- Been down this road with our 1938 brick colonial, and I’ll admit, I tried to “save” the original frames with some creative patching. Didn’t go great.
-
— Bingo. Thought I’d beaten the system after an epoxy marathon… then a year later, one window started sticking, and another had a cold draft that felt like it came straight from the Arctic.“Even if the original frame *looks* solid after epoxy, you’re still gambling with hidden rot or shifting over time.”
- Pocket installs seemed tempting (way less mess), but I underestimated how much those old frames had shrunk and shifted over the decades. Air leaks were a pain, and honestly, my energy bills didn’t drop much.
- Full frame replacement was a headache—dust everywhere, brick dust in places I’m still finding—but once it was done, everything just… worked. No more drafts, no more fighting the sashes every spring.
- Upfront cost hurt (wallet is still recovering), but not having to revisit each window every couple years has been worth it for my sanity.
- Only exception: one oddball window in a back room where the original frame was somehow untouched by time or weather. That pocket install held up fine—so sometimes you do get lucky.
- If your frames are genuinely solid and you’re not seeing any movement or rot after a few seasons, maybe you’re in that rare “unicorn” category. Most of us aren’t so lucky with pre-war brick.
Long story short: I’d rather deal with one big mess than a series of small ones that never seem to end. But hey, if your windows are holding up after a pocket install, count yourself ahead of the game... just keep an eye out for sneaky drafts next winter.
I get the appeal of trying to keep the old frames—believe me, I was right there, convinced a few tubes of epoxy and some patience would save me thousands. But after two freezing winters in this drafty 1920s bungalow, I’m not buying the “just patch it” idea anymore. Pocket installs looked great on paper, but I still ended up chasing cold spots and sticky windows. If you ask me, full frame replacement is a pain upfront, but at least you’re not stuck wondering what’s rotting behind the plaster. Maybe not everyone needs to go that route, but I wouldn’t gamble on it twice.
- Full frame replacement definitely solves a lot of hidden issues—especially with older homes where you just can’t see what’s going on behind the trim.
- Pocket installs work if the old frames are still solid, but in a 1920s place, that’s a big “if.”
- I’ve seen folks regret skipping the full tear-out when they discover rot or mold later on.
- Curious—did you run into any surprises with insulation or framing once you pulled the old windows? Sometimes that’s where the real headaches start...
Curious—did you run into any surprises with insulation or framing once you pulled the old windows? Sometimes that’s where the real headaches start...
Oh man, pulling out the old windows in my 1935 place was like opening a mystery box—except instead of treasure, it was mostly questionable insulation and a healthy dose of “what were they thinking?” moments. I went for full frame replacements too (Jeld-Wen casements, actually), and I gotta say, it’s not just about what you see. It’s what you *smell* sometimes. One window had a little ecosystem of moldy wood and what I’m pretty sure was ancient mouse bedding. Fun times.
Step-by-step, here’s how it went for me:
1. Yanked off the trim, expecting maybe a little dust. Instead, found newspaper from 1947 stuffed as insulation. Not even kidding.
2. Once the frame came out, I realized there were gaps big enough to lose a screwdriver in. No wonder my heating bill was through the roof every winter.
3. Had to replace a couple studs that looked more like driftwood than lumber.
4. Used low-expansion spray foam to seal everything up tight before putting in the new window.
Honestly, pocket installs would’ve been way easier (and cheaper), but after seeing all that rot and random “insulation,” I’m glad I just ripped the band-aid off. Full frame is more work upfront, but at least now I know there aren’t any surprises hiding back there—unless the squirrels have found a new way in.
If anyone’s on the fence about full frame vs pocket in an older house, my two cents: if your house is pushing 100 years old, assume there’s weirdness behind every piece of trim. Saves headaches later on.
Energy bills dropped a bit after swapping out all that “vintage” insulation too… not enough to retire early or anything, but hey, every bit counts when you’re running baseboard heat in February.
That sounds all too familiar. I had a similar experience—pulled out what I thought was just old fiberglass and found crumbling plaster, mouse tunnels, and a random sock (no clue). Full frame is a pain, but at least you know it’s done right. Definitely worth the hassle in the long run.
- Full frame replacement is a hassle, but like you said, it’s the only way to really know what’s behind those walls. I found a half-eaten granola bar and a petrified bee’s nest when I did mine last winter—guess that’s what decades of leaky windows gets you.
- Energy efficiency jumps up a lot with new casements, especially if you’re going from old single-pane or aluminum frames. The difference in air sealing is honestly night and day. I could feel the drafts vanish as soon as the new ones went in.
- Jeld-Wen’s not the fanciest, but their casements are solid for the price. U-factor and SHGC ratings are decent—just check the sticker before you buy, since some lines are better than others. I went with their triple-pane option, which wasn’t cheap, but my heating bill dropped noticeably.
- One thing to watch for: make sure your installer air-seals around the frame properly. Even a high-end window leaks heat if there’s a gap between the frame and wall. I used low-expansion foam and backer rod, then taped the seams with flashing tape. Bit overkill, but it pays off in comfort.
- The mess behind the old frames is gross, but it’s almost a relief to get it cleaned out. At least you know you’re not trapping mold or critters in there for another 20 years.
- Only downside for me was the trim work. Matching the old woodwork took more time than actually installing the windows. If you’re picky about aesthetics, budget extra time (and patience).
- Window choice can depend on climate too—casements seal tighter in wind, which matters up here in Minnesota. In milder areas, you might not notice as much difference.
- End of the day, yeah, it’s a pain—but between energy savings and no more mystery socks in the wall, I’d do it again.
One thing to watch for: make sure your installer air-seals around the frame properly. Even a high-end window leaks heat if there’s a gap between the frame and wall.
Definitely agree on the air sealing—honestly, that step makes or breaks the whole upgrade. I’d add that it’s worth checking the sill pan too. If you’re pulling out old frames and see any water staining or soft wood, take a minute to repair and flash it right before setting the new window. Skipping that can lead to headaches down the road.
Trim matching was a pain at my place too. Ended up custom milling some pieces to get close... still not perfect, but unless you’re staring at it, you’d never know. Energy savings are real, though. My furnace barely runs now compared to before.
Can’t argue with the energy savings, but I’m still not sold on the Jeld-Wens being a total game-changer. Had them put in last fall—installers did all the right stuff, foam, flashing, the works—but I still get a bit of a draft on windy days. Maybe it’s just my old house settling weird. Trim matching was a headache for me too... nothing lines up quite like the original woodwork, but at least it looks decent from a distance.
Energy savings are great, but I get where you’re coming from. I swapped out my old double-hungs for Jeld-Wens a couple years back, and while my heating bill dropped, I still get a weird draft near the bottom sash when it’s gusty. I sometimes wonder if it’s just the quirks of an old house—mine’s from the ‘40s and nothing’s ever perfectly square. Trim matching was a pain for me too... ended up repainting everything just to get it halfway close. Still, I’d say it’s a step up from the rattling originals, even if it’s not perfect.
I still get a weird draft near the bottom sash when it’s gusty. I sometimes wonder if it’s just the quirks of an old house—mine’s from the ‘40s and nothing’s ever perfectly square.
Honestly, I’m not totally convinced it’s just the house being out of square. Even with new windows, if the install isn’t super dialed in (especially with older framing), you can get air leakage at the sill or jambs. I had a similar issue and found that a little low-expansion foam and some careful caulking made a bigger difference than I expected. Trim matching is a whole other headache though... I gave up and just went with a contrasting color after too many failed attempts.