For those who have done it already: how long did you have to wait between signing a contract and getting the windows installed? I'm trying to plan around some other projects and wondering what kind of timeline to expect.
I know supply chain issues were a thing in the last couple years, though maybe it's better now. One company I spoke with said about 8-10 weeks lead time for the windows to be made (they order custom-sized windows for your house). Does that sound about right for the Tampa Bay area? And once they came in, how quickly did the actual installation happen? Did you have to live with boarded-up openings at any point or do they do it window-by-window the same day?
Just a bit nervous about having big holes in the house during hurricane season if there are delays 😬.
@jjones18 – good question about timelines. I just went through this in 2024 and can share how it went for us. Our timeline was: signed contract in early March, windows were delivered to the installer by mid May (so about 10 weeks), and installation started immediately after they had them all. We were scheduled for a 2-day install for 15 windows and 1 slider. They did about half on day one and half on day two.
They definitely won’t leave your house with open holes overnight. The crew made sure to only remove what they could replace the same day. So day one, they took out and installed like 8 windows, sealed them up, and cleaned up before leaving. Day two they did the rest plus the sliding door. The only time we had a "hole" was the few minutes between them pulling out the old window and fitting the new one in that opening, which they did one by one. If a surprise rain shower pops up (Florida life), they would just pause or do one at a time quickly. In our case, weather was fine and it was not an issue.
I think 8-10 weeks lead time is pretty typical right now if you’re ordering standard colors and styles. If you special order something like a custom exterior color or odd shape, it might take longer. After the install, you might wait another week or two for the final inspection scheduling, but that doesn’t affect your living situation, it’s just an appointment for the inspector to come check things.
One tip: if you're concerned about hurricane season, try to schedule the actual installation for outside of peak season if you can (like get the order in so install happens in spring or early summer). But even if it falls in say August, it's usually fine. Worst case, if a storm was literally coming on your install day, they’d postpone a few days. They won't leave you mid-project if a hurricane was approaching, of course.
So overall, plan on maybe 2-3 months from signing to completion in normal circumstances. And definitely do it when you have some flexibility in your schedule to be home during install days if possible, just to oversee and be available.
Really appreciating all the insights here. My situation's a little different: my home is on the coast (Redington Shores in Pinellas, built 2010). We haven't pulled the trigger yet, but we know we'll need to replace our windows in the next year or two, especially to get those insurance benefits and because the salty air has corroded some of the old window hardware.
One thing I'm curious about: do coastal homes like mine need any special window ratings beyond just "impact"? I heard that some areas require windows to meet certain wind speed ratings (like up to 150-160 mph). Our neighborhood is literally across the street from the Gulf. When I mentioned window replacement to a neighbor, they said make sure to get windows with the higher design pressure (DP) ratings due to how exposed we are.
Has anyone in a similar coastal spot done this recently? Are the standard impact windows (like PGT or CWS) okay for that, or did you have to get something extra like "HVHZ-rated" windows (I know Miami-Dade has special requirements)? I assume Pinellas follows the Florida Building Code for non-HVHZ, but being on the water is making me double-check.
Also, any extra steps for permitting in a coastal area? I’m not in a historic district or anything, but we are in a flood zone AE. Not sure if that affects window permits.
I plan to get quotes soon; just trying to gather knowledge so I ask the right questions. If anyone has insight on coastal requirements or recommendations for installers who do a lot of beach homes, I'd love to hear it!
@ejackson55 I’m in Indian Rocks Beach (Pinellas coast) and just replaced my windows last year. My house is older (90s build) but I think the requirements would be similar for your 2010 build, since code only got stricter. Yes, being on the coast means the windows we installed had to meet higher wind loads, but any impact window that's rated for Zone 4 (which covers much of Pinellas) should suffice. The key is making sure the product you choose has a Florida Product Approval and is rated for the design pressure (DP) needed for your exposure.
For example, the PGT Winguard windows we got have various models; the ones we used were rated for something like DP50 or DP60. Our permit paperwork had the specific product approval numbers. The contractor actually knew exactly what was needed when I told them my address; they said “we’ll use the higher DP rated frames and laminated glass that meets Miami-Dade specs” even though we’re not in Miami, just because we get similar wind gusts being on the Gulf. It didn't really cost more to get that version; it's just which screws and installation method they used and maybe slightly thicker glass.
We did get stainless steel hardware and fasteners due to the salt air—make sure to request that if you're coastal, or verify that's standard. Some cheap installs might use regular steel nails/screws which can rust out near the beach. My installers caulked everything with a special silicone sealant that's good for coastal conditions too.
