Has anyone here tried using the PACE program for financing windows in Florida? PACE (Property Assessed Clean Energy) is that program where the loan is paid back through your property taxes. I looked into it for my window project. The appealing part was that they don't base approval on your credit score – they base it on your home equity. Also, you can stretch payments out for a long term (I was offered 15 years, and they even have 20-year options).
I got approved for a PACE loan pretty easily, but the interest rate was around 7% (fixed) which is a bit higher than some other options. The idea of having it tied to my property tax bill made me pause. I've heard that if you sell your house, a lot of times the PACE balance either needs to be paid off or it could complicate the sale, because not all buyers or mortgage companies are comfortable assuming it.
In the end, I didn't move forward with PACE and instead leaned toward a more traditional financing method (still deciding which). But I'm really curious if anyone in the Tampa Bay area has gone the PACE route for windows or other improvements, and how it worked out for them. It sounds convenient but I wonder about the real-world pros and cons from someone who’s done it.
I actually did use a PACE program for my window and door upgrade. In my case it was through Ygrene, which is one of the PACE providers in Florida. I'm in Pinellas County and I got about $12k financed for 8 new windows and a hurricane-rated front door. The term I chose was 20 years, which makes the payments quite low (it comes out to a few hundred extra on my property tax bill each year). The interest rate for me was around 6.5% fixed.
The process was indeed very easy – no money down, no traditional credit check; they mostly looked at my home's equity and that I was up to date on my property taxes and mortgage. Within a week I was approved and the contractor (who was part of the Ygrene network) started the work soon after permits, etc.
The pros: super accessible if you don’t have great credit or spare cash, and long repayment period. The cons: the interest rate is higher than a typical mortgage or equity loan, and yes, it places a lien on your property tax. I plan to stay in my home long-term, so I’m not too worried about selling soon. But I am aware if I ever do sell, I might have to pay off the remaining balance because the buyer’s lender might insist on it. Also, I noticed there were some administrative fees rolled into the PACE financing amount.
Overall, I'm happy with it because I couldn't get a normal loan at the time (my credit wasn’t ideal then), and this allowed me to improve my home when I otherwise might not have been able to. But if someone has other options (like a decent credit score for a bank loan), those might be cheaper in the long run. I’d say PACE is a helpful tool if used carefully and one understands the trade-offs.
Another financing route to consider: 0% APR credit card offers. I did this for a portion of my window project. We only had a few windows to replace initially (the rest were done later), and the cost was about $5,000. I opened a new credit card that was offering 0% interest for 15 months on new purchases. I charged the window project to that card.
Then we made aggressive payments each month (roughly $333 a month) to pay off the $5k within the 15-month period. It effectively worked just like those same-as-cash financing deals, but I used a credit card instead. The perk was I also earned some credit card rewards (cash back) on the purchase, which was a nice little bonus — about $50 in my case.
A couple of cautions if someone tries this: Make sure you can get a high enough credit limit on the card to cover your project. Sometimes new cards might not give a big limit if your credit isn't excellent. Also, be disciplined with payments, because once the 0% period ends, any remaining balance will incur interest at the regular (and usually high) rate. And don’t let the card tempt you into spending on other things while you have that balance. We treated our card like a dedicated loan for the windows only.
This method worked for us because our amount was relatively small. I probably wouldn't finance a huge $20k project on a card, unless I had a clear plan to pay it off. But for a smaller job or partial project, credit card promotions can be a handy tool.
Something to keep in mind is the current interest rate environment. Rates have gone up compared to a few years ago. For example, the HELOC I have is at about 8% right now because it's tied to the prime rate. So, oddly enough, a 0% contractor deal or even a fixed 6% personal loan can actually beat a HELOC in terms of cost these days.
A few years back, I did a cash-out refinance of my mortgage to fund some home improvements (including windows) because mortgage rates were super low then (around 3%). That's not really a viable strategy now unless you're coincidentally in the market to refinance for other reasons, since current mortgage rates are much higher.
The point is, definitely compare all options side by side. For instance, if a window company offers 0% for 12 months or a low fixed rate for a couple of years, weigh that against what your bank would give you for a home equity loan or HELOC. Sometimes the window manufacturers or contractors have promotional financing (often subsidized by the manufacturer) which can be surprisingly good. It's part of how they incentivize sales.
For example, a friend of mine got 24 months same-as-cash from a window company’s promo, which was better than any bank could do in terms of short-term free money. On the other hand, if you know you need longer to pay, a bank loan at a moderate interest rate might result in lower overall interest than a short promo followed by high interest. So consider not just the interest rate, but also the timeframe you'll realistically need to pay it off.
