You think you’re just touching up paint, then suddenly you’re elbows-deep in a much bigger project.
That’s the classic trap, isn’t it? I’ve seen frames that looked fine from the outside, but once you start scraping, the rot’s gone way deeper than you’d expect. Sometimes it’s just a little soft spot under the sill, but other times the whole jamb is shot. I’m curious—anyone here use moisture meters, or do you mostly rely on the old screwdriver test? I’ve found the meter helps, but it’s not foolproof either.
I’ve definitely fallen into that rabbit hole—what starts as a quick fix turns into a weekend project, or two. I’ve tried those moisture meters but honestly, I still end up poking around with a screwdriver just to be sure. Sometimes the meter says it’s all good, but then the wood crumbles anyway... Maybe it’s just my old windows, but I don’t fully trust gadgets for this stuff. Anyone else feel like the old-school methods are sometimes more reliable, even if they’re not fancy?
Had a job a while back where the homeowner swore by his fancy meter—one of those digital ones that beep and flash numbers. He’d checked every window and told me they were all dry. But when I started taking out the old sash, the bottom rail just crumbled in my hands. The outside looked fine, but inside it was like wet cardboard.
Honestly, I get why people like the gadgets—they’re quick, and sometimes they catch stuff you’d miss. But nothing beats giving the frame a good poke with a screwdriver or even just tapping along to listen for that hollow sound. Sometimes the old tricks really are best, especially with older houses where paint hides a lot of sins.
I will say, though, meters can help if you’re checking spots you can’t reach easily, or if you want to keep an eye on things over time. Still, when it comes down to it, I trust my eyes and hands more than any gadget. Maybe it’s just habit after years of seeing what’s really going on behind the paint...
- Totally agree—paint hides a ton, and meters can only tell you so much.
- I’ve had frames that looked solid until I pressed near the sill, then my screwdriver went right through.
- Sometimes it’s just years of layered caulk and paint masking things.
- Has anyone found a reliable way to check sills without stripping all the paint? Or is it just inevitable with old wood?
Honestly, I’m not totally convinced it’s always the paint’s fault. I mean, sure, a thick layer can hide stuff, but sometimes old wood just gets soft from the inside out and you can’t tell until it’s too late. I’ve tapped around with a coin or even just my knuckles and sometimes you get that hollow sound, but even then it’s a bit of a gamble. Maybe there’s no real trick—just gotta accept that with old frames, surprises are kinda part of the deal?
- Had the same issue with my old windows.
- I thought paint would make it obvious, but nope—looked fine until I poked a screwdriver in and it just sank.
- Tried the “knock test” too, but sometimes it sounded solid even when there was rot underneath.
- Guess sometimes you just can’t win... old wood keeps secrets.
- Next time, I might just budget for some repairs no matter what I see on the surface.
Tried the “knock test” too, but sometimes it sounded solid even when there was rot underneath.
Yeah, knocking doesn’t always work. I learned that the hard way with the back window in my kitchen. Looked fine for years—fresh paint, no soft spots you could see or feel. Then one spring, I noticed a little swelling around the sill. Thought it was just humidity, but when I pressed with my thumb, it practically caved in. Turns out the rot had started from inside where water got trapped behind some old caulk.
Here’s what’s worked for me since then:
1. **Check under the paint at seams and joints** – I use a utility knife to gently score along the bottom edge of the frame or at corners. If the blade sinks in easily or wood flakes off, there’s trouble.
2. **Look for subtle discoloration** – Even if paint looks good, sometimes you’ll see faint yellowing or grey patches near the base. That’s usually a hint.
3. **Probe with an awl or thin screwdriver** – Not just on the surface, but poking into joints or anywhere water might collect. If it feels spongy, that’s a red flag.
4. **Watch for condensation inside the glass** – Sometimes moisture gets in and runs down into the frame, rotting it from below.
5. **Check after heavy rain** – I’ve found soft spots right after storms that weren’t obvious before.
I get what you mean about budgeting for repairs no matter what you see on the surface. Old wood really does keep secrets—especially if someone’s done a quick patch-up with filler and paint before selling. I’ve even found newish caulk hiding gaps where water sneaks in.
If you’re dealing with old windows, I’d say just assume there’s some hidden damage and plan for at least minor repairs every few years. It’s almost never as simple as it looks from the outside... especially if your place is over 40 years old like mine.
Funny thing is, after all this, my neighbor swears by using a moisture meter on window frames before doing any work. I haven’t tried that yet, but honestly—might be worth it next time I’m suspicious.
That moisture meter idea actually sounds pretty smart, honestly. I’ve always just poked around with a screwdriver too, but sometimes you just can’t tell until things get ugly. Had a spot on my living room window that looked perfect—paint, caulk, the whole deal. Then one day I leaned on it and my finger went right through. The worst part? It was hiding behind a curtain the whole time... classic. I guess with old wood, if it looks suspicious, it probably is. Might be time to finally try out one of those meters myself.
Yeah, I’ve been burned by that same “looks fine on the outside” trick. Had a bathroom window that passed the screwdriver test, but when I finally pulled the trim for repainting, the wood underneath was like wet cardboard. Paint and caulk can hide a lot. I picked up a cheap moisture meter after that—nothing fancy, but it’s caught a few sketchy spots before they got out of hand. It’s not foolproof, but it beats guessing.
That’s exactly what happened with a couple of my old double-hungs. I thought I was in the clear after poking around outside, but when I started stripping paint, the bottom rail basically crumbled in my hands. Makes me wonder if there’s ever a way to really know before committing to a full tear-down. Do you find your moisture meter works on thicker paint layers, or do you have to get down to bare wood for a good reading?