Getting Started with Window Replacement in Tampa Bay: A Local Homeowner's Guide

Welcome, @film_jack, and congrats on the new home! I went through a full window replacement in my Tampa home two years ago, so I’m happy to share what I learned. It definitely can feel overwhelming at first, but breaking it down step by step helps. First, how to know if it’s time to replace those windows:
Drafts or Air Leaks: If you feel a draft around the window frames or your curtains move on a windy day, that’s a sign the seal is failing. In our hot climate, leaky windows make your A/C work overtime.

Difficulty Opening/Closing: Older windows can warp or the tracks can wear out. If some windows are painted shut, hard to slide, or won’t stay open, it might be time.

Condensation or Fogging: You mentioned seeing condensation between panes. That usually means the seal on a double-pane window has failed, letting moisture in. Not only is it cloudy-looking, but it also means it’s lost insulating value.

Water Leaks or Rot: During heavy rain (and we get those daily downpours!), check for water seeping in. I had one window with wood rot at the frame from years of leaks. Not good, especially with the chance of mold.

High Energy Bills & Heat Transfer: Single-pane or older windows let a lot of heat in. If the area around your windows is noticeably hotter in summer or you have faded furniture and flooring near them, that’s a clue. New windows with Low-E coatings can block a lot of UV and heat.

It sounds like your windows have several of these issues (drafts, failed seals). Forty-year-old single-pane windows in Florida? Yeah, that’s definitely on the older side. You’d likely benefit from replacing them for both comfort and peace of mind. Modern double-pane windows will make a huge difference in energy efficiency and noise reduction too. I used to hear every car passing by, and now it’s much quieter inside.

I’ll second everything @rachelh71 said. I replaced mine last year after I got tired of propping up a couple of sagging windows with sticks (lol not safe!). The draftiness was a big clue, and once I saw my curtains moving when the windows were closed, I knew it was time. Plus, my cooling bill dropped noticeably after the new windows went in. So if you’re on the fence, those signs of fogging glass and drafts mean you won’t regret doing it sooner rather than later.
Also, welcome to the forum and Tampa Bay homeownership! You’re in the right place—lots of friendly folks here who’ve been through it. 🙂

Glad to have you here, @film_jack. As the username implies, I’m all about storm preparedness. 😅 One thing I want to highlight: in Tampa Bay we have a unique climate and weather concerns. Even if your old windows aren’t completely falling apart, many homeowners choose to upgrade for hurricane resilience. After seeing what hurricanes can do (even if we’ve been lucky in Tampa Bay proper the last few years, some near misses like Ian gave us a scare), I decided to invest in impact-resistant windows for my home.
So beyond just age/condition, think about safety: If you’re going to replace windows anyway, it might be worth looking into impact glass options given our storm season. Impact windows can resist flying debris and strong winds, which is a big plus here. We can dive more into that if you’re curious, but I wanted to plant that seed early. It’s not just about fixing drafts—it's also about protecting your home and family. 👍

Thanks for the warm welcome and the detailed signs to look for! It definitely sounds like my old windows check a lot of those boxes (drafts ✅, fogging ✅, hard to open ✅… basically everything except actual wood rot...though there might be some hidden, who knows).
The point about hurricanes is a good one, @carol_clark. I admit, that’s part of why I’m thinking about this now before summer. I don’t want to be up all night during a storm worrying if the windows will blow in.

Impact-resistant windows vs. regular windows is something I’m really curious about. I’ve heard they’re more expensive. Are they worth the cost here in Tampa Bay? And are they required by code or anything? If I don’t get impact windows, I guess I’d need to use shutters or plywood if a hurricane comes, right? I’d love to hear thoughts on impact vs non-impact from those who’ve chosen one or the other. Cost, peace of mind, insurance benefits maybe? I’m all ears.

Great questions! I went through the same debate on impact vs. non-impact a while back. I’ll break down some key considerations for you:
Safety & Storm Protection: Impact windows are designed with a special laminated glass that can withstand heavy impacts (like debris thrown by hurricane-force winds). If you install impact windows, you don’t need to put up shutters when a storm comes—huge convenience. If you go non-impact, you should have hurricane shutters or panels ready, because standard glass can shatter from debris or high winds. Here in Tampa Bay, we’re in a wind-borne debris zone, so even if code might not force you to use impact windows on an existing home, you’ll want some form of protection for peace of mind.

