Did you try using spray foam around the frames? Sometimes that helps fill odd gaps, but it can also push things out of alignment if you’re not careful.
Man, that spray foam is a double-edged sword, isn’t it? I’ve had it bow a jamb so badly I had to start over. Ever tried the low-expansion stuff? It’s supposed to be safer for window installs, but I still get nervous. Also, anyone else find that “plumb and square” are just suggestions in houses built before 1950? Sometimes I wonder if my house was assembled after a few too many beers...
Low-expansion foam is definitely less risky, but I still approach it like a ticking time bomb. One can overdo it and you’re back to wrestling warped jambs. And yeah, “square” is more of a dream in my 1928 place—level is just wherever the bubble settles that day.
- I totally get the “bubble settles where it wants” thing—my place is from the ‘30s and nothing’s straight.
- Tried low-expansion foam for the first time last weekend. I was so paranoid about overfilling I think I underdid it… ended up with a couple cold drafts.
- Didn’t realize how much patience it takes to get the window even halfway square, especially when the frame itself is all wonky.
- Using shims felt like playing Jenga. I kept thinking, “Is this actually helping or just making it worse?”
- Anyone else have issues with old wood frames crumbling a bit when you’re working on them? I’m wondering if I should’ve reinforced mine before installing.
Curious if anyone found a trick to getting things close to square in an old house, or do you just accept “good enough” and move on?
Using shims felt like playing Jenga. I kept thinking, “Is this actually helping or just making it worse?”
Yeah, that’s exactly how it feels—shims everywhere and nothing really square. My place is from the ‘40s so nothing lines up either. I’ve found if you chase perfect, you’ll go nuts. I usually get it “close enough” so the sash operates and the gaps aren’t wild, then foam and trim hide a lot. For crumbly old frames, I brush on wood hardener first—helps a bit but doesn’t work miracles. Sometimes you just have to accept the quirks of an old house… adds character, right?
That’s the reality with old houses—sometimes you just have to accept things won’t be textbook perfect. I stressed about every little gap at first, but honestly, a bit of foam and decent trim really does cover a lot. You’re not alone in feeling like it’s a balancing act.
Yeah, I totally get the stress over those gaps. When I did my windows, I wish I’d known how uneven my old walls actually were—no matter how careful I measured, there were surprises. Did you end up having to shim a lot, or was it mostly foam for you?
I ran into the same thing with mine—old house, nothing’s square, and the walls seemed to bow in or out depending on where you looked. I thought I could get away with just a bead of foam around the frame, but there were a couple spots that needed some serious shimming. One window in the back bedroom was almost half an inch off at the bottom—never would’ve guessed until I pulled out the old frame. Ended up using a mix of both: shims to make it level and then foam to seal it up.
Honestly, I wish someone had warned me how messy that expanding foam can get. Got some on my hands and it took days to come off... Next time, gloves all the way.
Did you have trouble getting the trim back on after? For me, lining everything up again was a bigger headache than the window install itself.
That trim is always the sneaky part, isn’t it? I thought the hard work was done once the window was in, but nope—spent way too long trying to get those old, slightly warped pieces to line up again. Ended up with a bit more caulk than I’d like to admit just to hide the gaps. Next time I might just budget for new trim and save myself the headache. And yeah, that foam is basically glue for skin... learned the hard way too.
Man, I totally underestimated the trim situation too. I figured, “Hey, I’ll just pop it off and put it back on after the new window’s in.” Yeah… that did not go as planned. Some of my old trim was so brittle it just splintered, and the stuff that didn’t break was warped beyond saving. I tried to fill the worst gaps with wood filler before caulking but ended up sanding for ages and still had to paint over some pretty obvious patches. Honestly, next time I might just pre-prime new trim and have it ready to go.
That expanding foam is no joke either—I had sticky fingers for a week. Have you tried those blue nitrile gloves? They saved me when I did the back windows.
Did you end up repainting all your trim or just touching up where you could? I’m debating if it’s worth repainting the whole frame or just spot-fixing.
Honestly, you’re not alone—trim always turns into a bigger project than expected. I ran into the same thing with my 70s ranch. The old stuff just crumbled, and after fighting with wood filler and caulk, I realized I was wasting time trying to save what wasn’t worth saving. Pre-primed trim is the way to go, hands down. It’s cleaner, faster, and you get a tighter seal for energy efficiency. Old warped trim can actually create gaps that let air leak in, which totally defeats the point of upgrading your windows in the first place.
As for paint, I’m a big believer in doing it right once instead of dragging it out with touch-ups. Spot fixes always end up looking patchy, especially if your old paint’s faded or yellowed over time. I bit the bullet and repainted all my new trim and frames in one go—tedious, but now it all matches and there’s no weird seams or color differences. Plus, fresh paint helps seal everything up and keeps moisture out.
You mentioned expanding foam—yeah, that stuff is brutal if you don’t glove up. I learned the hard way too... had sticky hands for days. Nitrile gloves are a must from now on.
If you’re on the fence about repainting, just think about how much time you already spent patching and sanding. Sometimes it’s less work in the long run to just start fresh—plus your energy bills will thank you when everything’s sealed up tight.