Minor tip I got from my installer: after installation, give the caulk a few days to cure before doing any vigorous cleaning or pressure washing around the windows. They told me not to pressure wash the house or spray the windows directly with a hose for about a week. Also, if you plan to paint around the window trim or stucco patches, wait until everything is fully set.
In my case, they had to do some stucco touch-up around a couple of windows. I waited a couple of weeks and then painted those areas to match the house. Came out looking like nothing ever happened.
And yeah, @cars575 mentioned security – I sleep better at night knowing someone can’t just break a window and climb in easily. That laminated glass is tough stuff.
For those who haven’t gone through installation yet, just a heads up: the install process is loud and a bit messy (as expected). They were ripping out old frames, using power saws and drills to anchor new windows, etc. If you work from home (like I do), you might want to plan to work elsewhere or use earplugs 😅 on install days. It’s not unbearable, but definitely noisy. Also a bit of dust will be generated, though a good crew will put up drop cloths and vacuum. I ended up doing a thorough vacuum and dusting after they were done, which took care of it.
Small inconvenience for a day or two, but totally worth the end result. Just something to mentally prepare for so you’re not caught off guard by the commotion during installation.
I have a question regarding CWS (Custom Window Systems) windows. One of the companies I got a quote from uses CWS as their main line. I hadn’t heard much about them before, and when I googled, I saw some mixed feedback (like an old BBB rating that wasn’t great). But I see here @poet45 had CWS installed and seems happy.
Are there others here who have had CWS windows for a while? How are they holding up? Any issues like yellowing vinyl or hardware problems? I know PGT gets a lot of love, but CWS being Florida-based sounds promising too.
Just trying to make sure I won’t regret going with CWS if I choose that quote, since it is a tad cheaper than the PGT quote I have. Any long-term CWS users, please share your thoughts!
@diy_melissa I have CWS (WindPact Plus series) in my home, installed back in 2016, so about 9 years now. I can speak to their long-term performance: overall, I’ve been very satisfied. No yellowing or warping on the vinyl frames (they still look as white as day one). The hardware (locks, cranks on the awning windows, etc.) all still function well. I did have one window where the balance spring got a bit squeaky last year, but a quick spray of silicone lubricant fixed that.
In terms of durability, they’ve been through multiple hurricane seasons, including Irma in 2017 which hit us with strong winds, and they held up fine. No leaks, no glass cracks. I think CWS maybe flew under the radar compared to PGT, but they make a solid product. In fact, a lot of smaller installers like them because the supply chain is a bit less strained (PGT sometimes has longer lead times due to popularity).
That old BBB thing – I recall hearing about it. I think it had to do with some administrative issue or maybe past customer service delays, but personally I’ve not needed to contact them for anything. My installer gave me a direct lifetime warranty and said they’d handle any manufacturer issues.
So, if you’re getting a better deal with CWS, I’d say you shouldn’t be afraid to go with it, provided the installer is good. From my long-term user perspective, CWS impact windows have been excellent.
I know this thread is mostly about windows, but I want to highlight sliding glass doors (if your house has them) since they are part of many Florida homes. I replaced an old single-pane aluminum slider with a new impact slider as part of my project. The difference is huge. The new slider door (mine’s a 3-panel wide one) is heavy as a tank but glides like it’s on ice. It has double-pane laminated glass just like the windows, so it gives the same benefits: noise reduction, insulation, hurricane resistance.
Cost-wise, as some mentioned above, sliders can be pricey. My one door was about $5k by itself, roughly the cost of 4-5 windows. But it’s also a giant opening (like 12 feet wide by 8 feet tall). The install crew actually treated it almost like a separate project - it took a crane to lift the frame into place!
Security on the new slider is also much better: it has a multi-point locking system and a strong frame. We also added a little footbolt for extra security (and to vent it a few inches open but locked). With the old slider, I always had a charlie-bar and still felt it was a weak point.
