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Choosing Energy-Efficient Windows in Florida's Heat and Humidity

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Posts: 14
(@donna_stone)
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I'm new here and just wanted to say this discussion has been incredibly helpful. My husband and I are building a home in Pasco County next year, and we've been debating what kind of windows to get. After reading all this, I'm convinced that investing in good Low-E double-pane windows is the way to go (our builder offers an upgrade option for that, which we will definitely opt for now).
We hadn't even considered things like SHGC or specific window brands before – this thread gave us a whole checklist to discuss with our builder. So thank you all! We feel much more prepared to ensure our new house is as energy-efficient as possible from the get-go.

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Posts: 19
(@fitness113)
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I can add an angle about aesthetics and older homes. I have a 1925 bungalow in Tampa Heights (Hillsborough) and was really worried that new vinyl windows would ruin the historic look of our home. We had old wooden single-hung windows (very drafty, practically zero insulation). When we decided to go energy-efficient, we found a window style that maintained the look pretty well: we got vinyl double-pane windows with exterior grids (muntins) that mimic the old divided-light pattern. We even chose a woodgrain texture on the interior vinyl finish to match our original trim.
I have to say, it looks surprisingly good. You can tell up close they're not the original wood windows, but from the street they still preserve the character of the house. And performance-wise, it's night and day. Our house is no longer an oven in summer and no longer freezing during the rare cold snaps in winter.

So for anyone with an older or historic-style home: you can find energy-efficient windows that don't drastically alter the appearance. There are options for grids, colors, and even wood-look finishes that can blend in with various architectural styles. And it sure is nice to have windows that actually close tightly and insulate – rather than preserving authenticity at the cost of comfort and huge energy bills.

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Posts: 15
(@carol_clark)
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I'll throw in a quick note on warranties and what can happen years down the line. I'm in New Port Richey (Pasco) and we had our windows replaced 7 years ago. Just last month, I noticed one of the upstairs windows had a slight fog between the panes (a sign the seal might have failed). It was a bummer to see, but I contacted the window company. Thankfully, the windows came with a lifetime warranty on the glass/seal. The manufacturer agreed to send a replacement insulated glass unit, and the installer swapped it out for just a minimal labor fee.
It reminded me how important those warranty terms are. Seal failures can happen occasionally, even with good windows (perhaps due to expansion/contraction over years). But a reputable company will stand behind it. In our case, only 1 out of 15 windows had an issue after 7 years, and it was taken care of. The rest are all still perfect.

So, when choosing your windows, consider that long-term support. I made sure to register my warranty with the manufacturer when we got them installed, which made the claim process easier.

In terms of energy efficiency, that window that fogged up was on the north side and we didn't even notice a performance difference; it was mostly cosmetic (a little cloudy patch). But I'm glad it's being replaced now.

Just wanted to share that so people remember to ask about warranty and service in addition to the immediate performance stats. A good product with a good warranty = peace of mind for years.

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Posts: 9
(@breeze_wright)
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@carol_clark Good point. I did the same – sent in those warranty registration cards as soon as my windows were installed. Many manufacturers have lifetime warranties, but you gotta register. It's one of those things that's easy to forget in the excitement of getting new windows.
I haven't had any issues yet (knock on wood), but it's reassuring to know I'm covered if a seal ever fails or something. Vinyl frames usually also have lifetime warranty against defects. The company I went with promised they'd handle any warranty claims on my behalf too, which is great service.

So yes, definitely keep that paperwork. It’s one reason going with an established brand pays off.

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dobbyskier
Posts: 9
(@dobbyskier)
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This might be a minor detail, but one of the window quotes I got mentioned "foam-filled frames" as a feature for better energy efficiency. Is that something worth considering? The rep said they inject insulating foam inside the vinyl frame chambers to improve the R-value a bit. It sounds good on paper, but I'm not sure how much of a difference it really makes in the real world (and if it's worth any extra cost).
Have any of you had windows with foam-filled frames, or know if it actually helps in our climate? I figure most of the heat comes through the glass anyway, but I’m curious if a foam-filled frame is a meaningful upgrade or just a marketing gimmick.

