Energy efficiency FTW! We also saw a drop in our cooling costs after window + insulation upgrades. It’s really satisfying to see those numbers go down for a change, isn’t it? Also, @rockysinger, good call on inspecting deliveries. Our windows came straight on the morning of install in a big truck, so I didn’t have a chance to pre-inspect. But the crew leader did a check as they unloaded and noticed one was wrong size (like you experienced). It was a bathroom window that came too small. They boarded that opening and we waited about 10 more days for the correct one. Minor hassle, but I’m glad the crew was on the ball. If I ever do this again, I’ll definitely be proactive in checking everything.
Another minor thing I’ll add: the sticker removal. All our new windows had those big NFRC/energy code stickers on the glass. After install, I spent an afternoon peeling them off and scraping adhesive. A little rubbing alcohol or Goo Gone helped get the residue off. It’s trivial, but I wish I had asked the installers to remove them – some did, some they left on. Not a huge deal, but just adding to the list of “little things you don’t think about.” 😉
By the way, this thread really should be pinned or something. It’s the most useful set of info on Tampa window replacement I’ve ever seen in one place!
Quick update from my side as well (6 months post-install now): everything’s holding up great. We went through a rainy season and a tropical storm with no leaks – I was nervous the first big rain, but the windows and the install passed the test. 🎉
One small issue did pop up: a couple of months in, I noticed a tiny gap in the caulking on one window where the frame meets the exterior stucco. Probably due to the building shifting or the caulk settling. I ran a bead of silicone caulk over it myself (color-matched, not that anyone but me will ever notice). No more gap. So my tip is to do a walk-around inspection every few months in the first year to catch any little caulk separations or settling issues. Florida’s heat and summer thunderstorms can be tough on sealants, so a little maintenance goes a long way.
Also, I have to second what others have said about new windows being a bit tight initially. Even 6 months later, our large sliders still need a firm push to get moving. The installer told me to spray a dry silicone lubricant along the tracks if needed. I did that and it helped a lot. Now they slide smoothly but still seal tight. So don’t fret if your windows are hard to open at first – that can be normal.
Overall, zero regrets. I actually enjoy the sound of not hearing much sound, if that makes sense. 😄 Our condo is right by a busy part of the beach and the difference in noise is astonishing.
I haven’t seen anyone talk about older historic homes, so I’ll chime in. My house in Tampa Heights was built in 1925, and we replaced the ancient wood windows last year. That was an adventure:
Historic District Rules: Because our neighborhood is in a historic overlay, I couldn’t just put in any modern-looking window on the front facade. We had to get windows that look like the originals (in our case, wood windows with the same grid pattern) or the historic committee wouldn’t approve it. I wish I knew about this earlier because it limited our choices and increased cost. We ended up with wood-clad windows for the front (expensive), and we used more affordable vinyl double-hungs on the sides/back where it’s not visible from the street. So if you’re in an old neighborhood, check any historic preservation guidelines – you might need specific materials or styles.
Removing Old Weight Pockets: Our original windows had those pulley and weight counterbalances (old school tech!). When those came out, there were hollow cavities on each side of the window frame. The installers actually filled those voids with foam insulation before putting the new window in, which is great for energy efficiency. But one window had some surprise termite damage in those pockets. We had to get a little framing repair done there and I had a termite treatment done around that area afterward. Was not expecting to deal with pest control during a window job, but with old houses, anything can happen once you open things up. Heads up to anyone with very old wood windows: be prepared for hidden issues like rot or pests.
Interior Trim: We had beautiful wide wood casing trim around the windows inside. I was worried it’d get ruined. The crew was super careful and managed to take most of it off and reinstall it without damage. I did have to repaint the trim after, but at least we kept the original look. If you have old molding you love, discuss it with your installer. A good one will try to save it.
