@sailing891 You’re right that vinyl is the most common for residential windows here now. As @frodochef said, quality vinyl shouldn’t warp or discolor – especially if you go with a known brand that offers a good warranty. I researched this to death before choosing vinyl myself. Modern vinyl windows (uPVC) have additives that prevent UV damage. In our hot climate, thousands of homes have vinyl windows now and they perform well.
Aluminum frames can be very durable (and are strong for large spans), but they do let more heat through. Some high-end aluminum windows have thermal breaks to improve insulation, but those are often used in custom or commercial projects. Fiberglass and composite (like Andersen’s Fibrex) are great materials too, just much pricier and usually sold by specific companies. We decided the extra cost wasn’t justified for us when vinyl would do the job.
To your second question: long-term experience. We obviously haven’t had ours super long (just 1 year in my case), but my neighbors have had theirs ~5 years and no issues so far. The keys seem to be: get a good installer (so they’re installed correctly without bending the frames, proper sealing, etc.) and a window with a solid warranty. Many ENERGY STAR window manufacturers offer lifetime warranties on the vinyl and 20-year+ on the glass seals. That gave me confidence that if something does fail, I can get it fixed.
One example of longevity: my parents up in North Florida put in vinyl double-pane windows 15 years ago, and those are still in great shape – no warping, no seal failures – and that’s with a lot of sun exposure. So I think you’ll be fine with vinyl if you choose a quality product.
I want to chime in with a cautionary tale about warranties and quality. My cousin in Pasco had his windows replaced about 6-7 years ago by some super cheap contractor (I think it was basically an out-of-town crew that did it on the side). The windows themselves were an off-brand. A few years in, several windows started getting foggy between the panes – the seal had failed – and one of the vinyl frames actually cracked at a corner. 😬 He tried to contact the installer and surprise, that guy was out of business. The manufacturer of the windows was some company he had never heard of and getting service was impossible.
Lesson learned: go with a reputable company and brand. When I did my windows, I made sure to use a well-known local installer (one reason I picked a company like Karoly, which has been around a while). They installed a major brand of windows that I know will honor their warranty (plus the installer will back it too). It might cost more upfront, but having that peace of mind is worth it. If a window seal fails or something, I want to be sure I can get it fixed under warranty.
So for anyone shopping, don’t just jump on the lowest quote. Consider the company’s reputation and the product’s track record. Ask about warranty terms (are they transferrable, how long do they cover labor, etc?). In my case, I got a lifetime limited warranty on the windows and a separate installation warranty from the contractor. Hopefully I’ll never need to use it, but it’s good to have.
I just had my windows done by ProTech Windoors here in Wesley Chapel (Pasco) and had an excellent experience. We replaced all 15 of our old windows with new Energy Star rated impact windows. ProTech handled everything – they pulled the permit with Pasco County, kept me updated during the waiting period (it took about 6-7 weeks for the windows to be manufactured and delivered), and then did the install in two days.
The crew was very professional and made sure each window was sealed up tight. We chose impact-resistant windows not only for hurricanes but also because we wanted the extra security and noise reduction that comes with the laminated glass. It was a bit more money upfront, but now we don’t have to worry about putting up storm shutters at all, and our home is quieter inside.
Cost-wise, for reference, it came out to about $1,200 per window on average (so roughly $18k total for 15 windows). That included a couple of large ones and a sliding glass door we did at the same time. Not cheap, but considering they’re impact (which tend to be pricier) and the quality of the install, I feel it was fair. We did get a small break on our home insurance premium for having all openings protected – roughly 10% off the windstorm portion of our insurance. It equates to a couple hundred bucks savings per year, which is nice.
So far the difference is fantastic. Even in the heat of August, our house is cooler. I used an infrared thermometer gun out of curiosity: the interior side of the glass now stays much cooler under direct sun compared to the old single-pane we had. You can literally feel the interior glass and it’s not hot anymore. And as others mentioned, the noise reduction is real – I barely hear the lawn care guys next door now.
If you’re in Pasco or really anywhere in Tampa Bay, I’d highly recommend ProTech Windoors based on my experience. They were not the absolute cheapest quote we got, but their professionalism, product quality, and local expertise made us comfortable. They took care of the county inspection (which passed with no issues the day after install). Overall, we’re very satisfied customers and I’m happy to answer any questions if anyone wants more specifics.
