All this talk about vinyl vs aluminum... One thing I've heard (mostly from an old-school neighbor of mine) is that "vinyl frames will warp or deteriorate in Florida heat/sun." It kind of scared me away from vinyl initially. He was adamant that only aluminum or wood-clad would last. Is there any truth to that? It sounds like many of you have vinyl windows and are happy. Are today’s vinyl windows built to withstand our climate for the long haul? I just worry about spending all that money and then having frames that sag or discolor after 10-15 years.
Regarding vinyl frames warping: Good question. As someone who has been in the window installation business in Florida for a while, I can say that modern vinyl windows hold up very well if you choose a quality product. In the early days of vinyl (think 20-30 years ago), there were cases of vinyl frames yellowing, cracking, or warping, especially with cheap PVC formulations and in intense sun. But technology has improved a lot. Today's reputable manufacturers use UV-resistant vinyl formulations, often with additives that prevent degradation. They also have better internal reinforcements and designs that handle expansion/contraction.
In our Tampa Bay climate, the temperatures do get high, but not usually as high as, say, Arizona (where vinyl also is used successfully nowadays). I have personally removed 15-20 year old vinyl windows during remodels (when owners wanted to change styles or something) and the vinyl was still in good shape – a bit faded in color sometimes, but not warped or brittle. If you stick with white or light-colored vinyl, it reflects more heat and tends to last longer; darker colored vinyl frames (if available) can absorb more heat, but the good ones are tested for that too.
One key is proper installation: vinyl needs to be shimmed and supported correctly. If a vinyl window is oversized and not installed with enough support, any material could distort. But a correct install avoids that. Also, Florida building code requires windows to meet certain structural standards; good vinyl windows are engineered with internal chambers or metal reinforcements to meet impact/hurricane codes, etc., so they are not flimsy.
Nearly every major window replacement company here (including those mentioned like Károly and Pro Tech) predominantly sell vinyl impact or non-impact windows for residential use, which shows the confidence in vinyl in this climate. And they often come with strong warranties (lifetime on frame in many cases).
So I would not worry too much about vinyl warping if you choose a well-known brand with good reviews. If you were in an extreme environment (like constant 120°F heat or something) maybe it'd be a concern, but in Tampa's climate, vinyl has proven itself. Just keep them clean and don't use harsh chemicals on them, and they should last for decades.
I saw Pro Tech Windows & Doors mentioned. Just to give feedback on them: I used Pro Tech for my window replacements about 4 years ago (whole house in Largo). They were top-notch in terms of service and installation quality. No issues to this day. They installed vinyl, double-pane, Low-E/argon windows throughout my place. I got quotes from 3 companies and Pro Tech wasn't the absolute cheapest, but they had a good reputation and I felt comfortable with their knowledge of Florida-specific needs. The crew was professional, did thorough sealing as others described, and the owner even followed up after install to make sure I was satisfied. So if you are considering them, my experience was very positive.
Of course, do your due diligence with any company – but it's nice to know you're looking at ones that other locals have had success with. Good luck with the decision!
Thanks for the insight from the installer! That's reassuring to hear. Sounds like quality and proper install are key. I'm feeling better about vinyl now – I'll make sure to choose a good brand. Appreciate it!
I just stumbled on this thread and have to say it's an awesome resource. I'm a bit late, but I'll share my two cents in case it's useful. We built a new home in the Tampa area in 2021 and energy-efficient windows were a big selling point for us. The builder used double-pane vinyl windows with Low-E (I think they were PGT brand). Initially, I was skeptical whether they'd make a difference since new homes also have good insulation, etc., but after living here through two summers, I'm convinced windows matter a lot.
Our previous home (a 90s house in Tampa) had older double-pane (no Low-E) windows, and our summer electric bills in that house were higher even though it was smaller. In the new house with efficient windows, the AC runs less and we keep it at a comfortable 75°F. I also notice the lack of hot spots near the windows. In the old place, if you stood by the sliding glass door at noon, you could feel the heat. In the new place, you don't feel that at all - the glass is just barely warm even with sun directly on it.
One thing I'd add: if you have any skylights or glass transoms, consider those too. We added a Low-E tubular skylight and made sure the decorative glass above our front door was Low-E as well. They can be small sources of heat otherwise.
Also, about orientation: we did some landscaping to help as well - planting shade trees on the west side. Even with great windows, a little extra shade goes a long way. But that's more of a long-term plan (trees take time to grow!).
Finally, I echo what others have said about getting multiple quotes and checking reviews. We had considered doing an after-market upgrade to triple-pane after we moved in (for one particular window near a noisy area) and one company gave us a ridiculous quote. We passed. Sometimes vendors will try to upsell things like special gas fills or "magical" glass coatings beyond standard Low-E – if it sounds too gimmicky, ask for data. Stick with NFRC-rated, Energy Star products and you can't go wrong.
Great discussion here, I'm taking notes for my brother who is looking to replace windows in his older home.
Quick note on something slightly tangential: the UV protection from Low-E glass. I have a lot of house plants and also some nice hardwood floors and furniture near windows. Before replacing my windows, the sun coming in had bleached out a rug and some wood floor areas over the years. After getting Low-E windows, I’ve noticed far less fading. Low-E typically blocks most UV rays (like 95%+). My plants still get plenty of light (as others have said, visible light is not a problem), but my curtains and sofa aren't getting washed out like before. This is an underrated benefit of upgrading windows – preserving your interior from sun damage.
