Total blackout or layered curtains: which actually works better?

Heavy curtains plus a little foam strip action is my go-to too—cheap and does the trick, even if it’s not winning any design awards. I’ve always wondered, though, has anyone tried those suction cup blackout shades? I keep seeing ads but they look a bit... sketchy.

- Tried those suction cup blackout shades after seeing way too many ads. Here’s my quick take:
- They *do* block out a surprising amount of light, especially if you press them right up against the glass.
- Downside: they don’t always stay put. Mine would occasionally pop off, especially during temperature swings (hot/cold window).
- Not exactly pretty, but they’re handy for rentals or travel. I used them in a guest room and guests actually liked the “hotel blackout” vibe.

-

“Heavy curtains plus a little foam strip action is my go-to too—cheap and does the trick, even if it’s not winning any design awards.”

- If you’re after true darkness, layered curtains + foam still win for me. Suction cups are a decent quick fix, but not a long-term solution if you want something sturdy and less fussy.

- One weird bonus: the suction cup shades are easy to pack for travel. Used them in a hotel once when the curtains were useless... worked in a pinch.

I’ve tried both the suction cup shades and the curtain layering thing, and honestly, nothing beats a heavy blackout curtain with some foam tape tucked around the edges. My partner thought I was nuts at first, but after one night of zero streetlight leaking in, they were sold. The suction cups are clever for travel, but at home? They just don’t stay put—especially in winter when my old windows get drafty. Not pretty, but I’ll take total darkness over aesthetics any day.

- Heavy blackout curtains + foam tape is hard to beat for blocking light, totally agree.
- I once tried the layered curtain thing with a thermal liner and a regular curtain. Worked okay, but light still crept in around the edges, especially with old frames.
- Suction cup shades slid off my windows after a few weeks—maybe my paint’s too slick?
- For anyone dealing with drafts, I’ve had luck using magnetic strips on metal frames. Not pretty, but it seals things up tight.
- Not gonna win any design awards, but full darkness is worth it for decent sleep...

Blackout curtains with foam tape really do the trick, especially if you’re after pitch black. I’ve seen folks try the layered curtain approach—sometimes it helps with insulation, but yeah, light sneaking in around the edges is a pain. Old window frames just make that worse. I’ve run into the same issue in a couple of older homes I’ve worked on; sometimes the gap is just too big for curtains alone to handle.

Those suction cup shades never seem to last long in my experience either. The paint or even a little dust can mess with the grip. If you want something more secure, I’ve had clients go for Velcro strips or even temporary tension rods to hold blackout fabric right against the frame—doesn’t look fancy, but it’s effective.

Magnetic strips are clever if your frames are metal. For wood frames, I’ve seen people use weatherstripping and even custom-cut plywood panels for total darkness… not exactly pretty, but if you’re desperate for sleep, it works. Sometimes you gotta trade style for function, especially if you live somewhere with early sunrises or streetlights right outside your window.

Yeah, I totally get the struggle with old window frames. My place was built in the 50s and the windows are just... quirky. Tried the layered curtain thing at first—looked nice, but honestly, as soon as the sun hit a certain angle, I had these weird beams of light sneaking in. Drove me nuts.

Sometimes you gotta trade style for function, especially if you live somewhere with early sunrises or streetlights right outside your window.

That’s been my reality. Ended up going with blackout curtains plus a roll of foam tape around the frame, and it made a huge difference. Not exactly winning any design awards, but I can actually sleep past 6am now. I did try those suction cup shades in the guest room, but they fell off after a week—dusty old wood just doesn’t play nice.

I’ve heard of people using cardboard cutouts or even aluminum foil in a pinch, but that feels a little extreme unless you’re really desperate. Anyone else ever try the Velcro trick? I’m tempted to give it a shot just to see if it’s any less fiddly than the tape.

I get the appeal of foam tape for blocking out those stubborn light leaks, but have you noticed any issues with it long-term? Sometimes, especially with older wood frames, the adhesive on tape can pull up paint or leave sticky residue. I’ve seen a few folks regret using it when they went to repaint or replace the windows down the line.

I did try those suction cup shades in the guest room, but they fell off after a week—dusty old wood just doesn’t play nice.

That’s pretty common—suction cups and old, textured wood rarely get along. Velcro might be better, but only if you’re okay with putting sticky strips on both the frame and the fabric. Even then, humidity can make Velcro peel over time.

Honestly, I think there’s something to be said for a good layered curtain setup, especially if you add a heavier liner behind your main curtain. It won’t give you pitch-black darkness like blackout panels plus foam tape, but it looks less “hacked together” and is easier to adjust. Just depends how much you value aesthetics versus total darkness.

Have you ever tried magnetic strips? They’re a bit trickier to install (need a metal frame or to glue magnets), but they can seal out light without as much mess as tape or Velcro. Not perfect, but an option if you’re looking for less fiddly solutions.

You’re right about foam tape—seen plenty of paint pulled up in older homes, especially if it’s been there a while. I’ve also had folks complain about the sticky residue that never quite comes off. Layered curtains do look better, and honestly, you get more flexibility. I’ve installed magnetic strips for a couple clients, but unless the frame is metal or you’re willing to glue, it gets fiddly fast... plus, magnets can lose their grip over time if the alignment’s not perfect. If you want blackout without the mess, custom-fit shades with side channels work best, but they’re pricier. Just depends what tradeoff you’re willing to live with.

- Totally get what you mean about foam tape. Pulled up a chunk of paint in my last apartment trying to get blackout panels off the window... not fun.
- Layered curtains are a solid option for most folks. I like how you can mix blackout with sheer, so you’re not stuck in total darkness all day. Plus, changing out the layers is way less hassle than redoing shades.
- Magnetic strips are clever in theory, but yeah, if your window frames aren’t metal, it’s a pain. I’ve seen folks try to glue them and end up with crooked lines or weak hold.
- Custom-fit blackout shades with side channels really do block almost everything (used them in our nursery) but they’re pricey. Also, if your windows aren’t perfectly square, there’s usually a bit of light sneaking in somewhere.
- One trick: heavy velvet curtains with a wraparound rod—blocks more light than you’d expect and looks cozy for bedrooms.

Honestly, unless you need pitch-black for sleeping during the day or something, layered curtains are probably enough. But for true blackout, nothing beats those custom shades... if your wallet can handle it.

But for true blackout, nothing beats those custom shades... if your wallet can handle it.

Can’t argue with that—custom shades are the gold standard, but I just can’t justify dropping that much for every window. I tried the velvet curtain + wraparound rod trick in our guest room, and honestly, it surprised me. Not pitch black, but enough to block streetlights and early sun. Still, if you’ve got weird window shapes (like we do), layered curtains are way less of a headache than trying to make those shades fit perfectly.