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Simonton, PGT, or Others? Best Windows for Tampa Heat & Energy Savings

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Posts: 36
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(@geo733)
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Hello everyone! We’re finally ready to replace the old single-pane windows in our Tampa Bay home, and I wanted to start a discussion about energy-efficient windows that work best in our area. With the intense sun here (and sky-high AC bills 😅), I’m looking for windows that will keep the heat out and the cool air in.
We're considering a few brands so far – for example, Simonton vs PGT (since both are popular in Florida), and maybe even looking at Milgard or Andersen. Does anyone have experience with these in the Tampa climate? We definitely want Low-E glass, but I’m a bit overwhelmed by specs like SHGC and U-factor. Also, if it matters, our house is a block home from the 90s, and we’re a few miles from the coast (so humidity and some salt air are factors).

Any Tampa Bay homeowners here with advice on which window brands and features gave you the best results for energy efficiency? All insights appreciated!

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Posts: 22
(@sonicbaker889)
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Hi @geo733, welcome! I’m in St. Petersburg and went through a similar window replacement journey last year. We ended up choosing PGT double-pane vinyl windows for our home. So far, I’ve been really happy with them.
What we noticed after installing PGT: Our house stays a lot cooler in the afternoons now. Previously, the sun beating in would make our living room almost unbearable by 4 PM. With the new Low-E glass windows, the infrared heat is greatly reduced – you can literally stand by the window at midday and not feel like you’re in an oven. Our AC doesn’t run as non-stop as it used to.

A few things about the PGT windows: they use Low-E insulating glass and argon gas between the panes. The ones we got have a U-factor around 0.29 and an SHGC around 0.21 (the installer showed me the NFRC label). In plain terms, those numbers mean they’re keeping heat out pretty well for our hot climate. We chose PGT partly because they’re a Florida-based manufacturer, so they design for our kind of weather (intense sun, high humidity, etc.). They also stand up well to our summer thunderstorms; no leaks or anything so far.

I did compare a few brands – Simonton was another I looked at, and honestly, I think both Simonton and PGT make quality vinyl windows for Florida. We went with PGT because the quote was a bit lower and our contractor recommended them for coastal regions. But I’m sure Simonton would have been good too (I’ve heard they have an excellent warranty).

Let me know if you have any specific questions about the PGTs. Overall, it’s been a big improvement for us in terms of comfort and hopefully energy bills!

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Posts: 26
(@ericrebel396)
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Jumping in as another Tampa Bay homeowner. We had our windows replaced 6 months ago and chose Simonton vinyl windows. So @geo733, I can speak to that brand. We live in Clearwater in a 1980s block house. Our experience with Simonton has been excellent so far.
We opted for Simonton’s StormBreaker Plus series (which is their impact-rated line with energy efficiency features) because we figured, why not get the hurricane-rated glass for extra protection. Even if you don’t need impact windows, the laminated glass also provides a bit more noise reduction and UV protection. They came with a Low-E3 coating (triple-layer Low-E) and argon gas fill. The ratings were pretty good – U-factor was about 0.28 and SHGC around 0.23 on the ones we got. In this hot sun, those Low-E coatings make a difference. We no longer get that piercing heat through the glass at midday.

One thing we noticed immediately: the AC runs less and the house cools down quicker in the evening. Also, no more fading spots on our furniture near the windows, which I suspect is due to the Low-E blocking a lot of UV light.

In terms of cost, the Simonton quote was a bit higher than some others (we also got a quote for PGT and one from another brand). Simonton was a bit more expensive than PGT for us, but we decided the reputation and features were worth it. It helped that the installer we went with really trusted Simonton and gave us confidence in that choice.

So far, through one summer and the winter, the Simontons have held up great – no condensation issues, and the vinyl frames look high quality (no warping or discoloration). If you’re considering Simonton, I’d say they’re a solid choice for Tampa’s climate.

Happy to answer any questions about them!

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psage55
Posts: 32
(@psage55)
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We’re in Tampa Palms and also researching windows. I keep seeing terms like SHGC and U-factor, but I’m not totally sure what to aim for in our Florida climate. Could someone explain in simple terms? Like, is a lower SHGC always better here because of the sun? And what about U-factor? I gather those are important for energy-efficient windows, but all these numbers are making my head spin 😊.
Also, any thoughts on frame materials? We assumed vinyl is the way to go (since it doesn’t rot), but I’ve heard about aluminum and fiberglass frames too. Not sure what’s best for humidity. Any insights would be great!