So for any fellow plant parents or people with nice furniture, you can have peace of mind that Low-E is actually helping filter the harmful rays while still giving your plants what they need. Just wanted to throw that in since it was a nice surprise benefit for us.
This all sounds great for comfort and savings, but I gotta ask about the cost side. For those who've done it, roughly how much did you pay per window (or total)? And did you feel it was worth it? I'm on a tight budget, but my old windows are terrible. I'm trying to figure out if I should do the whole house at once or maybe just do a few key windows now and the rest later when I save up more.
Also, did anyone use financing or loans for this? I've seen some window companies offer 0% financing deals. I'm tempted, but don't want to overspend. I definitely want the benefits, but yeah, shelling out tens of thousands is intimidating. Any advice on approaching the project in a cost-effective way?
Regarding the cost concern: I hear you. Windows are not cheap, especially quality, energy-efficient ones. Prices can vary a lot depending on size, type (single-hung vs double-hung vs sliders, etc.), impact-rated vs not, and the company you use.
For ballpark: when I did my 3-bedroom house (14 windows total) with good double-pane Low-E vinyl windows (non-impact), it cost me about $8,000 (this was a couple years ago). That averaged to maybe $550 per window installed. However, I had some smaller windows. Larger ones or special shapes can be more. If you go impact glass, the cost could be 40-50% higher easily. Another quote I had for the same was $10k from a different company, so it pays to compare.
Some friends of mine with a bigger house (and they chose impact windows) paid like $20k for their whole house. So the range is big. If you have the typical Florida single-hung windows, vinyl double-pane replacements might run $500-800 each installed. Triple-pane or fiberglass or fancy brands can go $1000+ each. Sliding glass doors are even more (a new 8-foot slider can be $2k-$4k).
Was it worth it? For me, yes – despite the cost, the monthly savings and the comfort and noise reduction made me happy. Also, the curb appeal and eventual resale value (new windows are a good selling point) helped justify it.
On doing all vs some: You can certainly phase the project. Maybe do the most used rooms or the leakiest windows first. The downside is you might pay a bit more per window if you break it into small jobs (economy of scale – one big project can sometimes be cheaper than two smaller ones due to setup costs, permit fees each time, etc.). I chose to do all at once to get it over with and because I got a slightly better package price that way. But if it's too much, doing a few at a time is okay – just try to at least complete a whole side of the house or floor for consistency.
Financing: Many window companies do offer financing. I actually took a 12-month no-interest deal that one installer offered, which helped me spread out the cost. Just read the fine print and make sure you pay it off in time if it's a promotional 0% (otherwise interest might hit). Some people also use a HELOC or home improvement loan. With the new federal tax credit, you'll get some money back at tax time which can help offset.
One more tip: sometimes the window manufacturers themselves have seasonal promotions or the utility might have a small rebate (not common for windows, but check). Also, some installers might give a discount if you sign up during the slower season (fall or winter here tends to be a bit slower than spring/summer).
In short, get 3-4 quotes, negotiate a bit (some will price match or throw in an upgrade like free grids or something), consider doing it in one go for better pricing, and use financing if it makes sense for your budget. It's a significant investment upfront but pays you back gradually and in quality of life.
Has anyone here done a DIY window installation for these replacement windows? I'm pretty handy (I've done doors, built a shed, etc.) and was considering ordering windows and installing myself to save money on labor. But I'm also aware that in Florida there are permit and inspection requirements, especially for anything that affects the building envelope. Just curious if any DIYers attempted it or if it's recommended to let the pros handle it due to the technical and legal aspects.
Regarding DIY: I'm a hardcore DIYer for most things (I've done my own flooring, minor electrical, etc.), but I decided to let the pros handle my window replacement. A few reasons why:
Permitting and Code: In Florida, window replacements (especially if you change size or go to impact glass) typically require a permit and must meet certain wind-load ratings, egress rules, etc. A licensed contractor will handle all that paperwork and ensure it's up to code. As a homeowner, you can pull a permit yourself in some counties, but you still need the windows to have the right Florida Product Approval, etc. It was a bit overwhelming to navigate.
Installation finesse: Removing old windows without damaging the surrounds, properly shimming and leveling new units, foaming and sealing – it's doable as a DIY, but if you mess something up, you could get leaks or poor operation. One window might be okay, but doing a whole house is a big undertaking. Professionals have teams that knock these out efficiently and have tricks for the tight fits, etc.
Warranty: Many manufacturers offer a better warranty (or any warranty at all) if windows are installed by certified pros. If you DIY and something goes wrong, you might have a harder time with warranty claims.
Safety and tools: Some windows, especially if they're large or on a second floor, are heavy and tricky to handle. The pros have suction cup handles, scaffolds, etc. I didn't want to risk dropping a unit or installing it slightly crooked.
That said, I have heard of people doing it themselves to save money. If you do one at a time and are very meticulous, it's not impossible. If you go that route, definitely get a helper for lifting and moving the windows, and watch a ton of installation videos. Also be prepared to call in an inspector to sign off if you pull a permit as an owner-builder.
For me, it was worth having it done by folks who do it every day. I watched them do a couple windows and was glad I didn't attempt it – they made adjustments I'd probably have missed.
So, can you DIY? Yes, if you're skilled and brave and do the homework. Should you? In my opinion, for most homeowners it's one of those jobs best left to professionals, especially here in hurricane country where you want absolute confidence in your window's performance.