Cost: Yes, impact windows do cost more upfront. In my experience, I found impact-rated windows ran maybe 20-30% more per window than non-impact versions (this can vary, of course, by brand and other features). For example, a non-impact vinyl double-pane window might cost X, and the impact-rated version of the same might be X + 25%. For my house, I figured the extra cost was worth it considering I’d otherwise have to buy accordion shutters or worry about plywood every storm. But if budget is tight, one strategy some neighbors use is to install impact windows on the most vulnerable or largest openings and use shutters on others to save money.

Insurance Discounts: This is a biggie in Florida. Insurance companies offer discounts if all your openings (windows, glass doors, etc.) are protected to certain standards. I got a wind mitigation inspection after my install and because I did all impact glass, I qualified for a nice discount on my home insurance. Keep in mind, it’s usually an all-or-nothing thing: you only get the discount if every opening is hurricane protected (either impact glass or certified shutters). Partial upgrades won’t earn a discount until the whole envelope is storm-proof. My insurance premium went down around 15% after upgrading all windows to impact, which helps offset the cost over time.

Other Benefits: Impact windows also provide better security (harder for burglars to break), and they tend to be very well sealed and often have additional soundproofing benefits (that laminated glass damps sound). On the flip side, if you don’t go impact, you can still get good quality standard windows and perhaps put the savings into other improvements. Just remember you’ll need a plan for storms (whether that’s shutters or impact-resistant film, etc.).

Personally, I went impact for all my windows and have zero regrets. It’s a great feeling not scrambling to put up shutters when a hurricane watch is announced. Some of my neighbors chose not to do impact to save money and say they’ll just use shutters. It really comes down to your comfort level and budget. There’s no wrong answer, but in a hurricane-prone area, impact glass is definitely worth serious consideration.

I’ll chime in with my experience on this. I actually did not get impact windows due to budget, but I made sure to get good hurricane-rated shutters for all my windows. It was cheaper upfront for me. That said, putting up the aluminum shutters is a chore (and kind of a pain if a storm ends up missing us). If I had the funds at the time, I would have done impact windows for the convenience and year-round protection.
One more thing to add: even if you choose non-impact windows, the frames and installation still have to meet Florida’s hurricane codes (they’ll be anchored properly, etc.). Just the glass wouldn’t stop debris. So either way, make sure whichever windows you get are rated for our region (pressure ratings, etc.). Any reputable local window contractor will only sell you code-approved products, but it’s good to be aware.

And like @reader27 said, the insurance discount only kicks in when you have all openings protected. My home didn’t qualify for the full discount because I still have regular glass in some places, but I did get some partial credit for having shutters. If you go the shutter route, keep documentation of their rating for the insurance inspection.

I’m with @reader27 on going all-impact if you can swing it. I replaced my old aluminum single-pane windows with new impact vinyl windows last year. Yes, it cost more initially, but when the next tropical storm came through, I just watched Netflix calmly while my neighbors were out wrestling with shutter panels, haha. 🤭
To answer your question, @film_jack: Impact glass isn’t mandated by law for existing homes unless you’re doing a new build or a major remodel that triggers new codes. But it’s strongly recommended by many in our area for the reasons already mentioned. If you’re getting all new windows anyway, it’s the optimal time to upgrade to impact if possible.

It’s a bit of a project no matter what, so let’s talk about the next steps you’ll face, like materials and frame types, since you mentioned that too. The common options you’ll encounter in Florida are vinyl vs. aluminum frames (those are most popular here), and sometimes wood-clad or fiberglass. Each has pros and cons:

Vinyl Windows: These are super popular now. Vinyl is a good insulator (doesn’t conduct heat as much as metal), so it’s great for energy efficiency. It’s also resistant to humidity and won’t rot or corrode (important in our moist, salt-air environment). Vinyl windows come in a variety of styles and colors (mostly white here, but you can get different finishes, even wood-look). They require little maintenance – just occasional cleaning. One concern people have is whether vinyl holds up to extreme heat and sun. Quality vinyl windows today are formulated to resist warping/yellowing, and they do fine in Florida as long as you get a decent brand. Price-wise, vinyl tends to be more affordable than other types. Most of my neighbors, including myself, went with vinyl replacements and are happy with them.