Permitting wise, Pinellas County (and the beach municipalities) just follow FBC guidelines. Our town of Indian Rocks Beach required engineering documents for the windows (the contractor provided the FL Approval docs and installation diagrams). It wasn’t anything extra beyond what they'd normally submit, just that they had to note "Exposure D" (which is the coastal wind exposure category) on the permit form. The inspection was normal.
So bottom line: standard high-quality impact windows from top brands are usually fine, just ensure the installer knows you're coastal so they use the right materials and the product is rated for your wind zone. If you go with a reputable local window company, they'll automatically do this. But it's good that you're asking so you can double-check when reviewing quotes. Maybe ask each company, "Will these windows meet the wind requirements for a home on the beach?" and they should say yes and be able to show the rating.
Hope that helps. And definitely do it – the difference with new impact windows on the beach is huge. No more salt spray coming through tiny cracks, and way quieter inside even when the waves and wind are raging outside.
Quick note on warranties: make sure you understand who to contact if something goes wrong. I replaced all windows in my home in Odessa (Pasco County) in 2022. About a year later, one of the new windows developed a condensation fog between the panes (a seal failure). It was a bummer to see, but I was glad I chose a company that honors their warranty. I called up the installer (who also was the dealer for the window manufacturer) and they handled everything. They ordered a new sash from the manufacturer under warranty and swapped it out for me at no charge. It took a few weeks for the replacement sash to arrive, but the process was relatively painless.
Contrast that with my neighbor, who went with a different company that apparently went out of business a year after her install. She has a window with a similar issue and is now trying to deal directly with the manufacturer, which is slower and more paperwork because the original dealer is gone. She'll probably still get it replaced (the manufacturer of her window has a 20-year glass warranty), but it's more hassle.
So my advice: choose both a good product and a good installer who you expect to be around for a while. Lifetime warranties are only as good as the company backing them. In my case, I got a lifetime warranty on the windows and a 5-year workmanship warranty from the installer. I specifically asked how service is handled and they explained the process if glass breaks or if any seals fail, they take care of coordinating with the manufacturer.
Also check if the warranty is transferable if you sell the house, just in case. Some brands offer one-time transfer to a new owner (sometimes they require a fee to transfer). Might not be a big deal if you plan to stay put, but it's nice to know.
In summary, we've had one hiccup, but because of a solid warranty and company, it was fixed without costing us anything. Things happen, even with top brands, so good after-sales service matters!
For those who've done this, did you notice a big difference in your electric bill or overall comfort? I'm trying to justify the cost in my head. I know hurricane protection is one benefit, but I'm also hoping for energy savings (especially in our brutal summers).
My house is in Valrico (built 2014) and the builder-grade windows we have now are double-pane but I suspect not great quality (we feel a lot of heat through them in afternoons). If we go with high-quality Low-E impact windows, can we realistically expect much lower cooling costs, or is it just a minor improvement?
Basically, I'm wondering if the investment pays back a bit through energy efficiency, or should I treat it purely as an upgrade for safety/peace of mind and home value, and not bank on energy savings?
@zshadow38 Good question. In my case, we did see noticeable energy savings after our window upgrade, but I would call it a long-term payback, not something that will refund your project cost quickly. I'm in Palm Harbor (house built 2007). We replaced original single-pane windows with new impact double-pane Low-E windows in 2021. Those original windows were pretty bad (no tint, not much insulation), so our situation might be more dramatic than yours since you already have double-pane.
Before window replacement, our summer electric bills (with AC set around 75°F) were hitting $250+. After new windows, we saw about a 15-20% reduction in our monthly bills during the hot months. So instead of $250 it might be
200−
200−
210. It’s not like cutting it in half or anything, but that's still significant over time. Part of that could also be that we added some attic insulation around the same time, so not all due to windows, but I believe windows were a big factor because we immediately noticed the house staying cooler in the afternoons. The west-facing rooms were not heating up as much as they used to once we had the Low-E glass and argon-filled panes.
Even in winter (our winters are mild, but it does get into the 40s occasionally), the new windows have less draft. We used to feel cold drafts near some windows - now we don’t.
So yes, there is an energy efficiency benefit. I’d say treat it as a nice bonus rather than the primary justification. The primary reasons are usually storm protection, security, noise reduction, and aesthetics/home value. The energy savings over many years will offset some portion of the cost. If I crunch the numbers, maybe I'm saving a few hundred bucks a year on electricity. Over a decade or two, that adds up, but it's not a quick ROI by itself.
One more thing: if your current windows have no Low-E and you get new ones with Low-E, you'll likely notice your furniture and flooring fading less from UV light. We had noticeable sun-fading on our hardwood floor by the big sliders before; after installing the new glass, it seems to have slowed that down. Harder to quantify, but it's a plus!
In summary, expect some savings and comfort improvements, but the "payback" is gradual. Even without massive energy savings, though, I've been very happy with the upgrade for all the other reasons (storm peace of mind especially).