So if you have an old slider, consider budgeting for that too. It makes a world of difference. The house feels totally sealed up now. No more drafts around the patio door either.
Don’t forget entry doors if they have glass inserts or side-lite windows. Those count as openings too for hurricane protection. In my case, I had a solid front door (no glass) so I didn’t need to replace it for wind mitigation purposes. But my neighbor had to replace his front door because it had a big decorative glass panel that was not impact-rated. He ended up getting a new fiberglass door with impact glass insert.
Just something to keep in mind: when we talk about “all openings” for insurance and storm safety, that includes windows, skylights, glass doors (sliders or French doors), and even those little garage door windows if you have them. If any of those aren’t impact or covered, you don’t get the full insurance credits.
Heh, I went as far as replacing my garage door too with a hurricane-rated one (but that’s a topic for another thread).
Update: Thanks to everyone’s input here, I went ahead and signed a contract to get my windows done! 🎉 I ended up choosing one of the recommended local companies (yep, one of the two frequently named here). They gave me a fair price and I felt good about their track record.
My project is scheduled for next month. I’ll be getting 10 PGT impact windows installed. I am both excited and a little nervous, but after reading all these experiences, I feel prepared. I’ve already informed my home insurance agent that I’ll have documentation for a discount soon, and they confirmed I should see a nice reduction once the windows are in.
I also took @dwhite46’s advice and managed to get a small discount by planning the install in the slow season. And made sure to tell my boss I might take a day off or work off-site during the loud install days (thanks @hollysnowboarder for that tip).
I’ll report back once it’s done to let you all know how it went. But just wanted to say thanks – this thread turned what felt like an overwhelming project into something much more approachable. 🙂
I’m late to this thread, but wow, what a treasure trove of info. Big thanks to everyone who contributed. This is the kind of community knowledge sharing that saves people money and headaches. I’ve learned more here than I did in weeks of my own research.
I’ll be joining the ranks of new window owners soon, armed with all these tips (and probably going with one of the trusted companies mentioned throughout). See you on the other side of the installation! 💪
I actually attempted a DIY replacement on one window (just a small bathroom window) before committing to a full professional job. Let me tell you, after that one window, I was more than happy to pay the pros for the rest! 😂
I’m pretty handy, but the level of precision and the heavy lifting involved made me appreciate window installers so much more. I had to make sure it was perfectly squared, shimmed, and sealed. And I was constantly worried I’d mess up the water proofing. It took me an entire weekend for one tiny window.
In Florida, you technically need a permit even if you DIY (if you’re the homeowner you can pull a homeowner permit in some cases), but I ended up not bothering for that one window – I know, not ideal. When I hired the company to do the remaining windows, I actually had them recheck my DIY one to ensure it was up to snuff (I fessed up to doing it myself). They graciously adjusted the caulking on it and added a couple screws to secure it better, no charge.
Lesson learned: it’s worth hiring licensed pros for this kind of project. I got it out of my system with that one window experiment. If anyone is thinking of DIY to save money, be aware of the challenges, especially with impact windows which are heavy and must be installed to meet code.
One more code-related tidbit for anyone doing this: certain windows may need to be tempered even if they’re not near the coast or anything. By code, any window that is in a bathroom near a tub/shower, or very close to the floor/doors, has to use tempered glass (for safety, so it doesn’t shard if broken). Impact glass is typically laminated which inherently meets safety requirements, but if someone were doing non-impact windows in those spots, they’d need tempering.
In my project, the bathroom window had to be tempered glass (non-impact) plus we had shutters for it to count as protected. My installer explained all that. Just pointing out – a good contractor will handle these details, but I found it interesting learning about these little code rules.
Also, for those replacing very old windows (like jalousie windows from mid-century homes), expect some extra carpentry work. A friend of mine had a 1960s house and when they put in new windows, they had to build out the window bucks a bit to fit standard sizes, and repair some old water damage. It added cost, but in the end it was all fixed and new.