At the end of the day, our old house still looks historic (we maintained the divided-light look on the front windows), but performs like a modern one with the new windows. No more drafts – it used to feel like the wind was blowing right through the closed windows on cold nights. And outside noise is so much less, even with wood windows (we got double-pane in the wood as well). It was a hassle navigating rules and some extra repairs, but worth it. Just wish I’d known about the extra red tape and potential for surprise repairs – I would have budgeted a bit more time and money.
@phill68, thanks for sharing! I’m in a 1930s bungalow in Seminole Heights considering window updates, and the historic look is a big concern for me. Did you go with a specific brand of wood-clad windows for the front? And how did they compare cost-wise to the vinyl ones in the back (if you don’t mind my asking)?
Also, I have those weight pockets too and I’ve been nervous about what’s inside (hoping not termites like you had!). Sounds like foam filling is the way to go once they’re out.
@markbaker838 – We ended up choosing Jeld-Wen wood clad windows for the front (they have an aluminum cladding on the exterior for durability, but wood inside). They have the option to add the old-school grille design. They were about 2x the price of a standard vinyl window of the same size. For example, one front window roughly 30”x48” was about $1,000 (wood clad), whereas a similar vinyl one for the side was around $500. So definitely a premium for that historic look.
The historic review board was mainly concerned with the exterior appearance. They approved the aluminum cladding because it was a similar color and had the same muntin (grid) pattern as the originals. If I had gone full vinyl on the front, I doubt they’d have approved – vinyl frames often are thicker and would change the look too much.
In terms of performance: those wood windows are actually slightly less airtight than the top-notch vinyls we put in elsewhere (I can feel a teeny draft if it’s super windy, whereas the vinyls are airtight). But they still are way better than the old single-pane wood ones.
And yes, definitely fill those weight pockets with insulation when they come out. It’s like gaining two mini wall insulation sections you never had before. Our bedrooms feel less drafty now thanks to that.
Good luck with your bungalow! It’s a balance of preserving character and modernizing comfort. It can be done, just takes some extra legwork.
@phill68 Yikes, termites in the window frame – that’s a Florida special surprise right there. Glad you caught it. Reading that, I just made a note to self to spray some preventative termite treatment around my window frames now that I have things freshly sealed up.
Also, thanks for sharing the historic angle. Not my situation, but super interesting how you blended old and new. And I hear you on old windows being drafty; I don’t miss that at all.
One small thing I’d add from my experience: think about the aesthetics and functionality of things like window grids (grilles) and screen types before you order.
When we replaced our windows, our old ones had those colonial grids (divided squares look). We were tired of that and opted for clear, unobstructed glass on the new windows – no grids at all for a more modern look. It looks fantastic and really opened up our view. Buuut, our house went from looking classic to a bit more contemporary, which we like, but one of our neighbors actually asked if we were going to add grids back because it changed the look. (Nosy neighbors, haha.) The HOA didn’t require grids, so it’s fine, but I realize now it gave the house a noticeably different appearance.
I personally love the clearer view. Cleaning is easier with no grids, too. But if I were in a super traditional style home, I might have kept some grids for character. Another friend of mine did the opposite: her old windows had no grids and she added grids in the top sash of her new ones for a craftsman look.
So my lesson: decide on grids or no grids based on the look you want long-term. It’s something you can’t change later without replacing the sash or entire window. I spent so much time on glass choices and frame color that I underestimated how the grid decision would impact the look.
Also, about screens: I didn’t realize there are options (half screens vs. full screens on double-hung windows, for example). Ours came with half-screens (only the lower half where the window opens is screened). It’s fine for us and actually lets more light in through the top half since there’s no screen there. But if you like to open both halves of a double-hung window, you’d want a full screen. Just something to think about. Our installer defaulted to half-screens and we didn’t even discuss it. In hindsight, I’m okay with it, but some people might prefer full coverage. So ask about that too!
Our project went mostly smoothly, but here’s a lesson from a mismeasurement fiasco: double-check your window measurements (or rather, have the company re-measure before ordering).