I'll add an often-overlooked step: if you live in a neighborhood with a homeowners association (HOA), don't forget to check their rules before replacing windows. I'm in a subdivision in Tampa Palms (Hillsborough County), and our HOA required an approval for any window style changes. They wanted to make sure the exterior look remained consistent (frame color, grid pattern, etc).
In our case, we had white frames with colonial grids in the old windows. We wanted to switch to no grids for a cleaner look. The HOA actually was fine with removing grids (turns out lots of neighbors have been doing that), but they required that the frame color remain white (no bronze or other colors visible from the street) to maintain uniformity. We also had to submit the product brochure showing the windows we were going to install, just so they could verify it didn't drastically alter the appearance. It was a pretty quick approval once we turned in the form, but it's something to factor in your timeline. If we had skipped that and just installed, we could've gotten in trouble with the HOA.
Another neighbor in our community did bronze frames and the HOA made them paint the frames white again or replace them, which was a costly mistake for them. So yeah, definitely check any architectural guidelines.
On the permitting front in Hillsborough: the county permit was pulled by our contractor and we didn't have to do much. But the HOA step was on us to handle and prove we had permission. The window company actually asked if we had HOA approval during the quoting process, so that was a helpful reminder.
Just something to keep in mind for those in deed-restricted communities – add HOA approval to your to-do list.
Wow, thanks so much everyone for the detailed responses! This has been incredibly helpful. 😊 Hearing real numbers and experiences from fellow Tampa Bay homeowners is exactly what I needed.
Update from my side: Since my first post, I’ve gotten a couple more quotes in. So far I have:
Karoly Windows & Doors – came out to my house and quoted $12,300 for 10 windows + 1 slider (all impact, vinyl, Low-E). This includes everything. The rep was fantastic – very thorough and zero pressure.
ProTech Windoors – came out next week and gave me an estimate of $13,000 for the same scope. Also very professional.
Local Contractor (non-impact) – A local independent installer estimate was around $7,500 for non-impact windows + slider, and he noted adding accordion shutters would be about $3,000 more, so roughly $10.5k if I go that route for full protection.
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So interestingly, going non-impact + accordion shutters versus full impact is only a couple thousand cheaper in my case ($10.5k vs
12.3k−
12.3k−
13k). Given this, I’m definitely going with impact windows and skipping the shutters entirely. It seems cleaner and less hassle long-term.
Now I’m basically deciding between Karoly and ProTech. Both have similar pricing and both left a good impression. Karoly is a tad lower in price and offered slightly sooner installation scheduling, so I’m leaning that way. Plus, some of you here (looking at you @donaldevans5 and others) have had great experiences with Karoly, which gives me confidence. ProTech also sounds great (@environment_jon and @architecture902 shared good experiences). Honestly, I feel either one would do a good job.
Does anyone see any red flags or have any last-minute advice before I pull the trigger? Otherwise, I think we’re going to go with Karoly and get all impact windows. I’ll definitely let you all know how it goes once they’re installed! This thread has been a lifesaver in making this decision – thank you all again!
Figured I'd add my experience as another data point, especially for those with relatively new homes. My house was built in 2015 in Lutz (Hillsborough/Pasco line) and by 2023 I already had two window seals fail (fogging between panes) and one window that wouldn't stay up (balance broke). The builder-grade windows just didn’t hold up, likely because they were the cheapest available at the time. I limped along with those issues until I finally decided to do a full replacement of all windows this year.
I replaced 11 windows with vinyl double-pane (impact) windows from a local installer. Cost was about $11,800. Honestly, part of me was annoyed I had to do this so soon on a relatively new house, but the difference in quality is night and day. The new windows slide like butter and the latches and hardware feel much sturdier. No more condensation issues either.
I tried to get the builder to address the failing windows when it first started happening (around year 5 or 6 of the house), but of course by then we were out of their standard warranty. The window manufacturer (some no-name brand) technically had a 10-year warranty on the IGU (insulated glass unit), but getting service was nearly impossible. They didn't have a local rep, and I gave up after a lot of runaround. That's when I decided to just spend the money and get better windows that have local support.
So for anyone with a newer home: don't assume your windows are great just because the house is newer. Builders often use mediocre windows. If you notice issues like drafts, fogging, or difficulty operating them, it might be worth upgrading sooner rather than later. It stinks to shell out more money on a newer home, but in my case I'm glad I did it now rather than dealing with incremental problems each year.
On the bright side, I was able to sell a couple of the old windows that were still okay on Facebook Marketplace (somebody wanted them for a shed) and got a tiny bit of money back 😂. And the house feels more "solid" now with the new ones. Just my two cents for others in a similar boat.