Quick tip for everyone: if you install ENERGY STAR windows, don’t forget about the federal tax credit! 💰 My accountant helped us claim a credit for our window upgrades last year. We got $600 back on our taxes because our new windows met the ENERGY STAR criteria (actually, the “Most Efficient” criteria in our climate zone). The credit is 30% of the cost of the windows up to $600. It’s a nice little incentive from Uncle Sam to offset the cost.
It’s pretty easy to claim (you fill out IRS Form 5695 for Energy Efficient Home Improvements). Just make sure to keep the manufacturer certification statement or ENERGY STAR labels from your windows as proof, in case needed. We just kept the stickers that came on the windows and a copy of our invoice which showed the products were Energy Star rated.
Also, check with your utility company – some, like TECO or Duke Energy, occasionally have energy efficiency rebate programs or free energy audits. I didn’t find any direct rebates for windows from our electric company here in Tampa, but it doesn’t hurt to look. In our case, the federal tax credit was the main extra benefit.
So yeah, definitely take advantage of that credit if you’re getting this done in 2023-2024. It’s basically free money for making your home more efficient. 🙂
Has anyone noticed if new double-pane windows help with noise reduction? My house is near a busy road in Pinellas and my old windows let in every sound (cars, dogs, loud neighbors, you name it). I’m mainly replacing them for energy reasons, but I’m really hoping for a quieter home too. Can anyone who’s done it comment on how much noise is reduced after installing Energy Star windows (especially non-impact ones)? I know impact glass would likely dampen noise more, but I might not go that route.
@psychology_mario Yes, definitely. One of the first things we noticed after installing our new windows was how much quieter it was inside. We went from old single-pane jalousie windows to double-pane (non-impact) and the difference in noise was night and day. Traffic that used to sound like it was coming through our living room is now a dull hum at most. We can still hear very loud noises (like a fire truck siren or a really loud motorcycle if it’s right out front), but it’s significantly reduced.
If noise reduction is a big priority for you, keep in mind that laminated glass (what you get in impact windows) does cut noise even more because the plastic layer in between the glass sheets dampens sound vibrations. Our non-impact windows are not laminated, but they still made a big difference simply by having two panes of glass and better seals. I’d say it cuts out a lot of the higher-frequency noise and dulls the rest.
I have a friend who went with impact windows in St. Pete mainly because of noise (he wasn’t as worried about storms but wanted it quiet). His house is now super peaceful; you barely hear anything outside. For us, non-impact was enough to go from “constantly noisy” to “pretty quiet.” So you’ll definitely get a noticeable improvement with any good double-pane window. And like I said, if you want maximum noise dampening and don’t mind the extra cost, impact (laminated) glass is the way to go.
We have a newer home (built 2015) in Apollo Beach (Hillsborough County), and I’m considering upgrading the windows even though they’re only ~10 years old. The builder-grade windows we have are double-pane but I suspect not the greatest quality (probably barely met code at the time). We’ve had some issues: one window’s seal is already foggy, and a couple of them are a bit drafty. Also, they are not impact-rated, and after last year’s hurricane near-misses, we’re thinking of beefing up our storm protection.
Has anyone here replaced relatively new windows because they wanted better efficiency or impact glass? I feel a bit weird about replacing windows that aren’t that old, but on the other hand, if they’re failing or not efficient, it might be worth it. I’m definitely interested in impact windows for the peace of mind (tired of messing with plywood/shutters). I’d love to hear if others have done a second upgrade so soon and if you felt it was worth the cost. Did you notice a difference even compared to your “okay” existing windows?
Also, do you think it’s worth trying to claim any warranty service on the existing windows (for the one that’s fogged) or should I just go ahead and get all new? The builder-grade stuff probably has a limited warranty that may or may not cover labor. I’m inclined to just replace with higher quality ones and be done with it, especially since we plan to stay in this house long-term.
@jeffp59 That’s a great question. I’ve seen neighbors in relatively new homes decide to upgrade windows, so you’re not alone. Builder-grade windows, even if double-pane, can indeed be lower quality in terms of insulation and durability. If you already have one seal failure at ~10 years, that suggests the quality isn’t the best (many good windows have seals that last much longer). You could check if there’s a warranty – often those might have something like a 10-year glass seal warranty. If you’re close to that, you might get the foggy one replaced for free, but it might take a lot of hassle and still leaves you with the same type of window.