The salesperson from one company measured all our windows for the quote. After we signed with them, they sent out their expert to take final measurements (thankfully). Guess what – one big living room window was recorded wrong by a couple of inches in the initial quote. If they hadn’t double-checked, the window ordered would have been the wrong size and not fit. 😬
Even with the double-check, we still had a hiccup: one smaller window was made 4 inches too tall due to some confusion with how they measured the rough opening. They only discovered this on install day when it literally wouldn’t fit in the hole! The crew had to board that opening up and rush-order the correct size. We slept with plywood in that window for two weeks, which was… not fun.
So my advice: if possible, be present for the measurement phase and ask the rep or tech to confirm critical dimensions. When you get the invoice or order sheet, check the sizes listed if they provide them. In our case we didn’t see the final sizes until the window showed up and had a label with dimensions.
Most good companies will do an official re-measure like ours did, but mistakes still happen. Had I known, I would have politely asked, “Are you sure that’s right? Can we verify?” on that one window that looked oddly sized on paper. I’m not saying measure it all yourself (that’s their job), but a little extra attention could save delays.
The saying “measure twice, cut once” exists for a reason – or in this case measure twice, manufacture once. 😅
One more piece of advice that I haven’t seen emphasized enough: before the installers pack up and leave, do a thorough walkthrough and test everything.
I know @matthewcoder3090 mentioned a checklist, but I want to reinforce how important this is with my personal story: After our install, I did a walkthrough with the crew and found two issues:
One of the bedroom windows wouldn’t lock properly. The latch was not aligning with the catch. The installer realized the window needed a slight adjustment in how it was shimmed. He took about 10 extra minutes to tweak it, and boom, it locked smoothly.
A tiny gap in caulking on an exterior frame – it was hard to see, but I noticed a little sliver of light when I was outside inspecting. It turned out they missed caulking a 3-inch section at the top of one window. Easy fix on the spot when I pointed it out – they hit it with silicone before putting away the ladders.
The installers were super nice about it, but I got the impression that if I hadn’t caught those before they left, it might have been a hassle to get them back out later for such small things. They had me sign off that the job was completed to my satisfaction, so definitely don’t sign until you’ve checked everything.
Test every window: open it, close it, lock it, unlock it. Look at the caulking lines around each window inside and out if you can. Make sure any screens are in and not bent, and that they slide if they’re sliders. Minor things can be fixed in minutes while the crew and tools are there, but can become a headache if discovered days later.
I know by the end of an install day you might be exhausted (I was) and just happy it’s done, but that 15-minute check will ensure no lingering issues. After all, you’re paying good money – you deserve a perfect (and complete) job.
Piggybacking on the screens mention by @psage55 – it’s true, not all screens are the same, and it can be an oversight if you don’t discuss it.
Our double-hung windows came with half screens by default. That’s fine for us because we usually only open the bottom sash. But one thing I didn’t realize: half screens mean the top half of the window has nothing when the window is closed, which looks a bit cleaner (nice), but if I ever want to open the top half for ventilation (like dropping the top sash down), I can’t unless I physically move the screen up or get a full screen. Some window designs let you slide the half-screen up and down; ours don’t – they’re fixed at the bottom.
It’s a small detail, but worth knowing. If you love maximum airflow or tend to open the top, consider asking for full screens. Some companies might charge a little extra for full screens on double-hungs.
On sliders, we had one slider window that oddly came with no screen at all! I pointed it out and the installer realized the manufacturer forgot to ship one. They had to order a screen after the fact. We went a few weeks unable to open that window (didn’t want bugs coming in). Lesson: make sure every window that should have a screen has one installed before the job is done.
In Florida, the last thing you want is a window without a screen when the weather’s nice – the mosquitoes will swarm in uninvited. 🦟 The company made it right and got us the screen, but I was annoyed I had to ask.
Now I’m enjoying breezes without bugs, and the half vs. full screen thing isn’t a big issue for us day-to-day, but definitely something to decide on when ordering.