@aaronl87 Great question. I researched this a lot when I was picking windows. In Florida, the big players for vinyl/impact are indeed PGT, CWS, Simonton, Stanek, and some others like Alside for non-impact. PGT is extremely popular here (their WinGuard line for impact windows is well-regarded). CWS (based in Ocala, FL) also makes solid windows specifically for Florida climate. Simonton is a national brand, quite decent; I believe Karoly Windows often sells Simonton windows for non-impact jobs and PGT for impact, if I'm not mistaken.
I think most of the top brands will perform well if installed correctly. The differences might be in things like lock mechanism design, frame design, and slight differences in efficiency ratings. Some brands offer nicer hardware or easier-to-clean features (tilt sash, etc.). For example, I chose PGT WinGuard because I wanted impact windows and many local installers recommended them for reliability and parts availability.
Renewal by Andersen (Fibrex composite frames) are good windows too, but way overpriced for what you get in my opinion. And in Florida, vinyl has proven itself over decades now; the old concerns about vinyl in heat have been addressed with UV inhibitors and such.
NewSouth makes windows in Tampa specifically for Florida climate. I actually liked their product when I saw it in the showroom – they looked sturdy and had good features. But again, their pricing and sales tactics turned me off. If their price was competitive I would have considered them more seriously.
My advice: choose a reputable installer first, then go with one of the quality brands they offer. A good installer isn't going to use junk windows because they don't want call-backs and unhappy customers. Avoid really cheap no-name windows that might be on the market. Stick to those known brands (PGT, CWS, Simonton, etc.) and you'll be fine. And make sure you get the proper glass type (impact vs non, Low-E, etc.) for your needs.
Another tip for everyone: make sure to get everything in writing in your contract or quote. This sounds obvious, but in the flurry of quotes and technical details it's easy to overlook. For instance, our contract specified:
The exact window brands and series (so we got the right product).
That the installer would do any necessary interior trim and exterior stucco repairs.
Removal and disposal of old windows.
Permit acquisition and closing out the permit.
The warranty details (ours said lifetime frame/10-year glass, and 2-year labor).
Having this all spelled out saved me when a small issue came up: Two of our new windows initially came without the expected tint level (we had ordered a gray tint Low-E for a couple west windows). I noticed right away and pointed to the contract which listed the tint option. The installer acknowledged the mistake and ordered replacement sashes with the correct glass at no extra cost, though I had to wait a couple more weeks for those to arrive. If it wasn't in writing, that could have been a harder argument.
Also, check if they include things like re-installing your blinds or filling nail holes on trim, etc. Many don't, but some full-service ones might. Mine didn't, so we had to re-hang our blinds ourselves (no biggie) and do a little painting.
Last thing – ask what happens if something unexpected is found, like rot or structural damage. Most contracts have a clause that they will charge extra for that (understandable). Just know what their rate is or how they'd handle it. In our case, they told us up front: any wood rot repair would be $85/hour plus materials. We ended up not needing it, but it was good to know.
@nancyanderson915 Excellent points. Reading the contract thoroughly is so important. I want to underscore the "unexpected issues" part: our neighbors had their windows done and discovered termite damage in one window frame once the old window was out. The company stopped work on that opening and had to get approval to replace a section of wood. It cost an extra ~$600 and delayed that window's install by a week. It was in the contract that wood repair was outside the initial scope.
The neighbors weren't thrilled about the surprise cost, but it was indeed in the fine print. So yeah, examine those terms. It's easy to gloss over them when you're excited to sign and get the project going.
I'd also add: check the payment schedule in the contract. Most will ask for something like 10% or a set amount down, then maybe half when windows are delivered, then final upon completion. Avoid any that ask for a huge chunk (like 50%) upfront just to order windows – it's not uncommon to deposit for ordering, but it should be reasonable. We paid 10% to sign, 40% when the windows arrived at the installer’s warehouse, and 50% after installation passed inspection. That felt fair and kept everyone accountable.