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Posts: 22
(@sonicbaker889)
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Great questions @psage55! I went through the same learning curve. Here’s a quick rundown that should help:
U-Factor: This measures how well a window insulates. It’s basically the rate of heat transfer – lower U-factor means better insulation (less heat passing through the window). In cold climates you want a really low U-factor to keep heat in. Here in Florida, we still care about U-factor (to keep out the outdoor heat), but our temperature difference isn’t as extreme as up north, so U-factor is maybe slightly less critical than in, say, Minnesota. Still, look for something around 0.30 or lower if you can (many good double-pane windows here achieve ~0.25-0.30).

SHGC (Solar Heat Gain Coefficient): This one is super important for us in the Sunshine State. SHGC measures how much solar radiation (heat from sunlight) comes through the glass. It’s a number between 0 and 1; the lower the number, the less solar heat gets in. In Florida, a low SHGC is very beneficial because we have so much sun. It basically means the window’s Low-E coating is reflecting a lot of the sun’s heat away. For our climate, an SHGC ≤ 0.25 is generally recommended. My windows, for example, have SHGC ~0.21 as I mentioned, which really helps keep the house cooler.

Low-E Coatings: “Low-E” stands for low emissivity. It’s a thin metallic coating on the glass that reflects heat. Windows can have multiple layers of Low-E. You might see terms like Low-E2 or Low-E3 (meaning double or triple layer). More layers can further reduce the SHGC (good for blocking heat) and also lower the U-factor a bit. The trade-off is that adding more Low-E layers can slightly reduce the amount of visible light (your glass might be a tiny bit less clear or slightly tinted) and can also add a bit of cost. But most people don’t notice a big difference in clarity. In Florida, many of us opt for the higher performance glass (like a triple-layer Low-E) because keeping heat out is priority #1.

As for frame materials: Vinyl is extremely popular here for a reason – it doesn’t rust (unlike standard aluminum) or rot (unlike wood). Good-quality vinyl windows are durable in our humidity and require basically no maintenance. Aluminum frames are very strong (often used in older Florida homes and in some hurricane-impact windows), but aluminum conducts heat, so if they’re not a “thermal break” design, they can let a lot of heat through. Newer aluminum windows often have thermal breaks to improve efficiency, but vinyl and fiberglass inherently insulate better. Fiberglass is another option – it’s strong like aluminum but doesn’t conduct heat as much, and it handles temperature changes well. It can be pricier though. Wood frames look beautiful and insulate OK, but in Florida’s humid, termite-prone environment, pure wood windows can be high-maintenance (they can swell, rot, or need frequent painting). Many people avoid wood here unless it’s clad in vinyl/aluminum or a composite like Fibrex (used by Andersen) that is more weather-resistant.

In summary, for our climate you want low SHGC, reasonably low U-factor, and a frame material that won’t deteriorate in humidity/salt (vinyl and fiberglass are top choices, composites like Fibrex are good too). And of course, proper installation (foam insulation, sealing) is key to getting the performance those numbers promise.

Hope this helps clear things up!

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Posts: 36
Topic starter
(@geo733)
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@sonicbaker889 Thank you so much for breaking that down so clearly! That helps a ton. And @ericrebel396, I appreciate your Simonton insights as well. Hearing your experiences really gives me a better idea of what to prioritize.
So far, we have a couple of quotes in hand. One is actually from Karoly Windows & Doors (they’re a local contractor) who recommended and quoted us for Simonton windows (double-pane, Low-E2, argon gas, vinyl frames). The other quote we got was for PGT windows from a different company. Interestingly, the Simonton/Karoly quote came in a bit higher in price than the PGT one. It’s making me wonder: Is Simonton just more expensive, or do you all think it’s higher quality to justify the cost? 🤔

It sounds like both brands perform well in our climate, so I’m torn. On one hand, saving money with PGT is nice; on the other, Simonton has a great reputation (and a friend of mine in Orlando swears by her Simonton windows).

Another thing: The Simonton rep from Karoly mentioned their glass has two layers of Low-E coating, whereas another company said they offer a glass with three layers of Low-E for even more heat reduction. I’m not sure if having “triple Low-E” glass is worth it here? Does an extra coating noticeably help in our intense sun, or is double Low-E typically enough?

We haven’t pulled the trigger yet, so any thoughts on whether Simonton is “worth” the premium, or insights on double vs triple Low-E, would be awesome. We’re definitely aiming for energy efficiency and longevity (I’d like these windows to last decades if possible, even with all our humidity and occasional salt air). Thanks again everyone for the great info so far!

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maxpoet
Posts: 19
(@maxpoet)
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Hi all, chiming in with a slightly different perspective. I recently moved from the West Coast to the Tampa area (Seminole, FL). In my previous home (out in California), I had Milgard vinyl windows installed and loved them – they made a huge difference in efficiency there. When I moved to Florida and bought a house here, I discovered Milgard isn’t as common in this region (it was tough finding local dealers). So, for our Florida home, we ended up going with Andersen windows, specifically their Fibrex composite windows.
Our decision-making might be useful to you, @geo733. We considered some vinyl options (Simonton was on the list, as was Pella vinyl). However, I was intrigued by Andersen’s Fibrex material because it’s a composite of wood fiber and vinyl/plastic – the pitch is that it gives you the strength and stability of wood but with much lower maintenance (won’t rot in our humidity, doesn’t need painting, and isn’t supposed to warp). We got quotes from Renewal by Andersen (who use Fibrex) and yes, it was quite a bit more expensive than vinyl options. In the end, we bit the bullet because we liked the look and durability of the product.

