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Window header damage—can I handle this without a pro?

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Posts: 11
(@scottt81)
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Good call on checking insulation first—it's surprising how often moisture sneaks in and makes things look way worse than they actually are. But honestly, if you're seeing significant header damage, I'd still be cautious about just patching it up and moving on. Moisture buildup can weaken the wood fibers over time, even if it doesn't look completely rotted at first glance. I had a similar issue a couple years ago, thought I'd dodged a bullet after drying things out and adding insulation, but ended up needing to replace the header anyway after a heavy snow load caused some noticeable sagging.

Not saying you can't handle it yourself—if you're comfortable with framing basics and have the right tools, it's definitely doable. Just don't underestimate the importance of structural integrity here. And yeah, YouTube DIY videos always seem to skip the part where you spend half the weekend running back and forth to the hardware store...

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marka22
Posts: 10
(@marka22)
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Totally agree on the insulation check—caught a similar issue last winter. Thought I'd fixed it by drying things out and sealing gaps, but turns out moisture had already weakened the header more than I realized. Ended up replacing it myself, doable but definitely not fun. If you tackle it, just be ready for surprises...and yeah, those DIY videos never show the part where you're cursing at stripped screws in freezing weather.

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markbaker838
Posts: 19
(@markbaker838)
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"those DIY videos never show the part where you're cursing at stripped screws in freezing weather."

Haha, exactly...been there more times than I'd like to admit. Did you end up reinforcing the header with anything extra, or just replaced it as-is? Curious if adding some flashing or extra waterproofing would've helped.

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Posts: 15
(@nature_aspen)
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"Did you end up reinforcing the header with anything extra, or just replaced it as-is? Curious if adding some flashing or extra waterproofing would've helped."

I feel your pain on those stripped screws...nothing tests patience like frozen fingers and stubborn hardware. As for the header, I definitely recommend adding some metal flashing if you haven't already. When I replaced mine a couple of years back, I initially skipped that step (rookie mistake), and sure enough, moisture found its way in again after just one winter. Ended up pulling everything apart again, installing proper flashing, and sealing it with a high-quality exterior caulk. Since then, no issues at all—knock on wood.

Also, if the damage was extensive, sistering the header with a second board can provide extra strength and stability. It might seem like overkill initially, but honestly, it's worth the peace of mind knowing you won't have to redo it anytime soon.

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tylercoder
Posts: 8
(@tylercoder)
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I second the flashing recommendation. When I tackled a similar issue last spring, I thought just replacing the header and sealing it up tight with caulk would be enough. It looked solid at first, but after a few heavy rains, I noticed some dampness creeping back in around the edges. Ended up having to redo the whole thing—this time adding metal flashing above the header and overlapping it properly with the house wrap. Lesson learned the hard way, I guess.

Also, if you're dealing with stripped screws, try using an impact driver if you haven't already. Saved me a ton of frustration when I was wrestling with rusted hardware. Sistering the header is a good call too, especially if there's any doubt about structural integrity. Might seem like extra work now, but trust me, it's better than having to revisit this project again next year...

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ray_explorer
Posts: 9
(@ray_explorer)
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Yep, flashing is definitely your friend here. Had a similar situation a couple years back—thought I'd outsmart the rain gods with some heavy-duty caulk alone. Looked great until the next big storm hit, and suddenly my living room was auditioning for an indoor waterfall feature. Ended up pulling everything apart again and installing proper metal flashing and house wrap overlap. Lesson learned: shortcuts never save you time in the long run...

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timvlogger
Posts: 16
(@timvlogger)
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Yeah, totally agree on the flashing. When I first moved into my place, I noticed some minor water stains around a window header and thought I'd just patch it up with caulk and paint—easy fix, right? Nope. A few months later, the stains were back and worse than before. Ended up doing exactly what you did: metal flashing, proper wrap overlap, the whole deal. Definitely worth taking the extra time to do it right... saves headaches down the road.

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summit_shadow
Posts: 10
(@summit_shadow)
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Had a similar experience with a client last summer. They'd patched up their window headers multiple times, thinking caulk was the magic fix. By the time they called me in, water had already gotten behind the siding and rotted some sheathing. Ended up being a bigger job than it needed to be—wish they'd caught it sooner. Curious, did you find any hidden damage once you opened things up, or was it mostly surface-level stuff?

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film685
Posts: 3
(@film685)
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Had a similar issue myself a couple years back. Thought it was just peeling paint and a bit of surface rot, but once I started pulling things apart, it turned out the damage had spread way deeper than I'd expected. Ended up replacing some sheathing and even a couple studs that had gotten soft from moisture. Honestly, it was a bit intimidating at first, but once I got into it, it wasn't as complicated as I'd feared. Just took patience and making sure I didn't rush through the waterproofing steps.

I think the biggest mistake people make (myself included at first) is assuming caulk or paint alone can fix water intrusion issues. Those are really just temporary band-aids if there's an underlying problem with flashing or drainage. If you catch it early enough, it's usually manageable for someone who's handy and willing to learn—but if it's been going on for a while, you might uncover more than you bargained for.

One thing I'd definitely recommend is taking your time when you open things up—don't just rip everything apart right away. Go slow, take pictures as you go, and document what you're seeing. That way, if you do end up needing professional help later on, you'll have clear evidence of what's going on behind the scenes.

Did you end up finding any structural issues like framing rot or mold? Or was it mostly cosmetic stuff? Sometimes it's hard to tell until you're elbow-deep in siding and insulation...

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Posts: 10
(@brunner77)
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Sounds like you're on the right track. Had a similar situation myself—thought it was just cosmetic, but ended up replacing part of the header and some framing. Agree 100% about not rushing waterproofing; that's key. Did you find any mold behind the insulation? That was my biggest headache...but once cleaned up, the rebuild was pretty straightforward. You've got this, just take it slow and steady.

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