I want to highlight something that hasn’t been mentioned yet: the My Safe Florida Home program. This is a state-run grant program in Florida that can help pay for wind mitigation improvements, including impact-resistant windows. It's not exactly a financing option, but it can reduce the amount you need to finance. Basically, if you qualify, the program will match your investment in certain upgrades (like windows, doors, roof improvements) up to a certain amount (I believe up to $10,000 in matching funds).
I actually went through this process last year. You have to get a wind mitigation inspection first through the program. If your home is eligible (mostly it’s for single-family homes, and there are some requirements like homestead status, etc.), you can then apply for grant money. In my case, I was approved for a $5,000 grant to put towards my impact windows. The catch was I had to pay upfront and then get reimbursed, but it was totally worth the paperwork and wait.
So, for example, if your window project costs $15k and you qualify, the program might cover $5k of it, leaving you with $10k to finance or pay. That’s a huge help. I combined this with a low-interest loan for the rest of the cost. If you're going for impact windows (which it sounds like you might, given the hurricane concerns), definitely look into My Safe Florida Home. It made a big difference for me and basically gave me "free" money to reduce my loan burden.
Thank you all so much for the detailed responses so far. This is incredibly helpful!
@megansnowboarder5105 and @mollyc60, I do have some equity and good credit, so a HELOC or personal loan is something I'll definitely compare. I like the idea of a fixed payment like you did, User4, but I also like the flexibility of a HELOC that User2 mentioned. So I'll check with my credit union (I bank with Suncoast as well) and maybe a bank or two for their offers.
@michellechef84 and @writer78, those 0% same-as-cash deals sound very appealing. Your experiences give me confidence that if I go that route, as long as I'm disciplined, it could save me money. I'll make sure to read the fine print like you all suggested. And thanks for pointing out the risk of deferred interest, @michellechef84 – I'll be vigilant about that.
I'm intrigued by the PACE program too now that @rockysinger and @ashleyc30 discussed it, but since we might move in maybe 10 years, I'm leaning away from PACE. It sounds great for accessibility, but I wouldn't want it to complicate a future home sale.
The My Safe Florida Home grant tip from @soniccoder is golden. I had vaguely heard of it, but now I understand it better. I will definitely see if I can apply for that, especially if we go with impact windows.
To give a bit more context, we have 12 windows to replace. The quotes we've gotten so far range from about $12,000 on the low end (for basic non-impact windows) up to about $18,000 for top-tier impact windows. Both Karoly Windows and ProTech Windoors came in around the middle of that range for similar products (impact, good quality vinyl frames). We felt most comfortable with those two companies, which is why I mentioned them.
Now it's a matter of deciding if we go all-in with impact windows or stick to non-impact to save money. I’m leaning toward impact for the hurricane safety and potential insurance savings down the line. Several of you touched on that trade-off. It does increase the upfront cost by a significant amount, which likely means I'd be financing more, but the peace of mind might be worth it.
I'm also going to try negotiating the price a bit, as a couple of you suggested. Maybe I can get the cost down or get some extras thrown in. Once I finalize the contractor and price, I'll have to choose the financing route: either a no-interest promo that I pay off quickly, or a longer-term loan if I need more time.
This thread has given me a solid game plan: I'll compare an external loan vs the contractor financing side by side, ask about any cash discounts, and also pursue that state grant if possible. I really appreciate everyone's insight! If anyone has more thoughts (like negotiating tips or any other do's/don'ts), I'm all ears. This has already been an eye-opener for me.
Great job summarizing, @dennis_rogue. On the negotiating point: absolutely ask for a discount if you plan to pay cash or use your own financing. As you suspect, many contractors have to pay a fee to the financing company for those 0% deals (often anywhere from 5% to 10% of the amount). If you indicate that you're open to paying directly (or via your own loan), sometimes they'll pass some of those savings to you.
When I replaced my windows, I got quotes from three companies. One offered 12 months no interest but their price was a bit higher. I told the salesperson I’d prefer a lower price over the financing deal, and asked if there's a discount for not using the financing. He actually knocked about 7% off the price for me. That turned a $15,000 quote into roughly $13,950, which was great. I then used a bank loan to pay that.
Each company is different though. Some may say the price is the price, regardless of payment method. But it never hurts to ask politely. You can phrase it like, "If I were to pay cash (or have my own financing), is there any flexibility on the price?"
Also, use your multiple quotes as leverage. If you prefer Karoly or ProTech but another company gave you a lower quote for a similar scope, let them know. A reputable company will try to match or at least come closer to keep your business. I’ve found most will price match if it’s genuinely the same work and product.
