Great thread, loving all the advice here. I recently finished replacing the windows and the front door on my home in Brandon (east of Tampa). One aspect nobody's mentioned yet: the mess and prep. I was caught off guard by how much dust and debris comes out when the old windows are removed—especially if they cut into stucco or drywall.
Prep tips:
- Take down your blinds, curtains, and any window sensors (for alarm systems) before the crew arrives. I forgot to take down one set of blinds and they got pretty dusty.
- Move furniture away from the windows. I ended up with some stucco chunks on my couch (doh!).
- Cover stuff with old sheets or drop cloths if you can, especially in the work areas.
- Let your neighbors know if you're in close quarters—there will be constant hammering, drilling, and maybe even some glass breaking as they demo the old windows. It's noisy.
The crew should clean up after, but there will still be a fine layer of dust to wipe down in the rooms. So just be ready for a mini post-construction cleanup.
One more thing: if you have a wired alarm system, after window install you’ll need to get the alarm company to come reattach those sensor magnets on the new windows. I had to do that to make sure my security system still chimes when a window opens.
I'm learning a ton here. Thanks to everyone. Quick Q: What about window styles? My current windows are old aluminum single-pane sliders. I'm seeing there's single-hung, double-hung, casement, awning, horizontal rollers, etc. Any recommendations for Florida specifically? I kind of like the idea of awning or casement windows for better seals (since they crank out and press tight against the seal), but most neighbors seem to have single or double-hung. Thoughts?
@shadowartist, great question on styles! I actually debated this myself. Here's what I found / have seen around Tampa Bay:
- Single-hung (fixed top sash, bottom slides up) and Double-hung (both top and bottom sashes move) are very common. The benefit is you can have screens and they look like a classic window. Double-hung lets you open the top for ventilation too, which can be nice if you want to vent out hot air (though let's be real, in FL we don't open windows a ton in summer due to heat/humidity).
- Horizontal sliders (like your old ones) are also common especially for wide window openings. Easy to use, but over time the rollers can wear. The new ones are much smoother than the 1980s ones though!
- Casement/Awning windows: These crank-out types seal really well and can catch breezes. I love awnings for like bathrooms or above the kitchen sink because you can leave them open a bit even in a light rain (they tilt outward, rain slides off). Casements (side-hinged) can get more airflow, but one downside: they can be more expensive and the cranks can wear out or break (had that happen on my parent's house up north). Also, if you have a screen, it's on the inside of the window for casements/awnings, which some people don't like (means you dust the screen inside).
- Picture windows (fixed) - great for views, not for ventilation. Often you do a combo, like a big picture window with flanking casements, etc.
In my home, I went mostly single-hung for a classic look, but did one awning in the bathroom and one casement in the kitchen for functionality. All impact-rated. The consistency on the front of the house looks nice (all the same style and grille pattern), and the functional ones are on the side/back where you don't notice the difference from the street.
Loving this discussion! As a local handyman (based in Largo), I've seen the aftermath of both good and bad window installs. A couple more pointers:
- Full Frame vs Pocket Replacement: If your existing window frames are rotted or your opening is out of square, a full frame replacement is best (they take everything out down to the studs and put in a new window with nailing fins, just like new construction). It gives the best seal and structural strength. If your frames are in good shape and you want to preserve interior trim etc., a pocket (insert) replacement might be possible where they put a new window inside the old frame. Most impact windows here are done full frame though, because older frames often aren't beefy enough or compatible.
- Waterproofing: With our heavy rain, the installers should use flashing tape and sill pans or caulking properly to waterproof around the window. Poor waterproofing = leaks = mold down the road. So make sure the contractor stands by their work if a problem arises. After the first big rain, double-check for any water intrusion just in case.
- Locks and Security: Impact windows usually come with decent locks. But if security is a huge concern for you, ask about additional locks or reinforcements. Some people add window pin locks or aftermarket locks for peace of mind, though I think it's overkill with impact glass unless you're in a ground-floor apartment or something.
All the homeowners I've worked with in Tampa Bay say the same as folks above: they wish they'd done their windows sooner once they see the benefits.
Anyone have experience with financing the window project? I'm in a situation where I need the windows (they're barely opening and original from 1985) but I don't have all the cash on hand for a full home replacement. Are there good financing deals or should I do a Home Equity Line of Credit (HELOC) or something? I even heard something about PACE loans in Florida (some energy program that ties to property taxes)? Trying to explore options.