It’s been about a year since we installed the Andersen Fibrex windows. So far, they’re performing great. No issues with the frames despite the humidity (which is what we hoped for – no swelling or mold, etc.). The Low-E glass on them made a huge difference in reducing the afternoon glare and heat in our house. I can’t overstate that – one large west-facing window we have would practically bake the room before; now it’s much more manageable with the Low-E coating doing its job.

That said, if I’m honest, I sometimes wonder if we could have gotten similar performance for less money with a high-end vinyl window. The Fibrex looks nice and is very sturdy, but some of my neighbors have vinyl (like PGT or Simonton) and their homes are just as comfortable. I think a good vinyl window these days is also built to handle Florida conditions (UV, heat, etc.) quite well.

In summary: Milgard was awesome in my last home, but here I ended up with Andersen Fibrex mostly for the durability and because I wasn’t confident how pure wood would hold up. If budget wasn’t a factor, I’d say Andersen (or their Renewal line) is excellent. But given budget is a factor for most, I wouldn’t shy away from quality vinyl brands like Simonton, PGT, etc., which are tried-and-true in Florida.

Hope that perspective helps! Each brand has its pros/cons, but the key is they should have good Low-E glass and a durable frame for our climate.

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diy_melissa
Posts: 34
(@diy_melissa)
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I’m in the Orlando area (close enough climate-wise) and I have a question along these lines: Are triple-pane windows overkill for Florida? One of the window companies I talked to offered an option for triple-pane glass, claiming better energy efficiency and noise reduction.
I know up north triple-pane is more common for insulation in cold weather, but here we’re dealing with heat. I’m thinking the extra pane might not provide a huge benefit for the cost, given we don’t have winter cold to keep out. Also, triple-pane units are heavier – not sure if that makes installation trickier or increases the chance of seal failure over time?

Has anyone in Tampa Bay or Florida in general gone with triple-pane windows? Did you find it worth it for the energy savings or quietness? Or are most folks sticking with dual-pane here? I’m inclined to think double-pane with a good Low-E coating and argon is sufficient, but I don’t want to dismiss the idea if there’s a case for triple-pane in our environment.

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meganw35
Posts: 19
(@meganw35)
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@geo733 and @diy_melissa, I can help with both of your questions. I’ve done a lot of research for my home in Apollo Beach and have some nerdy enthusiasm for this topic 😄.
1. Double vs Triple Low-E Coatings (for @geo733): In Florida, many high-performance windows come with a triple-layer Low-E (often branded as something like Low-E^3) because it gives you the lowest SHGC, meaning it blocks more of that intense solar heat. If you have a lot of west or south facing glass, the more Low-E, the better in my opinion. The downside, as mentioned, is slightly less visible light transmission – the glass might have a mild tint or reflectivity. But modern Low-E coatings are pretty advanced; even triple-coat glass is reasonably clear. I have one friend who opted for a slightly less strong Low-E (double coat) because they felt triple gave a slight greenish tint to the light. However, I’d say most people wouldn’t notice unless directly comparing. In my own case, I went with Cardinal’s LoĒ-366 glass (which is a triple-coat Low-E) on my new windows, and the clarity is great while still blocking a ton of heat. So, if one quote is offering a higher grade Low-E glass, that’s a plus for energy efficiency. Double vs triple Low-E will both work, but triple will cut a bit more heat and UV. For Tampa’s sun, I’d lean towards the better glass if budget allows.

2. Triple-Pane vs Double-Pane (for @diy_melissa): Generally, triple-pane is not very common here in Florida. You’re correct that triple-pane’s biggest benefit is in cold climates (extra layer to trap heat inside). In our hot climate, the main heat comes from radiation (sun) rather than a huge temperature gradient, so a good double-pane with Low-E does the job. Triple-pane can help somewhat with insulating against outside heat too, but diminishing returns kick in. Maybe you’d see a slight improvement in U-factor. The other potential benefit is noise reduction – the extra pane (especially if of different thickness or if there’s a laminate layer) can make the window quieter. So if you live on a busy street or under a flight path, triple-pane might be attractive. But note: laminated impact glass (even if double-pane) also cuts noise well, so there are other ways to get soundproofing.