Since you’re considering impact windows for storm peace of mind, it could be worth doing the full replacement now rather than piecemeal fixing the originals. Impact windows will definitely be an upgrade in both strength and likely energy efficiency if you get a good product. ENERGY STAR standards have improved, and an impact-rated low-E window will likely outperform a 2015 builder window in insulation (lower U-factor, etc.) as well.
I’d suggest getting a few quotes and have them evaluate your current windows. Good contractors will give honest feedback – maybe they’ll say you can wait a few more years, or maybe they’ll confirm that an upgrade would be noticeable.
One neighbor of mine had a 2016-built home and he actually did replace all his windows last year. His reasons: he wanted impact glass (didn’t want to put up storm panels anymore) and the original windows were leaking air. He ended up going with one of the companies mentioned here (I believe it was Karoly Windows) and he’s much happier now. He also got a decent discount on home insurance for having all impact windows, which newer homes often don’t initially have if the code didn’t require it when built inland.
Also think about resale: Apollo Beach is a desirable area, and having higher-end impact windows could be a selling point if you ever do move. But since you plan to stay, the immediate benefit is your own comfort and safety.
In short, yes, people do replace “new” windows if they aren’t cutting it. If you can afford it and want the upgrade, go for it. Just make sure to get an itemized quote and maybe negotiate a bit – sometimes if your existing windows are easy to remove (since they’re newer), the labor might be slightly less.
One more tip: as mentioned earlier in the thread, see if your current windows have any warranty you can leverage now before you replace. For example, if you can get the manufacturer to replace that fogged unit under warranty, maybe you could delay doing that room’s window or use that as a backup. But if you’re leaning toward a complete upgrade with impact glass, you might skip the headache and just do it all.
Good luck! Sounds like you’re aiming to turn a good house into a great house with those improvements.
Great thread! I’m learning a ton from reading all these responses. I’m in Seminole (Pinellas) and planning to tackle my windows next year. The advice on contractors and what to look for is extremely helpful. 😊
One thing I’m still debating is whether to try a window film or other quick fixes in the meantime. My windows are old (1980s single-pane), and I know ultimately they need replacement, but I was thinking of maybe adding a reflective tint film this summer as a temporary measure to cut down heat. Has anyone here tried using window film before they upgraded? Did it make any noticeable difference? I figure it won’t help with drafts or air leakage, but maybe could reduce heat a bit.
Regardless, I am pretty convinced new Energy Star windows are the way to go for a real solution. I’m budgeting for it now (the ballpark costs you all have shared give me a realistic idea). In the meantime I might experiment with cheaper tweaks like film just to survive another brutal summer until I do the full project.
Thanks to everyone who’s contributing. And kudos to @astrology616 for starting a Tampa Bay specific thread – super useful to hear local experiences!
@marywolf990 I actually went down that road before deciding to fully replace my windows. In our last house, we tried applying a window film on a couple of west-facing windows to see if it would help with the afternoon heat. It did make a slight difference in reducing glare and maybe a bit of heat, but honestly it was a band-aid on a bigger problem. The room was still pretty warm because the single-pane glass itself would heat up and radiate inward. The film we used was a DIY reflective film from Home Depot. It was inexpensive and not too hard to apply, but it slightly darkened the room and you could see a bit of haze looking out.
For old single-pane windows, films won’t improve insulation (they mainly reduce solar heat gain by reflecting some sunlight). So you’ll still have the issue of poor sealing and conductivity. In my case, we ended up replacing those windows the next year anyway because the film wasn’t enough relief.
The only scenario I’d say film might be worth it is if your windows are in decent shape and you just want to cut a little heat and UV to protect furniture until you’re ready to replace. Just temper expectations: it might lower the heat a little, but it won’t perform anywhere near what a new Energy Star double-pane window would do. Also, if you plan to replace windows soon, consider that some installers might charge extra if they have to scrape off film to remove the old glass (not sure, but I could see it being a minor hassle).
In short, I’d save the money toward the new windows unless the film cost is trivial to you. If you do try it, maybe do one or two windows that get the worst sun as a test. That’s what we did, and it was “okay” but convinced us that full replacement was the real fix.