I actually had to fill a couple of stripped holes with wood glue and toothpicks before reinstalling the lock—kind of an old-school trick, but it worked.
Wait, is that really all it takes to fix those loose locks? I’ve got a couple windows upstairs where the sash lock just spins and I figured I’d need some fancy repair kit or something. Does the toothpick thing actually hold up long-term, or am I just buying time until it falls out again?
Also, about the glazing—how do you know when it’s bad? Some of mine look kind of rough but nothing’s rattling (yet). Is it worth messing with if there’s no draft? These windows are definitely “full of character,” but sometimes I wonder if they’re more trouble than they’re worth...
Toothpicks and wood glue are surprisingly solid for stripped screw holes, especially in old wood. I’ve seen fixes like that last years, honestly. If the hole’s totally chewed out, you might need to drill and dowel, but usually the toothpick trick holds up way longer than you’d expect.
On glazing—if it’s cracked, missing chunks, or pulling away from the glass, it’s probably time to redo it. If it’s just ugly but still sealing, you can put it off, but eventually it’ll start letting water in. I get the “full of character” thing… but yeah, sometimes old windows are just full of headaches too.
The toothpick trick really does work wonders—used it on some 1940s window sashes in my place. I was skeptical at first, but those tiny slivers of wood plus glue actually held the hardware tight for a couple years. When I finally had to redo one, drilling and doweling was definitely more solid, but way more work. On glazing, I’ve noticed the old linseed oil putty gets brittle and falls out if you wait too long. It’s tempting to leave “character,” but water damage is a pain to fix later... learned that the hard way.
- Totally agree on the toothpick trick—quick fix, lasts longer than you’d think.
-
Couldn’t have said it better. I left some “character” in my old sashes and paid for it with rotten wood a year later.“It’s tempting to leave ‘character,’ but water damage is a pain to fix later...”
- Drilling and doweling is sturdier, but yeah, takes way more time and patience.
- Glazing putty—if it’s cracking, I just scrape and re-do before winter. Learned that lesson after one too many leaks.
-
“It’s tempting to leave ‘character,’ but water damage is a pain to fix later...”
Yeah, I’ve made that call before—regretted it when the soft spots spread under the paint.
- Toothpick trick’s saved me in a pinch, but I find a dab of wood glue with it makes it last longer.
- Glazing putty is always a gamble. I try to check mine every fall, but sometimes I get lazy… and then I’m outside in December fixing what I should’ve done in October.
- Drilling and doweling does take more time, but it’s worth it for anything structural.
You’re on the right track—staying ahead of the rot’s way less hassle than replacing a whole sash.
“Glazing putty is always a gamble. I try to check mine every fall, but sometimes I get lazy… and then I’m outside in December fixing what I should’ve done in October.”
That hits home—every year I tell myself I’ll catch it before the cold sets in, but somehow I end up scraping flaky putty with numb fingers. The toothpick trick’s clever, though I’ve had mixed results if the rot’s gone deeper than it looks. Anyone else ever pull off a bit of paint and realize the “character” is just hiding a bigger mess? Real wood’s great until it tries to return to nature, I guess.
That’s exactly it—real wood looks good, but it’s basically an open invitation for headaches if you miss a season or two. I had a spot on my dining room window that looked fine from the outside, but once I started poking around, half the putty just crumbled away and the wood underneath was soft as a sponge. Ended up replacing the whole lower sash because the rot had gone way farther than I could see.
I’ve tried all sorts of tricks—wood hardener, epoxy, even just packing in new putty and hoping for the best—but honestly, once the moisture gets in, it’s just a matter of time. The “character” thing makes me laugh because that’s what I told myself when I first moved in. Now I know it’s usually just code for “future project.”
Still, I’ll take real wood over vinyl any day, even if it means freezing my hands off every fall. At least you can fix it, even if it’s a pain.
Still, I’ll take real wood over vinyl any day, even if it means freezing my hands off every fall. At least you can fix it, even if it’s a pain.
That hits home for me. I’ve got an old cape from the 40s and those original sashes are still hanging on, but every year it’s a new adventure—scraping, sanding, priming, the whole nine yards. I always tell myself I’ll get ahead of the rot, but there’s always a spot or two that surprises me. Last year I found a corner that looked solid until my screwdriver went right through like it was wet cardboard.
I do get why folks swap to vinyl or aluminum. Less fuss, less worry about things like “did I seal that joint well enough?” But honestly, once you’ve seen the grain and feel of real wood, it’s hard to go back. Vinyl just feels… cold? And you can’t patch up a crack in vinyl the way you can with wood.
That said, I started using a marine-grade spar varnish on my exterior sills and it’s made a world of difference. It’s not cheap and the smell is brutal while it dries, but two coats and water just beads right off. Still have to keep an eye out for soft spots though.
Funny you mention “character”—I used to think every little dent or scratch gave the place charm. Now I see them as warning signs for future weekends spent with a heat gun and putty knife. Still, I’d rather deal with that than try to match yellowed vinyl when one window inevitably cracks.
If anyone’s on the fence about keeping their old wood windows, I’ll say this: they’re more work, but when you open them up on a spring morning and hear that old sash weight clunk down? Worth it. Even if my knuckles are raw by October.
Now I see them as warning signs for future weekends spent with a heat gun and putty knife.
That’s the truth. Every fall feels like a race against the first cold snap for me. I’ll admit, after spending too many weekends with epoxy and filler, I caved and tried one of those wood hardener products on a soft sill last year. It actually worked better than I expected, but nothing beats solid old-growth wood. Vinyl’s tempting sometimes, but it just doesn’t have the same soul… or fixability when stuff goes sideways.
Vinyl’s tempting sometimes, but it just doesn’t have the same soul… or fixability when stuff goes sideways.
Yeah, I get that. Vinyl is supposed to be “set it and forget it,” but if something cracks or warps, there’s not much you can do except full replacement. At least with wood, you’ve got options—even if they involve “epoxy and filler” weekends. I tried a consolidant on an old casement sash last year—helped for a season, but the drafts are another story.
Honestly, I’m torn on the energy side of things. Original wood windows (if you keep them in decent shape) with storms are actually pretty solid for efficiency, but it’s a lot of upkeep. Once you start seeing paint bubbles or soft spots, it feels like a losing battle some years. Still, I’d rather deal with that than ripping out something that’s been there for decades just because it’s easier to maintain.
Not sure I’d call myself nostalgic, but there is something about being able to actually repair what you’ve got... even if it means another trip to the hardware store.