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Lessons Learned From Window Replacement in Tampa Bay: What to Know Before You Start

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katievolunteer
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(@katievolunteer)
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I replaced all the windows in my Tampa home in mid-2022 and learned a ton in the process. It was a 9-window project on a 1980s house. Looking back, there are a few things I wish I’d known before I started:

Get more than two quotes: I only got 2 quotes and went with one that was slightly cheaper. In hindsight, I suspect I overpaid a bit (it was around $12k for 9 windows, non-impact). The market was crazy then and I later heard friends got better deals by shopping around more.

Permitting and code compliance are non-negotiable: Our contractor pulled a permit and made sure everything met Florida’s hurricane codes. In our area, that means either using impact-rated windows or having hurricane shutters for the windows. We opted for non-impact windows since we have shutters to save money, and the permit process required us to show we had those shutters. The county inspector actually asked to see that we had hurricane panels for the new windows before signing off.

Impact vs. shutters – convenience vs. cost: We chose to stick with our metal shutters and get standard double-pane windows (not impact glass) to save about 30% on costs. It works for safety (we stay code-compliant), but after going through a couple of storm scares, I kind of regret not spending extra for impact windows. During Hurricane Ian’s approach in 2022, we were up on ladders in the pouring rain putting up shutters 😅. That drill gets old fast. Impact windows would have spared us that hassle. If you can afford the impact glass, it’s a big convenience and peace of mind. If not, non-impact + shutters does the job – just be ready to deploy those shutters when needed.

Timeline – expect some waiting: From contract sign to installation completion took about 5 months for us. This was when supply chains were still catching up, so it might be faster now, but custom windows aren’t overnight. The waiting felt long because we were eager to get it done (and our old windows were literally starting to leak air). Patience is key – good things come to those who wait!

The payoff – comfort and efficiency: Once the new windows were in, the difference was immediate. No more drafty corners in the house, and the AC doesn’t run as often to keep the place cool. Our energy bills dropped a bit last summer, and the house is quieter too (those lawn mowers and street noise are much less noticeable now). The curb appeal improved as well; the windows look so much nicer and modern.

Overall, I’m happy we did it, even if we have a couple of minor regrets about our choices. My advice to anyone starting out: do your homework (quotes, research), know your hurricane protection plan (impact vs shutters), and be patient with the process. The end result is totally worth it.

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diy_melissa
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I’m in Pasco County and went through a similar window replacement in early 2023. Our home has 10 windows and we decided to go with non-impact vinyl windows and keep our existing hurricane shutters (to save money). Here are some tidbits from my experience:

Cost savings with non-impact: For 10 windows, we paid about $6,500 total (roughly $650 per window). An impact-rated version would have been at least 25-30% more. For our budget, sticking with shutters made sense.

Permit and inspection: Like @katievolunteer mentioned, Florida code either wants impact glass or shutters. When the county inspector came for the final inspection, he actually asked us to demonstrate our hurricane shutters. We showed him the aluminum panels and hardware for each new window, and that satisfied the requirement. Permit passed with no issues.

No extra insurance credit: One thing to note – because we didn’t install impact windows (we’re relying on shutters), we didn’t get any new insurance discounts. We already had an insurance credit for having shutters, so nothing really changed coverage-wise. If we had gone with impact for all, we might have gotten an additional break (since then it’s “permanent” protection), but with just shutters it stays the same.

House comfort: Even though ours are not impact, they are still double-pane Low-E windows – a huge upgrade from the old single-pane ones we had. Immediately we noticed the house stays cooler in the afternoons. Before, the sun would turn our living room into an oven and the old windows would even get condensation. Now, the Low-E coating keeps a lot of heat out and no more condensation. It’s also a lot quieter inside; the new insulated glass dampens outside noise nicely.

So, for others reading: non-impact windows + shutters can be a viable, cost-effective route if you don’t mind the work of putting shutters up when a storm comes. Just make sure you let the permitting folks know you have shutters (and be ready to prove it). And of course, if budget allows, impact windows add convenience and some insurance benefits – something we’ll consider in the future when we have more savings.

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Posts: 25
(@ashleyc30)
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I’ll echo the advice about getting multiple quotes – the price differences can be jaw-dropping. We replaced 18 windows in our two-story Tampa home last year, and the quotes ranged from absurd to reasonable. For example, one well-known national company quoted us about $48,000 for 18 windows 😱 (and those weren’t even impact, by the way!). We nearly fell over when we saw that number, which was something like $2,600 per window. Needless to say, we did NOT go with them.