Regarding impact vs non-impact: since you're leaning impact, maybe also factor in the value of not having to hassle with putting up shutters or plywood for storms. It's a non-monetary factor but it’s a big quality-of-life thing for me at least. And you've got the right idea to get that insurance discount and possibly the state grant to offset the cost.
Sounds like you're on the right track! Keep us posted on how the negotiations and final decisions go.
We went through the impact vs non-impact decision recently, so I can share how we approached it. Our house is in Clearwater, built in 2000. The original windows were not impact-rated. We considered doing cheaper non-impact windows and relying on our existing hurricane shutters to save money upfront, but ultimately chose to invest in impact windows.
Cost-wise, the impact windows were about 40% more expensive in our case (something like $18k for impact vs $13k for non-impact for our whole house). Like you, we didn't want to skimp on safety, so we bit the bullet. We ended up financing a bigger amount because of that choice. We took a home equity loan for $18k over 7 years at a fixed interest (around 5.5%). The monthly payments are around $260, which we felt was manageable.
Now, on the flip side, once the impact windows were installed, our homeowners insurance premium went down about 15%. In dollars, that was roughly $300 a year savings for us. Not massive, but over the life of the windows it adds up. It definitely helps take a bit of sting out of the loan interest we'll pay. And of course, during hurricane season we feel a lot more secure, and we don't have to scramble to put up shutters.
One thing I’ll note: even if you finance a larger amount for impact windows, consider it an investment. These windows should last decades (good ones have 20-30 year warranties on the glass, etc.), and you're effectively storm-proofing your home. So if you can swing the monthly payments with financing, it's a worthy upgrade in my opinion.
We also timed our project in the winter, which is somewhat the "off-season" for window companies here. The company we used (a local one in St. Pete) gave us a small discount – nothing huge, but they waived the permit fees and included an upgraded Low-E glass coating for free. So sometimes the time of year or slow periods can be a negotiating angle too.
There are definitely a lot of ways to skin this cat. One method that used to be popular was the cash-out refinance on your mortgage: basically refinancing your home loan for a larger amount and taking the difference in cash to pay for improvements. I actually did that back in 2020 when rates were very low. I rolled the cost of my windows (and some other upgrades) into a new 30-year mortgage at 3%. It essentially spread the cost out over a long time at a cheap rate.
However, as others have noted, in 2025 rates are much higher, so if you already have a low mortgage rate, you probably don't want to refinance the whole thing just to get cash for windows. You'd end up paying more on your entire mortgage, which doesn’t make sense unless you really need to.
Another angle: some window manufacturers (the big national brands like Andersen, Pella, etc.) offer their own financing promos if you go through their dealers. For example, Renewal by Andersen sometimes advertises things like "Buy now, pay later" or "0 payments for 6 months" or special low APRs. They can be valid deals, but those products/companies are often pricier to begin with, so be cautious. You might find that even with a financing promo, the total cost is higher.
Honestly, sticking with local companies like Karoly or ProTech (which have their own financing options through partners) likely gives a better balance of cost and service.
In my case, I partly financed and partly paid cash. I charged about $5k on a credit card (with a 0% intro APR as a few have mentioned) and paid the rest from savings. I just didn’t want to take a big loan or line of credit. It worked out because I paid off the card in the promo period.
You've got a lot of good choices in front of you. It might come down to what you feel most comfortable with in terms of monthly payment vs total interest paid.
@dennis_rogue Glad to hear you're considering all the angles. With quotes between $12k and $18k for 12 windows, it sounds like you have a range of options (likely non-impact vs impact, as you noted). Karoly and ProTech are both well-regarded, so it's good those are in your top list.
When I was at that decision point, I found it helpful to line up the financing scenarios side by side. For example: "Option A: finance $15k with 0% for 12 months, pay it off in 12 months" versus "Option B: finance $15k with a 5-year loan at 6%, pay X per month." Then see which one I could handle more comfortably. If you can manage the aggressive payoff, the 0% will save you money. If not, a longer term with interest might be easier on your monthly budget.
One small tip: if you do go the HELOC route, some lenders allow interest-only payments for the first 5-10 years. That can keep payments low initially, but remember you’ll still owe the principal eventually. We went interest-only on our HELOC for the first six months just to give ourselves breathing room (since we also were paying a contractor during the install period), and then we started paying principal. It’s flexible like that.
On the impact window front, sounds wise — especially in Florida. We did not get impact windows (we have metal shutters), but every time there's a storm brewing, I wish we had spent the extra. So I think you'll be happy if you go that route.
Don’t forget to get that wind mitigation report updated after your impact windows are in. It’s an easy thing to miss. The inspector will verify your new windows and you'll submit it to insurance for a discount.
Keep us posted – I’m excited for you to get this done!