Something a friend advised me on, which worked out: Try to schedule your window installation in the cooler/drier months if you can (late fall, winter). We did ours in November and lucked out with great weather. Not only was it more comfortable for the installers (and for us having open holes in the house), but they also had fewer weather delays. Summer in Tampa means daily thunderstorms; if it rains, they often have to pause work or not leave openings uncovered. A neighbor of mine had an install in July and a thunderstorm blew in, so they had to scramble to cover openings with plywood and resume the next day.
Also, during hurricane season, if there's an active storm threat, some companies won't start a project because you can't have missing windows if a storm is coming. So that could postpone things too.
Of course, timing isn't always within our control – you might sign and then have to wait for manufacturing anyway. But if you have the flexibility, consider doing it in the winter. Aside from weather, I've heard sometimes demand is a bit lower in winter, so you might even get things done faster or get more attentive scheduling. In any case, avoid the peak of summer if possible.
Our November install (in Pasco) went smoothly, and we had cool air coming in which was actually nice (we just wore sweaters for a day, haha).
One aspect not mentioned yet: window style choices related to building code. We have a couple of bedrooms with relatively small window openings. The original windows were single-hung (slide up) which barely met egress (escape) size. When we did the replacements, the window rep suggested we change those two small ones to casement windows (the kind that crank open like a door) to make sure we meet egress requirements. Because casements open fully, they allow a larger clear opening than a single-hung of the same size.
It did cost a bit more for those casements compared to single-hungs (and they look slightly different from the other windows, but not too noticeable since they're on the side of the house). I'm glad we did it because the inspector did check egress on the bedroom windows. If we'd kept single-hung style, the new frame might have reduced the opening just enough to fail egress requirements.
So, if you have any bedrooms with small windows, keep that in mind. The company should know this and advise you, but it doesn't hurt to ask. Aside from casements, sometimes awning windows (hinged at top) can work for egress in small openings if they meet the size when open.
In our 2000-built house, we had to change 2 out of 10 windows to a different style for that reason. It was a little more money and casements have their pros/cons (they catch the breeze nicely though!). But safety and code-wise, it was necessary.
I took a bit of a unique approach for hurricane protection: instead of impact windows, I did new non-impact windows + hurricane fabric panels for each window. My home is a 2002 build in South Tampa with 8 windows and 2 sets of French doors. The fabric panels are these lightweight, transparent-ish screens that you deploy over windows when a storm comes; they're Florida Building Code approved for wind and debris.
I mention this because it influenced my window replacement decision. I got non-impact double-pane windows (cost was $7,000 for 8 windows). Then I separately purchased custom-fitted fabric storm panels for all those windows (and the doors) for about $3,000 total. These panels clip onto anchors around each opening.
So all-in I spent about $10k, which was still a few thousand less than doing all impact glass, and now I have full hurricane protection too. The trade-off is I must put up the fabric screens when a hurricane threatens, but it's way easier than heavy metal shutters – each panel weighs very little and I can get the whole house covered in maybe 30-40 minutes by myself. And when not in use, they fold up and store in a tote.
As for the windows themselves: the new ones are great (vinyl, low-E). They just won't stop a missile by themselves. But with the fabric in place, they don't need to. My insurance gives me the same credit as if I had impact windows, because I provided proof of the storm panels and that all openings are covered.
I know it's a bit of an uncommon route, but for those who find impact windows too costly, consider pairing non-impact efficient windows with modern hurricane protection (fabric, accordion shutters, etc.). It can be a good compromise. The key is to plan for it: I had the panel company coordinate with the window installer so they didn’t interfere with each other (e.g., panel anchors were installed in the new window frames as needed).
@lindafisher438 That's a smart approach. I've seen those fabric hurricane panels at home shows and wondered if they were effective. Good to hear a real-life experience. They sound a lot easier than dealing with metal shutters or plywood.