The drawbacks of triple-pane: cost (often significantly more per window), weight (heavier windows can be harder to install and might stress the frames over time if not built for it), and as you said, more complexity (more seals that could fail). Most Florida homeowners (myself included) stick with double-pane. We just make sure those two panes are optimized with Low-E, argon, etc.

Unless you have a specific noise issue or you found a triple-pane option that’s only marginally more expensive, I’d say double-pane is usually enough in our climate. Put the money saved into, say, better quality frames or a reputable installer.

3. Frame Materials in FL (general info): Since @psage55 also asked about this, I’ll add a bit more: Florida, especially Tampa Bay, is tough on materials. Between UV, humidity, salt air (if you’re coastal), you want something low-maintenance. Vinyl is king for many because it’s immune to rot and rust. Just make sure it’s a good quality vinyl – cheap vinyl can warp or discolor under harsh sun, but brands like Simonton and PGT use vinyl formulated for our climate (UV inhibitors, multi-chambered frames for strength). Aluminum frames were very common in older Florida homes because of their strength (and they hold up to storms well). But as mentioned, aluminum conducts heat easily – I remember in my childhood home, the aluminum window frames would actually be hot to the touch in summer and sweat with condensation from the AC inside. Modern aluminum windows often include thermal breaks (a insulating material separating the inside from outside part of the frame) to reduce that heat transfer. They’re still a good option for impact resistance and if you have really large window openings (aluminum can be stronger for big spans). Just ensure any aluminum frames have a thermal break for energy efficiency, and are well-coated to resist corrosion. Fiberglass is not used by everyone, but those who have it love that it’s extremely stable (minimal expansion/contraction with temperature changes) and durable (doesn’t corrode, and can be painted). Marvin and Pella make fiberglass window lines that some folks in Florida use. The cost is usually higher than vinyl though, so it tends to be chosen in higher-end projects. Wood/Clad windows (like classic Andersen or Pella wood frames) need to be clad in aluminum or vinyl on the exterior for protection here, otherwise the humidity, rain, and insects will get to them. Composites like Andersen’s Fibrex (which @maxpoet described) are a nice middle ground – part wood, part polymer – they resist rot and don’t need painting. They do fine in humidity (no rot, no termites can eat it), and they have a bit more rigidity than vinyl. The trade-off again is cost.

So in summary, vinyl or composite frames with double-pane Low-E glass is the go-to for energy efficiency in Florida, triple-pane isn’t usually worth the extra cost, and multiple Low-E layers in the glass are definitely beneficial against our strong sun.

Hope this helps both of you! Feel free to ask for any clarifications.

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Posts: 27
(@cyclist20)
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@geo733 I’ll share my experience since it sounds like you’re deciding between Simonton (with Karoly) and PGT. We actually went with Karoly Windows & Doors for our window project last year, and they installed Simonton windows in our home in Palm Harbor. Yes, Karoly’s quote was a bit higher than others, but we chose them due to their strong reputation and we liked the quality of the Simonton product they offered.
I can report that the Simonton windows are fantastic so far. Karoly installed the Simonton StormBreaker Plus series for us (we wanted the impact glass because we’re very close to the coast). The installation team did a top-notch job – very precise, used spray foam insulation around the frames, and made sure everything was sealed tight. They even adjusted a couple of our slightly crooked openings so the windows would shut perfectly.

Performance-wise, the new windows made an immediate difference. Our house is near the Gulf, so salt air was a concern for us. The Simonton windows Karoly put in came with stainless steel hardware (locks, balances, etc.), which is a must in coastal areas to prevent corrosion. After a year, I see no signs of rust or any degradation, which is a relief (our old cheap aluminum window locks would get rusty often). The vinyl frames on the Simontons have held up great under the sun too – no warping or fading.

In terms of energy efficiency: even with impact glass (which can sometimes have slightly higher SHGC due to the laminate layer), our windows have noticeably reduced heat gain. Last summer, despite the brutal sun, our living room was significantly cooler. And like @ericrebel396 said, the UV protection is real – we had a rug near a window that used to fade; after the window replacement, the fading pretty much stopped.

As for Simonton vs PGT, honestly I think both are excellent for Florida. Simonton might be a tad more expensive, but I feel their build quality and warranty (I believe lifetime on vinyl/frame and 20 years on glass unit for original owner) gave us peace of mind. PGT being local is great too – I know many neighbors with PGT who are happy. We kind of agonized over the same choice and ultimately went Simonton because Karoly recommended them strongly for our needs (and we trusted Karoly based on lots of positive reviews).

No regrets here – we paid a little extra, but we have a quieter, cooler house, and the windows survived this past year’s thunderstorm season without a hitch. I think in your position, both options are good; maybe it comes down to which contractor you trust more or small differences in the window specs. From my side, I can vouch that Karoly + Simonton was a winning combo.

Good luck and let us know what you decide!

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