@gaming_duke, yes financing is pretty common for window jobs because they're pricey. Some options:
- Contractor Financing: Many companies (like Károly Windows & Doors, Window World, etc.) offer financing plans, sometimes promo 0% for a year or low interest for a few years. Read the fine print though – sometimes the 0% is only if you pay it off in 12 months, otherwise interest retroactively applies.
- HELOC: This can be a good route since interest rates might be lower than a personal loan and it's tax-deductible interest in some cases (since it's home improvement). Just make sure you can handle the payments; you're basically betting your house since the house is collateral.
- PACE (Property Assessed Clean Energy) loans: Yes, Florida has PACE financing for energy-efficient improvements, which can include impact windows. The loan gets repaid through your property tax bill. Upside: no credit check and can stretch out up to 20 years, so lower payments. Downside: liens on your property can complicate selling or refinancing, and some PACE programs have been criticized for high fees or not fully explaining terms. If you go PACE, research the provider (Ygrene and Renew are two that operate in FL).
- My Safe Florida Home Grants: Since you're a new homeowner, also check if any state programs (like the My Safe Florida Home program that was revived recently) are offering grants for wind mitigation. Last I heard, they give matching grants up to $10k for things like impact windows, but you have to get a wind mitigation inspection first. It's worth looking into – basically free money if you qualify and follow the process.
So yeah, plenty of ways to finance it. I'd say get quotes first, see the total, then talk to your bank and also ask the window companies what they offer.
This might be a bit left field, but any opinions on Window World or other franchise dealers in Tampa Bay? I see their ads for "lowest price" windows and I'm tempted because budget is tight. Do they hold up? Or should I stick to local specialists like the ones mentioned?
@elizabethhill590, I actually got a quote from Window World Tampa during my shopping process. They were indeed one of the lower prices for similar specs. However, I was a bit put off by a few things:
- Their windows are decent, but not top-of-the-line. I believe they were offering an impact vinyl window (their branded series). Reviews online were mixed – some people are happy, others had issues with things like caulking or service after the sale.
- The salesperson was a little pushy about signing that day for a "special deal". I'm never a fan of that tactic.
- They subcontract their installs. Now, subcontractors can be fine, but I prefer a company that has their own install crews (feels like they have more skin in the game for quality).
I ended up not going with them. But I have a coworker who did, mainly because of cost, and he was okay with the outcome. A couple of minor service issues that were resolved slowly, but window quality was fine for the price he paid. If you go that route, just do your homework, check reviews, and make sure they're giving you NFRC-rated windows with good energy numbers for our climate zone (they should provide an NFRC sticker for each window showing U-factor and SHGC – lower is better for those, generally). And ensure impact glass if you want hurricane protection, of course.
A point about vinyl vs aluminum that I want to bring up (as someone who had a long debate with my spouse on this): In Florida, vinyl windows are more popular now, yes, but not all vinyl is created equal. Look for uPVC or vinyl that has UV stabilizers. The sun here can be brutal. Cheaper vinyl might yellow or get brittle over time. The good stuff (like PGT's WinGuard vinyl series, Custom Window Systems (CWS), or Simonton's StormBreaker Plus, etc.) is engineered for Florida sun and heat. They have things like welded corners, multi-chambered frames for strength, etc.
Aluminum windows, especially the modern ones with a thermal break, are still a solid choice too. High-end aluminum can last a long time and usually has a thinner profile (more glass, less frame). They are very common in high-rise condos because they can hold very large panes of impact glass. If you have a mid-century modern house or want that slim frame, you might lean aluminum. Just be aware aluminum conducts heat, so you'll want thermal breaks and good Low-E glass to reduce heat transfer. And if you're super close to the saltwater, sometimes aluminum can corrode if not properly coated/maintained (though most are powder-coated and fine).
So bottom line: both can work in Tampa Bay. If you asked me personally, for a standard single-family home, I'd choose vinyl impact windows for the energy efficiency, unless I had a specific design reason to go aluminum.
Does anyone know if winter is a good time to do window replacements here in Tampa? I know up north they often do in spring or fall, but our "winter" is pretty mild. I'm hoping maybe the demand is lower and I could get it done faster/off-season discounts or something?