In contrast, a local company, Pro Tech Windows & Doors, quoted $26,500 for the same 18 windows – and these were impact-rated (high-quality vinyl impact windows). Huge difference! We also got a quote from an independent contractor who said he’d do a mix of impact on the front of the house and non-impact on the back for around $22k, trying to save some money. We thought about that mix approach, but our insurance agent told us we wouldn’t get the full wind mitigation credit unless all openings were impact, so we scrapped the mix idea.

We ended up choosing Pro Tech Windows & Doors for all 18 windows (impact glass everywhere) at about $26.5k total. It wasn’t the lowest absolute price, but here’s why we felt good about it:

They had a solid local reputation (lots of good reviews and some neighbors vouched for them).

The windows they provided were a well-known brand for Florida (PGT WinGuard, which many consider top-tier for hurricanes).

The overall value for impact windows was excellent compared to the out-of-this-world quote we got from the national brand.

The installation with Pro Tech went smoothly. They sent a big crew and knocked out the whole house in 2 days. They handled everything: pulled permits, scheduled the inspections, and even cleaned up thoroughly each day (I was impressed – they swept and used drop cloths, so minimal mess). It’s been about 6 months since then, and we went through the tail end of hurricane season feeling a lot more secure. Bonus: the house is noticeably quieter and our AC seems to run less because these windows are well-insulated.

Big lesson learned: Don’t assume the highest price equals best quality. Our mid-range quote (from a quality local company) got us excellent windows and service, whereas the highest quote was just overkill in price. So definitely shop around and include local window companies in your search – in Tampa Bay, the local pros often give you more bang for your buck than the big national firms.

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snorkeler41
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Wow @ashleyc30, those quote differences are crazy. I’m in Clearwater and currently in the quote-gathering stage for my window project (planning to replace 10 windows). Your story resonates with me because I’ve also seen a huge spread in prices and approaches:

One company that manufactures windows here in Florida gave me a quote of about $15,000 for 10 vinyl windows (non-impact) – so roughly $1,500 per window for just double-pane, not even impact. Their sales pitch was extremely pushy: the rep spent 2+ hours at my house, did the whole “today only” discount routine to get me to sign on the spot. It felt very used-car-salesman, which was a big turn-off. I did not sign, thankfully.

I’m now reaching out to some smaller, local businesses that folks in this thread (and other neighbors) recommended, like Karoly Windows & Doors and Pro Tech Windows & Doors. I’ve heard these local companies often come in with better prices and a less gimmicky approach. Seeing @ashleyc30’s example, I’m pretty convinced this is the way to go.

I haven’t decided yet, but so far it’s eye-opening how much quotes can vary for the exact same 10 windows. @katievolunteer and @diy_melissa’s posts also show some people paid a lot less by going with local contractors or choosing non-impact + shutters. In my case, I do want impact windows if I can afford them, but I want a fair price. The plan: get multiple quotes (at least 3-4) and make sure to compare apples to apples. I’ll be looking closely at which brands of windows they’re offering, what’s included (permits, install, any stucco repairs, etc.), and the company’s reputation.

Thanks to everyone sharing numbers – it’s helping me feel more confident as I navigate this. I’ll update once I make a decision, but I’m leaning heavily toward those local companies (Karoly, Pro Tech, etc.) based on the good feedback so far, and avoiding the ones that pressure you to “sign today” for a so-so deal.

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hiker61
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I went through a full window replacement on my St. Petersburg home in 2021, and I’d like to share a few “lessons learned” from that experience. Some of these echo what’s already been said, but they’re worth emphasizing:

Get multiple quotes (seriously, more is better): I made the mistake of only getting two quotes. In mid-2021 the demand was high and I was in a rush, so I went with the second quote I got. Later I realized I probably overpaid by not shopping around. I spent about $12k for 9 non-impact windows. In a normal market, I suspect it could have been a couple thousand less. Now in 2025, things are more competitive. So, don’t settle for the first or second quote – get a few and make them compete for your business.

Include everything in the contract: Make sure your quote/contract spells out the details of the job. That means permit fees, materials, labor, disposal of old windows, and any repairs (stucco, drywall, or wood) that might be needed. I assumed mine included all that, but surprise – after they pulled out my old windows, one opening had some wood rot and I got hit with a $400 change order to fix it. Ouch. In hindsight, I should have asked upfront how they handle unforeseen issues like rot or stucco damage. Now I tell everyone: ask and get it in writing if possible, so you know who pays for what if something unexpected pops up.