We have traditional metal panels for our house and I'm honestly envious of your setup. I didn't even realize insurance would give the same credit for those fabric systems, but it makes sense since they're rated.
Your solution definitely requires being present to deploy them, whereas impact glass is always there. But for many folks it's a reasonable trade-off. And you got to allocate more budget to better-quality windows (albeit non-impact) plus the panels, instead of blowing it all on impact glass.
If my old shutters ever need replacement, I might go that route with fabric panels too, even though I already have impact windows (can't hurt to have both in a big storm).
Anyway, thanks for sharing that angle. It might help someone realize there are multiple ways to hurricane-protect without overspending.
My house (built 2004 in Westchase, Hillsborough) actually came with builder-supplied metal hurricane panels originally, so we had some protection from the start. We replaced all our windows last year because they were fogging up and generally failing. We decided on impact windows mainly for convenience and also because our insurance strongly recommended it.
After installation, we got an updated wind mitigation inspection done. With the old setup (shutters), we had a wind mitigation credit but with some limitations (we never actually installed shutters on a couple of small bathroom windows because we lost those panels over the years, so technically not ALL openings were covered). With the new impact windows, every opening is protected. The wind mitigation report reflected that and our insurance discount improved slightly. It wasn't huge, maybe an extra $200/year off, but I'll take it.
One cool thing: now during hurricane season, we don't have to think about those metal panels at all. I actually sold my old hurricane panels to someone in a non-insured mobile home who wanted them for cheap protection. Reclaimed a ton of garage space that those panels and the mounting hardware boxes were occupying.
So for anyone who already has shutters/panels, the jump to impact windows might not save you a ton more money on insurance, but it can simplify your life. And if your windows are due for replacement anyway (ours were getting hard to open, seals failed, etc.), it's a good time to make that upgrade.
I want to share an anecdote about the sales process: We had one salesperson (not to be named, but from a larger window company) really push some upsell features that we ultimately found unnecessary. For example, they pitched "triple-pane" glass as an upgrade for soundproofing and energy efficiency. In Florida, triple-pane is usually overkill because double-pane already does a great job, and the energy savings difference is minimal. Plus it's heavier and more expensive. The cost bump was like 20% more. We said no thanks.
They also tried to sell us on a special self-cleaning glass coating. It sounded neat (hydrophobic coating that causes rain to wash dirt off), but again, it added cost and we weren't convinced it would make a huge difference. We passed on that too.
Finally, they had this "limited time offer if you sign today" shtick that just felt very used-car-dealership. They dropped the price by 10% magically when we hesitated, which made me trust them even less.
We ended up not going with that company at all. We chose a competitor who basically said "here's our price, which includes the standard high-performance Low-E glass and everything, and let us know if you have questions." Much more no-nonsense.
So, be wary of high-pressure tactics and fancy upgrades. Most standard double-pane, Low-E, Argon-filled windows (which is what most quotes include) are fine. Unless you have a specific need (like extreme noise reduction where maybe laminated glass or thicker glass helps), you probably don't need triple-pane or other gimmicks in this climate.
@carol_campbell I had almost the exact same experience with a salesman pushing triple-pane and other add-ons. I live in Pinellas and one rep spent a good hour on upselling attempts. They made triple-pane sound like the next big thing, but when I looked into it, triple-pane is more beneficial up north for cold weather. For us, it would mainly help a tad with noise, but impact laminated glass already helps with that anyway.
The self-cleaning glass pitch was given to me too! They called it some proprietary name, but essentially it's a coating. I joked that Florida rains often enough that my windows sort of self-clean anyway. 😉
In the end, we kindly declined all the extras and we didn't sign on the spot despite the "today only" price drop they dangled. We did more research and went with a local independent installer who didn't do any of that sales theater. Their quote was fair from the get-go.
So yeah, trust your gut. If a deal feels pushy, you can always walk away and think on it. A reputable company will give you time; they'll have tomorrow's price the same as today's.