Trim really is one of those things that looks simple until you start pulling it off and realize how much damage is hiding underneath. I see a lot of people try to salvage old trim, but like you said, sometimes it’s just not worth the effort—especially if you’re dealing with rot or warping. Pre-primed is my go-to as well, mainly because the finish ends up more consistent and you’re less likely to run into adhesion issues with paint.
I’ll add that some folks underestimate how important it is to check for level and squareness before setting new windows and trim. Even a small shift can mess up your lines and cause headaches down the road with sticking sashes or gaps. And yeah, expanding foam is great for air sealing, but too much can actually bow the frame if you’re not careful. I always recommend using low-expansion foam specifically labeled for windows and doors.
Repainting everything at once makes a huge difference—it’s one of those tedious steps that pays off every time. The only thing I’d maybe push back on is that sometimes, if the existing paint is in good shape and matches, you can get away with touch-ups... but most older homes aren’t that lucky.
Pre-primed is my go-to as well, mainly because the finish ends up more consistent and you’re less likely to run into adhesion issues with paint.
I hear you on the pre-primed trim—makes life so much easier, especially if you’re dealing with a bunch of windows at once. I tried to salvage some original trim in my 1920s place and honestly, the amount of hidden rot and weird old repairs was wild. Sometimes it’s just not worth the hours scraping, sanding, and patching only to end up with something that still looks “meh.”
One thing I wish I’d known before starting: how much the wall framing can be out of whack in an old house. You think you’re just swapping out a window, but then you realize nothing is square and the shims start piling up. I’ve seen folks get so focused on getting the window level that they forget about how it’ll look with the rest of the wall or siding—then you step back and it’s like, “Why does that window look like it’s leaning?” Drives me nuts.
About repainting everything at once—I get why people do it, but I’ve actually had decent luck feathering in touch-ups if the sheen and color match. Maybe I’m just picky about brush marks showing through, but sometimes a full repaint feels like overkill if the existing paint is solid. That said, matching 20-year-old paint is almost impossible... so maybe I’m just stubborn.
Curious if anyone else has run into issues with expanding foam pushing frames out of alignment? I thought I was being careful with low-expansion stuff, but one window still ended up a hair bowed. Is there some trick to applying it in small doses or do you just have to go super slow and let it cure between passes?
- I get the appeal of pre-primed trim, but I’ve actually had better luck with raw wood in some spots—especially when I'm aiming for a super tight air seal. Sometimes primer can hide little gaps or unevenness that end up messing with caulk adhesion later.
- On the foam issue: low-expansion is definitely safer, but even that can push things out if you go too fast. I’ve started using backer rod and just a bit of foam at a time, letting it set before adding more. It’s slower, but less risk of bowing frames.
- As for touch-up vs repainting—totally agree about matching old paint being tough. But from an energy efficiency angle, a fresh coat (with modern paint) can help seal micro-gaps around trim and sills. Not a huge difference, but every bit helps if drafts are a concern.
- Old houses are always full of surprises... sometimes I wonder if “nothing is square” should be stamped on the deed.
That’s an interesting point about raw wood versus pre-primed trim. I’ve run into some of those same adhesion issues—especially in the corners where things aren’t perfectly flush. I thought pre-primed would save me time, but sometimes it just means more caulking and sanding to get everything tight. The raw wood seems to “grab” the caulk better, at least in my experience, though it does add a step with priming after install.
On the foam, I learned the hard way how even low-expansion can push things out of square if you’re not careful. My first window, I got a little impatient and filled the whole gap at once. Came back the next day and the frame had bowed just enough to make the sash sticky. Now I do it exactly like you said—backer rod, then a little bit of foam, let it cure, then add more if needed. It’s a pain, but I’d rather go slow than have to redo trim.
Matching old paint is a nightmare. I tried to touch up around one window and ended up repainting the whole wall because the color was just off enough to bug me. But you’re right about modern paint helping with drafts. I noticed a difference after repainting—less cold air sneaking in, especially around the sills.
The “nothing is square” thing is so true. My house is from the 1940s and I swear every window opening is a different size and shape. I ended up scribing a lot of the trim just to get it to sit flat. Did anyone else have to deal with weird framing surprises, like finding shims stacked three deep or random gaps stuffed with newspaper? I’m still not sure if that was original or just someone’s creative fix from decades ago...
Did anyone else have to deal with weird framing surprises, like finding shims stacked three deep or random gaps stuffed with newspaper?
Yeah, I found some old magazines crammed in a wall cavity when I pulled out a window. Guess that was someone's idea of insulation back in the day... Makes you wonder what other shortcuts are hiding behind the trim. I totally get what you mean about scribing trim—my 1950s place is just as wonky. Nothing is square, and every window is its own puzzle. You’re not alone there.
Pulled out a kitchen window last fall and found a whole stack of old grocery bags stuffed in the gap. Not sure if it was for drafts or just laziness, but it definitely made me double-check every other window. I wish I’d known how much patching I’d have to do after—thought it’d be a quick swap, but nope. Every opening was a different size, and getting the new windows level took way longer than I expected. Makes you appreciate straight walls, that’s for sure.
- Been there. Pulled a bedroom window and found old socks stuffed in the frame. Guess it was “insulation” back in the day.
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Yep, nothing’s square in my 1940s place either. Had to custom-shim every single one.“Every opening was a different size, and getting the new windows level took way longer than I expected.”
- Thought it’d be a weekend job. Ended up patching plaster for a week and cursing uneven studs.
- Next time, hiring out the demo. My back still remembers that mess...
“Every opening was a different size, and getting the new windows level took way longer than I expected.”
I hear you. I figured it’d just be a matter of swapping out the old windows, but nothing lined up—one side would always be off by a half inch or more. Ended up having to trim some framing just to get the sashes in. Didn’t expect all the dust behind the plaster either. If I’d known how much patching and cleanup was involved, I probably would’ve budgeted for at least some pro help. Not sure it actually saved me much money in the end.
I get where you’re coming from, but honestly, I still think doing it yourself can be worth it if you plan ahead. When I did mine, I spent a couple hours measuring every opening—top, bottom, both sides—before ordering the windows. That way, I knew which ones would need extra shims or maybe a little trimming. Yeah, it was dusty and messy, but I just taped up plastic sheets and kept a shop vac handy. If you’re willing to take your time and double-check everything, it’s doable. Not saying it’s easy, but I’d rather put in the sweat than pay for something I can handle with a bit of patience.
Preach on the patience part—honestly, I thought I was being careful, but still managed to get one window that was like 1/8" off and had to fight with it for hours. Measuring twice sounds good... but sometimes I think I measured three times and still messed up. Guess that's just how it goes. Definitely agree it's doable, just don't expect it to be quick or clean.