Impact vs. non-impact (the hindsight on shutters): I chose non-impact windows plus shutters (to save money at the time – impact glass was pretty pricey in 2021 and hard to get). It met code and all, and I thought I’d be fine with it. And the windows themselves are great quality. But when we got a hurricane warning last year, putting up those metal shutters reminded me what a hassle it is. Climbing ladders in the heat, wrestling with panels... 😅 After that, I kind of wished I had splurged on impact glass for the convenience. Not having to do the shutter drill every time a storm threatens would be nice as I get older. So, if you can swing the extra cost for impact windows (and especially if the price gap has narrowed since 2021), it might be worth it for convenience and peace of mind. Don’t get me wrong, non-impact + shutters is a perfectly valid choice if budget is the priority (that’s why I did it), just know what you’re signing up for in terms of effort during storms.

Be patient with timeline: My project was during the tail end of the big supply chain delays. I waited almost 5 months from order to install. Factories were backed up then. I’ve heard that nowadays (2024-2025) lead times are better – maybe more like 8-12 weeks for many window brands – but always ask about the expected lead time. These windows are custom made for your house, so it’s never going to be next week delivery. The installation itself for my 9 windows took 2 days with a crew of two guys, and then I had to wait about a week for the city inspector to come approve the work. Those weeks of waiting (for manufacturing and for final inspection) felt long, but that’s just part of the process. Knowing ahead of time to expect delays will help keep you from getting too frustrated.

Despite a couple of these hiccups, I have zero regrets about getting new windows. The improvement in my home’s comfort and security is tremendous. Lesson in summary: shop around, nail down the details in writing, think hard about impact vs shutters for the long term, and brace for a bit of a wait. Once it’s done, you’ll love the result.

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Posts: 36
(@geo733)
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One small but important lesson I learned: know the building code requirements for specialty glass in certain spots. When we were finalizing our order, our contractor pointed out that by code, the window near our bathtub needed to be tempered safety glass (for obvious reasons – so it won’t shatter into sharp pieces if someone slips or it’s impacted). Same with a large window that’s close to the floor in our foyer – it had to be tempered.

These requirements weren’t something I had considered at all as a homeowner, but our installer knew the rules. It did add a bit to the cost for those specific windows (tempered glass is slightly more expensive), but it’s necessary for passing inspection and for safety. So, if you have bathroom windows or low windows, expect the code might require tempered glass. A good contractor will handle this, but it’s nice to be aware so you’re not surprised by a line item in your quote for “safety glass” on a couple of windows.

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michelle_diver
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I can share some insight on the homeowners insurance aspect of getting new impact windows, since that was a big factor for us. We installed all impact windows (no shutters anymore) in mid-2024, and afterwards we saw about a 20% reduction in our home insurance premium. In real numbers, that was roughly $400 per year of savings for us. We did already have a small discount for having shutters previously, but upgrading to impact windows gave an additional bump because now our openings have “permanent protection” – meaning we don’t have to do anything extra to protect them in a storm.

A few notes on this:

Insurance documentation: To get that discount, our insurance company required a wind mitigation inspection report. After our windows were installed, we hired a licensed wind mitigation inspector (cost was about $100). He came out and verified that all our openings (windows, plus our doors and garage door) were hurricane-resistant. He then provided the standard Wind Mitigation Inspection form, indicating we have impact-resistant glazing on all windows. We sent that to our insurer, and they applied the discount. (Some insurance companies might accept just proof of the permit and product approvals, but in general the wind mit report is the gold standard because it formally quantifies your home’s wind protections.)

Shutters vs Impact for insurance: Before we got impact windows, we had metal shutters for every window, which did give us an insurance credit (albeit a smaller one). By switching to impact windows, the credit increased a bit. It’s largely because there’s no human action needed – the protection is always there, so the risk is a tad lower in the insurance company’s eyes. However, I will note, the insurance savings alone won’t pay off the windows quickly or anything – it’s a nice bonus, but mostly we did the impact windows for our own peace of mind and convenience.

What about hurricane window film?: I’ve heard people ask if security film on the glass can substitute for impact windows or shutters. The short answer is no – at least not in the eyes of building code or insurance. Those films might hold some glass together if it breaks, but they do not make a regular window truly impact-resistant to the level Florida code requires. Our insurer (and the code inspectors) only care about actual impact-rated windows or code-approved physical shutters/screens. So, we didn’t consider film as an alternative. We went with the real deal impact windows.