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Posts: 14
(@frodochef)
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@dobbyskier I looked into that when shopping as well. Foam-filled frames are essentially an incremental improvement. Vinyl window frames usually have hollow chambers inside (which actually already trap air and provide some insulation). Filling those chambers with foam can increase the frame's insulating properties slightly. It can help reduce the U-factor of the window a little bit, particularly in cold climates.
In Florida, since the glass is the biggest source of heat transmission (especially solar heat), foam-filled frames won't make a huge difference to your energy performance. It's not a bad feature – it might keep the frame a tad cooler to the touch under direct sun, and in theory every bit of insulation helps. But if it's an extra-cost option, many people skip it. The gain in efficiency is relatively small, maybe a few percent improvement in the overall window performance.

All the quotes I got, the frames were either standard hollow vinyl or foam-filled depending on the brand. The ones I chose ended up having foam by default. I can't say I notice anything particular about it; the windows perform great, but they likely would have been just as good without the foam.

If the upgrade cost is minor or included, sure, take it – it doesn't hurt. But I wouldn't pay a big premium for it. As you said, the glass (SHGC, etc.) is where you'll see the major impact. I'd prioritize the Low-E coating and glass characteristics over frame foam.

TL;DR: Nice to have, but not a game-changer. If it's included, great; if it's extra, not a must-have for our climate, in my opinion.

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apollostone369
Posts: 12
(@apollostone369)
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I just want to thank everyone here for such a comprehensive discussion. I'm in Pinellas (Palm Harbor) and this thread answered questions I didn't even know I should ask! I feel much more confident now about what to look for when I start my window project. From technical stuff like SHGC to practical tips about installers and permits – it's all here.
Big thanks to @data843 for starting this "real talk" and to everyone else for contributing. This has been immensely helpful for a lot of us lurkers, I'm sure.

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Posts: 8
(@tigger_river)
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One thing I’ll add from my recent experience: if you have any big sliding glass doors (like patio doors), consider upgrading those to the same energy-efficient glass as your windows. We replaced our old single-pane slider with a new double-pane Low-E sliding door at the same time we did our windows. It cost a bit more, but wow, it made a difference too.
Our living room slider faces south and used to let in a ton of heat. After the new door, you can stand next to it and not feel that blast of heat anymore. It also improved our overall cooling since that was basically like another big window. Plus, the door is heavier and feels sturdier (we got an impact-rated one for security and storm protection).

So, don't forget the glass doors if you have them – they are part of the thermal envelope as well. Now our house is fully buttoned up with efficient glass all around.

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dennisc24
Posts: 9
(@dennisc24)
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I have a related question: after you installed your new efficient windows, did you notice any change in how often your A/C runs or cycles? My A/C currently seems to run almost continuously on hot days (older windows and poor insulation in my place). I'm hoping new windows will help the A/C get some breaks because the cool air will stay in longer.
It sounds like people's houses stayed cooler and had lower bills, which implies the A/C might not have to run as much. Did anyone actually observe their A/C turning on and off less frequently or running shorter cycles after the window upgrade?

I'm mainly asking because I'm also considering if I need to upgrade my A/C, but if windows reduce the load significantly, I might get a few more years out of the current unit.

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Posts: 9
(@breeze_wright)
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@dennisc24 Yes, in my case I definitely noticed the A/C running less often after the window replacement. Before, especially in the late afternoon, my A/C would be running almost nonstop to try to keep up. After the new windows were in, the A/C would actually reach the set temperature and cycle off for a while, even during peak heat.
I remember the first week after installation, I kept listening for the A/C and was surprised at times that it was off because previously it was almost always humming. Now it has more normal on/off cycles. The indoor temperature doesn't climb as quickly when the compressor shuts off because the windows aren't letting in as much heat or letting out the cool.

I don't have exact numbers, but anecdotally, the system seems to run more efficiently. It runs longer when it runs (which is actually good for dehumidification), but then it stays off longer too because it meets the cooling demand and the house holds the temperature better. Before, it felt like it never stopped.

So yes, good windows can reduce the cooling load on your A/C. It's not a silver bullet if your attic insulation is poor or you have other issues, but it's a significant piece. In my situation, the windows were the major weak point (I already had decent insulation). After fixing the windows, the whole HVAC system operates more effectively.

I haven't needed to upgrade my A/C yet because of this – it's able to maintain temps more easily now. So you might indeed get more life out of your unit if it's not struggling as much. Just make sure to address any other big sources of heat gain too (like a hot attic or uninsulated walls), but windows are often the low-hanging fruit in Florida homes.

All in all, after new windows, expect your A/C to take more "breaks" since your home will hold the cool air better. Your electric bill will thank you and your A/C might too.

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