@gaming_emily, let's see... a few little surprises or lessons from my experience:
- I had a security camera near one window and the installers had to remove it to work. I wasn't home at the time, and they just left it off (not their job to remount it). Not a huge deal, but if you have cameras, doorbell cams, etc., you might want to take them off beforehand and be ready to put them back.
- If you have a two-story house, they might need to use some big ladders or even scaffolding for upstairs windows. My friend had this happen and a section of his garden got trampled. Try to clear around those areas (and maybe cover delicate plants). Also, second-story installs might take longer or even an extra day.
- Expect a bit of cosmetic touch-up after. Inside, I had a few scuffs on the wall paint next to windows, and outside the stucco patch, once painted, was perfect but I had to paint it (the contractor did the patch but not the painting). If you have window sills that were old, they might replace them or you might have to repaint them. So factor in maybe a handyperson or a weekend of touching up paint after all is done.
- Oh, one more: keep at least one window accessible/openable during the project in case you need to run a power cord or something in/out (or if you need fresh air). They took all mine out at once at one point, and my fridge delivery showed up – we had to run an extension cord out the front window opening (no window there) to power the delivery lift, lol. Not really a common scenario, but yeah.
Overall, not too bad. Window projects are one of the more straightforward renos I've done.
This might be slightly off topic, but relevant: After you put in these new windows, consider getting a wind mitigation inspection (if you haven't had one recently) for your home insurance.
When I got my new windows and doors, I had an inspector do a wind mit report (they check your roof tie-downs, opening protections, etc.). Having all impact windows/doors earned me a credit on my insurance. The report basically shows the insurance company that your home is better protected in a windstorm. Given how crazy insurance rates are in Florida these days, every bit helps. I saved a few hundred bucks a year that way, which over time helps offset the window cost.
Plus, it's just nice to have that peace of mind that you're meeting a lot of the storm safety benchmarks for older homes.
For anyone who's curious, I just want to throw in some ballpark costs I encountered recently, since budgeting is such a big part of this:
- I got quotes for 10 windows (average size 36x60, one was a small bathroom one) and 1 sliding patio door, all impact, vinyl frames, Low-E glass.
- Quotes ranged from $18,000 (small local outfit) to $28,000 (big name company).
- I ended up going with a mid-priced quote around $22k from a reputable local guy. This included everything: installation, permit, removing old windows, stucco repair, etc.
- The sliding door itself was about $4k of that cost (they're pricey). Each window averaged around $1,500 - $1,800 depending on size.
- I financed half of it through a credit union home improvement loan at ~5% interest, and paid the rest cash.
Just sharing so folks have a rough idea. Your mileage will vary depending on the number of windows, size, options, and companies. But in Tampa Bay for impact windows, you're likely looking at somewhere around $1,200-$2,000 per window installed these days, and doors $3k-5k each.
You all are incredible. This thread turned into a masterclass on window replacement! I'm feeling much more confident now. 😊
Here's my plan based on the advice:
- Get 3-4 quotes from local companies (including those sponsors mentioned).
- Go with vinyl, impact, Low-E windows for sure. Probably white frames to match the house (and likely HOA okay).
- Also replace the old slider with an impact slider at the same time.
- Make sure the contract spells out permit, install details, cleanup, warranty, etc.
- Prepare the house before install (move furniture, take down curtains, etc., as advised).
- Schedule it, then do a nice thorough inspection with the installer and inspector.
- Lastly, get that wind mitigation inspection for insurance after it's all done.
I'm excited to do this. Thank you all again. I hope this thread helps other Tampa Bay homeowners down the line too. I'll update you when it's done (might be a few months).
@design_tyler, glad to hear you've got a solid plan! One more thing to add – the federal tax credit. As of this year (2025), there's an Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit that gives you up to $600 credit for windows and $250 for an exterior door, or up to $1,200 total per year for efficiency improvements. If you get Energy Star-rated windows and doors, you should qualify. It's not a huge amount, but $600-$1200 back at tax time is still money in your pocket. Just save your receipts and make sure the windows/doors you choose are Energy Star certified (most impact Low-E windows are).
