I keep wondering about the real-life difference between fiberglass and vinyl. I swapped out my front windows for fiberglass a couple years ago—definitely warmer in winter, but I still get a cold draft around the edges some nights. Maybe my 1920s walls are just too wavy for a perfect seal? Has anyone tried redoing the trim or adding extra foam after install? Also, those disposal fees caught me off guard too... ended up making two dump runs and still found random glass bits in the yard weeks later. Worth it overall, but not as straightforward as I hoped.
That draft around the edges isn’t really a fiberglass vs. vinyl thing—it’s almost always about installation or the condition of the old framing. Fiberglass does outperform vinyl for strength and expansion, but even the best window leaks if the shimming or spray foam isn’t thorough. I’ve had to pull off trim and re-foam a couple installs in older homes where the plaster was way out of square. Tedious work, but it made a difference. Disposal is always a pain—old glass hides everywhere, especially if you demo in winter and stuff gets buried in the snow.
- Totally agree—drafts are almost always a sign that something’s off with the install or the old framing, not the window material itself.
- I swapped out two old wood windows for fiberglass last fall. Honestly, the biggest pain wasn’t the window, it was trying to square up 1950s framing that had settled in every direction. Ended up shimming like crazy and using a ton of low-expansion foam. Still found a cold spot near the sill, so had to pull trim and redo it. Not glamorous work.
- Fiberglass is definitely stronger than vinyl, but if you’re not careful, you can still get leaks. I wouldn’t say it’s “set it and forget it.”
- Disposal is a whole other headache. I’m still finding shards in the yard months later... and trying to haul those old sashes to the dump in the snow was a comedy of errors.
- Worth it? Maybe, if you’re planning to stay in the house a while and want the durability. But don’t expect miracles if you skip the prep or try to rush things.
Had a similar experience with my 1947 place—thought new fiberglass windows would solve everything, but the real headache was dealing with the out-of-square framing. Did you notice any noise reduction after the swap? I barely did, which surprised me.
That’s funny, I had almost the exact same thing happen with my ’53 ranch. Everyone kept telling me new fiberglass windows would make a night-and-day difference, but once they were in, the old framing quirks made installation way trickier than I expected. Honestly, I was hoping for better noise reduction too—can still hear the neighbor’s dog like he’s in my living room some nights. Did you end up doing anything extra, like adding insulation around the frames? I’m starting to wonder if that’s where the real sound leaks are coming from...
That’s actually a really common issue with older homes—sometimes the gaps around the window frames are the real culprits for sound sneaking in. Did you notice any drafts after installation? I’ve seen folks use low-expansion foam or even mineral wool around the frames and get way better results. Curious if you spotted any weird spots where the framing didn’t line up quite right, too... those old houses love to surprise you.
- Definitely agree, those old frames can hide some sneaky gaps that make a bigger difference than most folks expect.
- I’ve found mineral wool works well, but it’s messier than foam. Low-expansion foam’s faster, just gotta be careful not to overfill and bow the frame.
- Sometimes the old lumber isn’t square anymore—had a 1920s bungalow where nothing lined up. Ended up using backer rod in a few spots, then trim to cover the sins.
- Even with new fiberglass windows, if the rough opening isn’t sealed right, you’ll still get drafts and noise. It’s not just about the glass.
- Quick tip: check under the sill too. That’s where I see gaps most often, especially if there’s been settling over the years.
Couldn’t agree more about the rough opening being just as important as the window itself. I swapped out a couple of my old wood windows for fiberglass last spring—honestly, the air leaks were mostly around the frame, not through the glass. Got burned once by overfilling with foam and had to wrestle the sash back into place... lesson learned. For me, using a combo of backer rod and just enough foam is key. And yeah, under the sill is always sketchy—found an actual gap big enough for a mouse in one spot. Fiberglass made a difference, but it’s all about how you seal things up.
Man, I hear you on the foam situation. First time I did a window, I thought “more is better” and ended up with a frame that looked like a science experiment gone wrong. Had to trim so much foam just to get the trim back on. The under-sill gaps are wild—pulled out a whole pile of acorns from one spot, so apparently the local squirrels were getting cozy. Fiberglass is nice, but if you don’t seal it up right, feels like you just paid for a fancier draft.
Had to trim so much foam just to get the trim back on.
Yeah, the expanding foam can get out of hand fast. I learned the hard way that “minimal expanding” isn’t just marketing—it’s a lifesaver for window installs. I’m with you on fiberglass being great, but if you leave even a small gap, you’re basically inviting drafts and critters. I’d argue it’s worth the hassle for the long-term energy savings, but only if you’re meticulous about sealing every edge. Otherwise, like you said, you’re just paying for a fancy frame.