That’s interesting about the hardware—mine have held up, but I did notice a couple screws backing out after the first winter and had to snug them up. Did you use spray foam or fiberglass for insulation around the frames? I went with low-expansion foam, but I’ve heard mixed things about long-term movement.
I’ve always gone with low-expansion foam around window frames, too. It’s just easier to control than fiberglass and seems to seal up drafts better, at least in my experience. I get what you mean about the movement, though—one of my upstairs windows started to show a little gap after two years. Nothing major, but I had to touch up the caulk. I’ve heard some folks swear by fiberglass for older houses that shift a lot, but I feel like it never gets as tight a seal unless you’re really careful. Did you notice any shifting or just the screws coming loose? Sometimes I wonder if it’s more about how square the opening is than the insulation itself.
Curious if anyone’s tried that “window and door” specific foam from DAP or Great Stuff. I’ve only used the regular low-expansion stuff but wondering if there’s actually a difference long-term...
I’ve actually used the “window and door” foam from Great Stuff, and honestly, it does seem a little more flexible than the standard low-expansion kind. I noticed less cracking around the frame after a couple freeze/thaw cycles, but it’s not night and day. I still think the biggest issue is whether your rough opening is truly square—if it’s off, even the best foam won’t save you from eventual gaps. Ever try shimming a slightly warped frame? That’s where I always end up second-guessing my choices. Anyone ever see a real-world difference in air leakage tests between foams?
I’ve messed around with both types of Great Stuff and honestly, I can’t say I noticed a huge difference in air leakage, at least not with my basic DIY tests (just the ol’ hand-over-the-frame trick and a candle). Like you said, if the opening’s not square or the frame’s got a twist, foam is just patching up after the fact. I’ve had more luck focusing on getting that rough opening as close to perfect as possible, then using foam just to fill in the small gaps. The shimming part drives me nuts too—especially when you think you’ve got it level and then something shifts. Never did a pro-level blower door test though... maybe I’d be surprised?
The shimming part drives me nuts too—especially when you think you’ve got it level and then something shifts.
Totally get that. I swear, shims have a mind of their own. I’ve found that double-checking with a long level before foaming helps, but even then... things settle. Ever tried using those adjustable shims? Not perfect, but they’ve saved me a few headaches. I do wonder if a blower door would actually show a big difference or just confirm what we already suspect about the gaps.
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— Story of my life with window installs. Even after using a long level, I’ve had to pull a window and redo the shims because it shifted overnight.things settle
- Adjustable shims are handy but sometimes feel a bit flimsy, especially on heavier windows.
- I’ve done a blower door test after install. It did pick up some air leaks at the sill where I thought I’d sealed everything, so it’s worth doing if you’re picky about drafts.
- Honestly, if you’re splurging on Jeld-Wen, might as well take the extra time with shimming and air sealing… the window’s only as good as the install.
I totally get the pain of thinking you’ve sealed everything, only to find a draft later. Did a blower door test on my last place too and was surprised how much air was sneaking in around the windows—even with what I thought was careful install. Honestly, I’d rather spend a bit more on the windows and take my time with shims and sealant than deal with cold spots all winter. The energy savings add up, but only if you do it right the first time.
Yeah, been there—thought I did a solid job sealing, then felt that little icy breeze anyway. Honestly, I’d rather drop extra cash on decent windows than mess with retrofitting later. Cheap ones just end up costing more in headaches and heating bills.
I hear you on the headaches from cheap windows. I went the “save now, pay later” route a few years back—figured I’d outsmart the system and just add extra weatherstripping. Fast forward to my first winter in the house, and I was basically living in a wind tunnel. The drafts found their way in no matter what I tried, and my heating bill looked like a phone number.
I’m still a bit skeptical about whether splurging always means better performance, though. Had a buddy who dropped serious cash on high-end windows (not Jeld-Wen, but another big name), and he still had condensation issues. Makes me wonder if install matters just as much as brand.
If I were building again, I’d probably spend more upfront but do some digging on both the product and whoever’s putting them in. It’s like, you can buy the fanciest door, but if it’s hung crooked, you’re still getting a draft...
It’s like, you can buy the fanciest door, but if it’s hung crooked, you’re still getting a draft...
Couldn’t agree more with this. I see it all the time—folks shell out for top-tier windows, but if the install’s sloppy, you’re just burning money. Honestly, I’d rather have a mid-range window put in right than a premium one with gaps or bad flashing.
I’ve replaced a lot of “high-end” windows for people who were frustrated with leaks or fogging, and almost every time it comes down to poor install or missed details in the framing. Sometimes it’s the house settling, but more often it’s just rushed work.
Not saying Jeld-Wen’s perfect, but if you get a solid installer who actually takes their time—checks for square, seals everything up, uses the right shims—you’ll get way more value than just picking the priciest option. I’d dig into reviews on the local installers before picking the window brand.
Funny enough, I’ve seen some older, cheaper windows hold up better just because they were put in with care back in the day. Quality install really is half the battle.