There used to be state programs too, but I think My Safe Florida Home is more about the grant (which you mentioned you're not doing, since you're going all impact out of pocket). So yeah, enjoy those new windows and the lower electric bills! Keep us posted on how it goes.
I just did a similar project in Gulfport (south Pinellas). Can confirm, this thread is spot-on with advice. One minor thing about maintenance after you have new windows:
- If they're vinyl frames, just wash them with soapy water occasionally to keep them clean. Avoid abrasives.
- For the moving parts (like tracks or hinges), an occasional spray of silicone lubricant keeps things operating smoothly.
- If you live near the coast or have sprinklers that hit the windows, you might see some corrosion on metal parts over time; just rinse things off once in a while.
- Check the caulking once a year or so to ensure it's not cracked, especially after the first year as the house settles with the new windows. If you see any gaps, have the installer or a handyman touch it up to prevent water intrusion.
But really, new windows are pretty low maintenance compared to what you might be used to with old ones (no more scraping paint or dealing with stuck frames!).
I appreciate the cost breakdown @philosophy119 provided. I got my own quotes recently and they were in that ballpark too. Decided to go with a small local company that had good references. They are ordering PGT windows for me.
I'll add a tip: visit a showroom if you can. I went to a window showroom (one company had a little showroom with different brands on display). Seeing and operating the windows in person helped a lot. You can feel the difference in build quality and see things like how easy the locks are to use, or how thick the frames are. I was on the fence between PGT and CWS and after seeing both, I liked the mechanism on the PGT single-hungs better (the lock also vents the window open a crack, which is neat).
Also, ask about screen quality. Some cheaper windows have flimsy screens. Others offer upgraded screens (like micro-mesh to keep no-see-ums out, which can be nice if you open windows in the evening). My PGT ones came with standard screens, but I opted to upgrade the patio door screen to a heavy-duty one because those get a lot of use.
For anyone considering partial DIY or helping the process: One thing I did was remove all the old windows myself before the crew came. It saved them time and I negotiated a little discount for the labor I did. BUT be warned: once you take out an old window, you basically have a hole in your house, so you need to be ready to put the new one in or have a board to cover it if there's a delay. I only did this on the morning of installation day for the windows they were actively working on, and I only did it because I have construction experience.
If you do any prep like that, wear gloves and safety glasses (breaking glass is obviously a risk). And have a tarp down to catch debris. The reason I mention this is some folks like to "participate" or do parts of projects to save money. Most window companies won't want you to because of liability, but my contractor was cool with it since I basically acted as a free helper for the day under their supervision (I also happen to know the owner). Probably not typical, but just sharing in case someone thinks of doing demo themselves.
Honestly, probably easier to just let the pros handle it entirely. I was exhausted by the end of the day even doing just part of the work!
How do these new windows hold up over time? I mean, do vinyl frames discolor? Do the seals fail? I'm hoping this is a once-in-30-years kind of thing.
@psychology_mario, good question. High-quality windows should last for decades:
- Vinyl Discoloration: If you get good vinyl (with UV inhibitors), they should stay pretty stable. Cheap vinyl from decades ago did yellow sometimes, but technology improved. I have neighbors with 15-year-old vinyl windows that still look white and clean. Just avoid using anything like chlorine bleach on them as @maggiebuilder said.
- Seal Failure: This is when double-pane windows get foggy. It can happen, even with good brands, but it's not super common. Many impact window manufacturers give a 20-year or lifetime warranty on the insulated glass seal. So if it fogs, they'd provide a new sash or pane. The key is proper installation too; if windows are flexing due to improper shimming, seals can fail early. So again, a good install is key.
- Hardware: Things like locks, balances (the mechanism that holds up a single or double-hung), and rollers might wear out in 10-20 years, but those can usually be replaced. Many companies also warrant those for some time.
- Screens: Those will probably be what you replace every so often, especially if a screen gets a tear. But that's minor.
All in all, you're right: ideally this is a once in a generation project. The windows I replaced were original from 1980 and they lasted ~40 years, but were in bad shape at the end. I'm expecting these new ones to easily last that or more (and perform much better throughout their life).