Silicone tape isn’t really meant for that kind of job—especially outdoors. It’s great for sealing leaks in plumbing or wrapping electrical connections, but it doesn’t have the grip for holding up a vapor barrier in wind or humidity. Honestly, even a high-end exterior tape struggles if the surface isn’t clean and dry. For temp fixes like that, I’ve had better luck with sheathing tape (the red stuff), but even then, if there’s moisture or dust, you’re fighting a losing battle. Sometimes, nothing beats mechanical fasteners—staples or furring strips—if you want something to actually stay put, especially when the weather’s working against you.
You nailed it—mechanical fasteners just hold up way better in unpredictable conditions. I’ve been burned trying to rely on tape when I’m in a rush, thinking it’ll be “good enough” until I can get back to it. Next thing I know, the wind’s peeled it right off or the humidity’s made it useless. Sometimes all you can do is make the best call with what you’ve got in the moment. It’s frustrating, but it’s all part of figuring things out on the fly.
I get where you're coming from, but I’ve actually had decent luck with certain tapes—especially the butyl rubber kind—when mechanical fasteners just weren’t an option. Not saying it’s foolproof, but if you prep the surface and keep things dry, it can hold surprisingly well, even in rough weather. Obviously, it’s not a permanent fix, but sometimes you just need a quick patch to buy some time. Guess it depends a lot on what you’re dealing with and how much time you’ve got to do it right.
That’s fair—there are definitely times when you just can’t get a fastener in, or it’d do more harm than good. Butyl tape has bailed me out more than once, especially on older wood frames where you don’t want to risk splitting the material. Surface prep is everything, though. If there’s any dust, oil, or moisture, that stuff won’t stick for long and you’ll be back at square one.
I’ve seen people try to use regular duct tape or painter’s tape in a pinch and that never holds up—especially if there’s any flexing or temperature swings. Butyl’s got enough give to handle some movement without peeling right off. Still, I wouldn’t trust it for anything structural or long-term. There’s always that temptation to leave a “temporary” fix in place way too long... been guilty of that myself.
It really does come down to what you’re trying to patch and how much time you’ve got before the next rainstorm or inspection. Sometimes you just need something to keep the elements out until you can do a proper repair.
Butyl tape’s definitely saved my hide a few times, but I’ve also seen it fail when the temps swing too much—seems like it can lose tack if things freeze and thaw. Ever tried any of the newer hybrid sealants for those quick fixes? I’m curious if they actually outperform the old standbys or if it’s just hype.
I’ve used a couple of those hybrids—Sikaflex and the OSI stuff come to mind. They do stick better in cold snaps than butyl, at least in my experience sealing up skylights in March. Downside is cleanup’s a pain if you ever need to redo it, and they’re pricier. For a quick patch, I still reach for butyl unless I know the temp swings are going to be wild. The hybrids are solid, just not always worth the hassle for smaller jobs.
I get where you’re coming from—those hybrids are definitely tougher than butyl in weird temps, but honestly, I’ve had some regrets using them on window frames. The first time I tried Sikaflex, it was mid-February and I figured “might as well try the fancy stuff.” It sealed up tight, sure, but when I had to pull it off two years later for a retrofit... what a nightmare. Ended up gouging the wood trying to scrape it clean. For me, unless it’s a spot that’ll see wild weather swings or major leaks, I stick with butyl. Easier to fix down the road, and I’m not convinced the extra cost is worth it for small patches.
That’s a really solid point about removal—hybrids like Sikaflex are beasts when it comes to adhesion, but they’re almost too good if you ever need to redo the job. I ran into a similar headache pulling old polyurethane sealant off an exterior sill. Took ages and left the surface pretty chewed up. I get why people reach for butyl, especially if you’re thinking long-term maintenance or future retrofits. Sometimes “good enough” and easy to fix later just makes more sense than bulletproof but permanent.
I get where you’re coming from with wanting something you can actually remove later, but sometimes I think “good enough” bites you in the long run. I tried using butyl once on a leaky basement window, figuring it’d be easier to swap out if I messed up. Fast forward two winters and the thing started weeping again—turns out “easy to fix” also meant “easy to fail” when things shifted a bit. Ended up scraping it all out and going the Sikaflex route anyway, and yeah, removal was a headache, but at least it’s stayed bone dry since.
Guess it depends how much you trust your first install versus how much you want to gamble on having to redo it. I’ll admit, sometimes I lean too hard toward overkill, but I’ve been burned by “fixable later” more than once. Maybe there’s a sweet spot, but I haven’t found it yet...
- Been there—sometimes “removable” just means “redo it every year.”
- Used caulk on my old bathroom window thinking I’d want to swap it out. Ended up cursing myself when it leaked again mid-February.
- Now I just go for the stuff that’s a pain to remove but actually works. Less “fun” later, but at least I’m not bailing water.
- Overkill? Maybe. But I sleep better.