@builder55, interestingly, Florida kind of has its own rhythms for this:
- Winter (Nov-Feb): Cooler and drier, which is nice for installation (for both crew comfort and materials). Many snowbirds or part-timers might schedule work in winter when they're down here. But it's generally a steady time for window companies. You might find some holiday or new year promotions.
- Spring (Mar-May): A lot of people start thinking about hurricane season coming and rush to get windows ordered. This is busy season because people want installs before August if possible. Sometimes if you wait until spring to order, the backlog might push you into hurricane season for the install.
- Summer (Jun-Aug): It's rainy and hot. Installers work through it, but rain can delay single-day installs (they won't remove a window if a squall is coming through). And if a tropical storm or hurricane is looming, everything gets paused. Surprisingly, some deals can be had in late summer, but it's a bit of a gamble with weather.
- Fall (Sept-Oct): Right after hurricane season peak, some folks are relieved if we got missed by storms and maybe hold off, others are getting ahead for next year.
I wouldn't say there's a huge price difference, but scheduling might be easier in winter or very late fall. I did mine in January and the company had an opening the next week (windows were in stock already due to a canceled order). They gave me a small discount, maybe because they wanted to keep crews busy after the holidays.
Reading all this, I'm convinced I need to do my windows soon too. I have one of those 1950s block homes in St. Pete with jealousies (those crank louvers) in a couple rooms and aluminum sliders elsewhere. They are awful for energy and I'm tired of propping some open with a stick! 😂
Quick thing I can share: my neighbor did a DIY installation of some non-impact vinyl windows from Home Depot. They were trying to save money. They got the windows in, but then when they tried to get insurance, the insurer was like "nope, those aren't impact or protected". They ended up adding accordion shutters after the fact to satisfy the insurance. In hindsight they wish they'd just gotten impact windows from the start. So if you go non-impact to save money, keep in mind you might need to invest in shutters and that can eat into the savings (plus it's a hassle to deploy shutters, though accordion ones aren't too bad).
Also, consider the resale value: impact windows are a selling point. A buyer in Florida will definitely see value in new impact windows versus old single panes or windows that need separate storm protection.
Wow, I'm blown away by all the responses. Thank you so much! 😍 A few follow-ups from my side:
- Impact vs Shutters: I'm convinced to go impact. It sounds simpler and safer overall. I don't want to be that person wrestling aluminum shutters when a storm is coming (or worse, having to put up plywood).
- Vinyl vs Aluminum: Leaning vinyl from what folks said, for the energy efficiency and lower maintenance. My house is one-story, pretty typical windows... nothing huge like a big span that might demand aluminum. So vinyl should be fine.
- Contractor Search: I'll definitely check out those mentioned (Károly, Pro Tech, etc.) and a couple others. I prefer to support local businesses with good reps.
- Permit & Timing: Will do on the permit. Good to know about the timing... I'm thinking to get quotes now (spring) and maybe place an order soon to hopefully get installation done by late summer or early fall. If it slips to next winter, not the end of the world.
Another question: doors – I also have an old sliding glass door to the patio that probably should be replaced. Is it smart to do that at the same time? It seems logical to bundle with the window project, maybe even get a package deal. Has anyone done windows and doors together?
@design_tyler - Definitely do the sliding door with the windows if you can afford it. I did mine together. A few points on doors:
- Impact Sliding Glass Doors: These are heavy beasts but so worth it. Old aluminum sliders are super inefficient and often get foggy if the seal breaks. The new impact sliders glide nicely and have dual locks. Just like windows, you'll want an impact door or a shutter for it to meet code.
- Install Considerations: The slider install can be a bit more invasive than a window because they might have to remove some of the surrounding frame or trim. But if the crew is already mobilized at your house, it's efficient to do it all at once. One permit will cover all windows and doors usually, so it's simpler paperwork-wise.
- French Doors vs Sliders: If you have space, some people swap a slider for French doors with impact glass. French doors can give a high-end look, but they also take space to swing and might not seal quite as tight as a good slider. We stuck with a slider for space reasons.
- Bundle Deal: A lot of companies will give a slight discount per opening if you're doing more. Like maybe the 10th window is free or some percentage off if you also do the door. Can't hurt to negotiate that when you get quotes.
So yeah, bundle if you can swing it. I love having everything new – once the windows were done, that old slider was an eyesore and we were like "why didn't we do this too?" so we did, haha.
I live in an HOA community in Wesley Chapel. If anyone here is in a similar situation, don't forget to check your HOA's rules or approval process for new windows. Some of our Tampa Bay subdivisions (especially townhomes or villas) have rules about external appearance. For instance, my HOA required any replacement windows to have white frames (no bronze or black frames allowed) and they needed grids (grilles) that match the community style on the front windows. Also, we had to submit the product info and get the architectural committee to sign off before installation.
