...