Aluminum Windows: Older Florida homes often have aluminum frames (like your current ones likely are). These are very strong and durable – great for large window openings because aluminum can support big spans with slim frames. They also have a sleek look some people like. The downside is aluminum conducts heat, so it’s not as energy efficient (though many modern aluminum windows have thermal breaks to improve that). In our humid, coastal air, aluminum can corrode if the finish gets damaged, but good powder-coating and maintenance mitigates that. They’re also slightly more expensive typically. However, aluminum is tough – for example, many of the impact-rated windows for commercial or high-end uses are aluminum because of the strength. If you like a modern look or have huge window openings, aluminum might appeal to you. Just expect to pay a bit more and maybe give up a tiny bit of efficiency vs vinyl.

Wood or Wood-Clad Windows: These are less common in Tampa Bay for full replacements, mostly because of maintenance. Wood can warp or rot in high humidity if not meticulously maintained. Some premium brands offer wood interior with aluminum or vinyl exterior (best of both worlds for appearance), but those are pricey. Unless you have a historic home and need wood for aesthetics, most folks here skip it.

Fiberglass/Composite Windows: You might come across options like fiberglass or composite (like Renewal by Andersen’s Fibrex material, for example). Fiberglass is very strong, won’t warp, and can be painted. It’s also energy efficient. Composite (a mix of wood fibers and vinyl/plastic) similarly offers strength and stability. These tend to cost more than vinyl, sometimes comparable to or more than aluminum. They’re great products (I have a friend who swears by his fiberglass windows), but not every local installer carries them.

In summary, for Tampa Bay, vinyl is often the go-to for most homeowners due to cost, efficiency, and low maintenance. Aluminum is also common, especially for impact windows or certain styles, due to strength. I chose vinyl impact windows for my home to get the best of efficiency and storm protection. So far, so good — no warping, and they open smoothly.

I’d love to hear what others went with. But definitely consider the above in context of our climate: lots of sun, salt, humidity, and storms. Any decent window sold here should handle those, but it’s good to know how the materials differ.

I’ll share my take too. My house is a 1980s block home that had those old aluminum single-hungs. I replaced them with vinyl, non-impact, double-pane windows about five years ago (I added hurricane fabric shutters for storms). The vinyl has held up great — no discoloration or warping at all, and I’m near the water so they get a lot of sun and salt air. One thing I noticed immediately was how much cooler and quieter the house was. Aluminum frames used to get hot to the touch by mid-day and I could feel heat around the windows; with vinyl frames and Low-E glass, that heat transfer is way down.
A friend of mine did the opposite: he has a modern style home in St. Pete and really wanted the thin frames of aluminum windows. He paid extra for high-end aluminum impact windows for a very sleek look (black frames too, which is a trendy look now). They look awesome, and he hasn’t had issues either — the key is that his have a thermal break (an insulating layer) so they don’t conduct heat as much, and the coastal hardware package to resist corrosion. So, both choices can work; it comes down to your priorities (cost vs. aesthetics vs. energy efficiency).

One small note: Vinyl window frames are typically thicker (bulkier) than old aluminum ones. The sightlines on my windows got a bit chunkier after the replacement. It didn’t bother me, but just something to be aware of visually. Meanwhile, aluminum can be slimmer. If you have any specific look you’re going for, keep that in mind and maybe check out some showroom or photos before deciding.

This is super helpful, everyone. I’m learning a lot just following along. I have a related question about window styles (hope you don’t mind me jumping in, @film_jack!). When you replaced your windows, did you stick with the same style (like double-hung, single-hung, sliders, casement, etc.) or did you change types?
For example, some of my current windows are horizontal sliders that stick all the time, and I was thinking of maybe switching a couple of them to casement (crank-out) or awning windows for easier opening and maybe better ventilation (especially to catch those Gulf breezes). Is it practical to change styles like that during a replacement, or is it better to keep the same style due to how the openings are built? Any experiences or advice on choosing window styles for a Florida home?