Can confirm, once that paint or caulk starts to fail, the water just creeps in. I had a couple of Andersen windows from the 90s where I thought I was on top of maintenance, but missed one spot behind a storm window... ended up with soft wood along the bottom rail. Not fun to fix. I do think Marvin’s finish holds up better, but even then, it’s a losing battle if you’ve got heavy humidity or bad drainage outside. Dehumidifier’s a lifesaver in my basement—otherwise, everything down there feels damp all summer.
I hear you on the humidity—makes everything a challenge. But I don’t totally buy that it’s always a losing battle with wood windows, even in tough climates. If you’re seeing soft wood at the bottom rail, nine times out of ten there’s a drainage problem outside or water pooling at the sill. I’ve seen plenty of 30-year-old units hold up fine with decent overhangs and regular touch-ups. Paint and caulk are important, but if the sill’s pitched wrong or mulch is piled too high, you’ll be fighting rot no matter what brand you’ve got. Sometimes it’s worth checking how water moves around those windows before blaming the finish.
That’s a good point about drainage—
I learned that the hard way when I noticed some soft spots on my dining room window. Ended up pulling back the mulch and adding a drip edge, which helped a lot. Curious if anyone’s tried adding those little rain diverters above their windows? I’ve seen them on older homes but never used one myself.“if the sill’s pitched wrong or mulch is piled too high, you’ll be fighting rot no matter what brand you’ve got.”
Rain diverters are one of those old-school tricks that actually work if you install them right, but I don’t see folks adding them much on newer builds. I’ve put a few in on historic homes—usually simple pieces of bent flashing over the trim. They definitely help keep water off the head casing, but they can look a little clunky unless you’re careful with the install.
- Pulled apart a 1920s bungalow last year, and every window had a diverter. Zero rot up top, but plenty down low where mulch and splashback did their damage.
- With modern windows, especially those with wood interiors, I’m more likely to spec bigger drip caps or proper flashing tape. Sometimes both.
- If your siding’s got deep profiles (like lap or shakes), diverters can be tricky—they sometimes channel water behind the trim if you’re not careful sealing everything.
- Mulch piled high is a killer for sills. Even pressure-treated stuff won’t last forever if it stays wet.
Curious—has anyone ever tried those newer “invisible” diverters? They’re supposed to blend in better than the old aluminum ones, but I haven’t seen them in person yet. Wondering if they’re worth the extra bucks or just another gimmick...
Also, for anyone dealing with wood interiors: how are you keeping up with finish maintenance? I find even with good drainage, if the finish fails inside, humidity can still sneak in and start trouble.
I’ve seen those “invisible” diverters but haven’t installed one yet—honestly, I’m skeptical about their longevity. Last project, I stuck with custom-bent copper flashing for a craftsman with wood interiors. It blended in better than aluminum, but still took some finesse. As for finish maintenance, I swear by a yearly wipe-down and touch-up with spar varnish, but it’s a pain when you’ve got a dozen windows. Even then, if the humidity spikes or the caulking fails, trouble finds a way in...
I get the appeal of copper flashing—it does look sharp, especially with wood interiors. But honestly, I’m not convinced it’s always worth the extra hassle or cost. I’ve used the newer composite diverters a couple times now, and while they’re not invisible forever, I haven’t seen any real issues after five years. Maybe they won’t last 50 years like copper, but with how often I’m already up there re-caulking or touching up varnish, swapping out a diverter every decade doesn’t seem like a big deal. Maintenance just never ends with real wood, does it?
That’s a fair point about the composite diverters. I’ve swapped out a few over the years, and honestly, it’s not that big a deal, especially compared to sanding and re-varnishing wood trim every couple summers. But have you noticed any warping or swelling with the composites in heavy rain? I’ve had one or two that didn’t sit quite right after a cold snap. Copper definitely lasts, but yeah, it’s pricey and a pain to work with. Sometimes I wonder if we’re all just chasing that “maintenance-free” unicorn with wood windows...
Sometimes I wonder if we’re all just chasing that “maintenance-free” unicorn with wood windows...
Honestly, I’m starting to think that unicorn doesn’t exist. We just bought our place last year and the wood windows look amazing, but I’ve already had to touch up a couple spots where rain got in. I haven’t seen any warping with the composite diverters yet, but I’m keeping an eye out since the last cold snap made one of them creak weirdly. Copper’s too rich for my blood, so I guess I’ll just keep patching things as they come up.
Yeah, I’m with you—it’s like there’s always some new little thing to deal with. Our windows are only a few years old and I’ve still had to re-caulk spots where the paint started peeling. Do you notice any drafts when it gets really windy? I keep thinking maybe I missed a spot or something...
Do you notice any drafts when it gets really windy? I keep thinking maybe I missed a spot or something...
It's not uncommon, even with newer windows. Real wood interiors are great for aesthetics but tend to expand and contract with humidity shifts, which can break the caulk seal over time. If you’re still getting drafts after re-caulking, check the weatherstripping too—sometimes that’s the culprit, not just the caulk. Even a small gap can let a surprising amount of air in during a windstorm.