It wasn't a big deal, but it did add like 3 weeks of waiting for the next HOA meeting to get the rubber stamp. Would've been a bummer if I scheduled an install and then the HOA said "nope". So just a heads up to check that.
Also, minor tip: if you do have white vinyl windows, apparently you shouldn't use harsh cleaners on them (like bleach) because it can damage the finish. Mild soap and water is best for cleaning frames. And for the tracks, a little silicone spray keeps the windows sliding nicely.
This conversation is gold. Thanks all. I have a technical query: Do new window installations in Florida require any changes to meet egress requirements? My bedroom windows are kind of small (like 30" x 30"). If I replace them, do I need to enlarge to meet some code for escape in a fire? I'm not sure if my current ones are technically big enough for egress, but since the house was built in the 80s, maybe it was code then. I'm worried if I pull a permit, the inspector might tell me I have to make the opening bigger (which would be a much bigger project).
User8 (building dept rep, replying): @hollysnowboarder, egress is a good thing to consider. Florida Residential Code does have requirements for bedroom egress windows (for fire escape) – typically a minimum opening size (width, height, and square feet of openable area) and max sill height. However, if you're just replacing windows, usually you're not required to make the opening larger as long as the replacement window is equal to or greater than the existing opening size. There are exceptions that allow existing openings to remain as is, even if they wouldn't meet new-construction egress standards, because it's not a "change of occupancy" or anything, just a replacement.
For example, if your current window clear opening is, say, 4 square feet and code calls for 5.7 sq ft for new builds, you can put in a new window that also has a 4 sq ft opening and be grandfathered in. But you cannot reduce the opening size. So make sure the window style you choose fits in a way that preserves or increases opening size. Some people go from single-hung to horizontal slider or casement in bedrooms to maximize egress opening.
This is definitely something to discuss with your contractor. A knowledgeable installer will ensure whatever windows they order for bedrooms meet the code or the exception criteria. If you wanted to proactively make them bigger for safety, that can be done, but it involves cutting the wall/framing – a bigger project indeed.
For those who have done this, how was the inspection process? Did the inspector actually test every window or just random ones? I'm just curious what to expect on inspection day after install.
@jmartinez67, during my inspection (City of Clearwater inspector), he walked around and basically:
- Checked the permit and paperwork, asked the contractor's rep (who was there) a couple questions.
- Randomly opened a couple of the windows to ensure they operated and latched properly.
- Looked at the caulking and attachment points on a few windows (they had to leave one screw visible by not putting the vinyl cover on it, to show the proper screw type and spacing, then he okayed them to cover it).
- Checked the door thoroughly (in my case, because that's a big opening, he looked at all the screws in the track, the door locks, etc.).
- Verified the windows had the impact glazing markings (the glass has a etch or label showing it meets the impact standard).
- The inspector was in and out in like 20 minutes for 7 openings. Pretty smooth.
Usually, if you hired a reputable company, they know what inspectors are looking for and do it right. My contractor had a rep (like a quality control guy) come out during inspection to handle any issues, but there were none. I just stood by and listened, didn't have to do anything as the homeowner.
I'm still not clear on one thing: what's the difference in installation between impact and non-impact windows? Like, is there extra reinforcement needed for impact, or is it just the glass difference? Wondering why impact costs so much more, aside from the glass itself.
User12 (handyman, replying): @apolloparker907, the installation process is basically the same, but:
- Impact windows usually have beefier frames and sometimes require more fastening points. The Florida Product Approval for each window will specify how it must be installed (type of screws/anchors, spacing, embedment, etc.). Non-impact might have slightly different requirements but generally similar. Installers here follow those documents to the letter, impact or not.
- The cost difference is mostly in the materials: laminated impact glass (two panes with a clear interlayer like a car windshield) is more expensive. The frames on impact-rated windows often have reinforcements too. Also, impact windows have to be tested and approved, which adds to manufacturer cost (which they pass to us).
- Sometimes the installer will also cut back more of the exterior to properly anchor impact windows to the structure (since we really don't want them blowing out). But a good install is a good install, impact or not.
In short, from your point of view, the installation will look the same (rip out old, put in new, screw it in, foam, caulk, finish). But behind the scenes, the impact windows have more stringent requirements they follow. Always use a contractor who is experienced with impact installations – they should give you the certification paperwork for your windows too, which you might need for insurance or future reference.
Can anyone share any unexpected hiccups or surprises they encountered? Like things you wish you knew before replacing windows?