For us, the convenience of not needing to put up shutters and the added security were worth the extra cost of impact windows. The insurance discount (again, ~20% off our premium) was a nice plus that will recoup some money over time, but it’s really the peace of mind that we value most.

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kayaker91
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I live out on the coast in Pinellas County (near the Gulf), so I wanted to add some coastal perspective to this discussion. Our area has to deal with salt air, high winds, and all that fun stuff:

Corrosion concerns: If you’re near saltwater, make sure the windows you choose have hardware that is corrosion-resistant. For instance, stainless steel components or specially coated hardware will hold up much better in the long run. Our installer assured us that the window brand we chose used stainless hardware standard for coastal applications. Salt air can rust out normal window locks and hinges surprisingly fast, so this is a big deal near the beach.

Wind zone ratings: Coastal areas often have higher wind speed requirements. Our home isn’t in the Miami-Dade high velocity zone, but we still needed windows rated for something like 150 mph wind loads due to being close to open water. The Florida Product Approval on our windows reflected that, and the installer actually showed me that documentation. If you’re on the water or even just in a wind-exposed spot, double-check that the windows proposed are rated for those conditions (any reputable local company will handle this, but I mention it for peace of mind).

Extra caulking and sealing: Our installer took extra steps to waterproof around the windows. They used a rubberized flashing tape around the edges before sealing it up, which they said is especially important for wind-driven rain in coastal storms. We haven’t had any leaks, even after some sideways rain in summer thunderstorms, so I think it paid off.

Basically, in Tampa Bay’s coastal areas, be sure to mention to your contractor if you’re near saltwater. They’ll likely use materials and techniques suited for that environment (and if they look at you funny when you bring up salt or wind, that’s a red flag to find someone experienced in coastal work). Our windows have been in for 2 years now and no corrosion or issues to speak of, whereas a neighbor who DIY-ed some cheaper windows is already dealing with rusty screws. So, the details matter!

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dobby_walker
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Quick note on HOA approvals – don’t forget this step if you live in a neighborhood with a homeowners association. In my community in Westchase, Tampa, any exterior change like windows needs HOA approval. I had to submit an application with details on the window style, frame color, and even glass tint. Our HOA was mostly concerned that the windows looked similar to the originals from the street (they required white frames and grids on the upper half of front-facing windows to keep the look consistent).

This process took about 3 weeks for me: I turned in the spec sheets from the window company (showing the style and that it would have the same grid pattern on the front windows), and the architectural review committee gave the thumbs up. Only then could I schedule the installation. It didn’t end up being a big deal, but I’ve heard some HOAs can be sticklers. Lesson: Check your HOA rules early on. It would suck to sign a contract and order windows, then find out your HOA says “no” or wants changes. In some neighborhoods, they might say you can’t change the window style or must keep grids, etc. In others, like my friend’s community, the HOA didn’t care at all and many people actually removed the grids for a modern look.

For us, to keep the peace, we did grids on the front windows as required, but went grid-free on the sides and back of the house where the HOA doesn’t mandate it. I actually like that compromise – from the street the house looks traditional as before, but inside and in the backyard we enjoy the clear, unobstructed view from gridless windows. Best of both worlds, given the rules we had to follow.

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Posts: 21
(@anthonylee505)
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Replying to @dobby_walker, makes a great point. My HOA (in a subdivision in Largo) also wanted to ensure uniform appearance. In my case, they allowed me to remove the old grids, because others in the neighborhood had already done so and it was becoming the new norm. But I still had to get their OK in writing.

Some HOAs can be very strict about grids, window frame colors, even the style (e.g., all homes must have the same type of window). Another neighbor of mine had to stick with bronze frame windows because that’s what all the houses on her street had originally – her HOA wouldn’t approve white frames visible from the front.

The takeaway: definitely run your window plans by the HOA if you have one. It’s usually just a formality, but better safe than sorry. And keep records of the approval. When the work was done, our HOA actually wanted a copy of the permit and a photo of the finished product for their files! They’re that thorough.

On the plus side, after we got approval and replaced our windows, a bunch of neighbors came by to ask about them. The HOA thing was a bit of a hoop to jump through, but now even the HOA board members are asking us who did our windows because they look great and several other residents are interested. So maybe we started a trend, with permission of course 🙂

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