Definitely had this happen with our 90s-era windows. I recaulked, thought I nailed it, but the haze crept back after a wet winter. Turned out the bottom rail of the sash was letting in moisture—wood had a tiny gap I’d missed. Dug out the soft stuff, used some epoxy and fresh paint, and that actually made a bigger difference than resealing the glass. Not saying it’s always the frame, but worth poking around before dropping cash on a new IGU.
- Had a nearly identical thing with my 80s double-hungs. Thought all the fogging was from a bad seal, but after two rounds of caulk (and a lot of cursing), the moisture kept sneaking in.
- Turned out, the culprit was a sneaky crack in the lower sash frame—barely visible, but enough for water to get in and mess up the whole deal.
- Dug out the rot, filled with wood hardener and epoxy, then repainted. Way more effective than just going after the glass seal.
- One thing I learned: most of the time, the frame or sash is the weak link, especially on older wood windows. The glass unit is usually fine unless you see actual condensation between panes.
- That said, I do think DIY repairs can be more than a temp fix if you really dig around for hidden gaps or soft spots. But it’s easy to miss stuff, especially if you’re in a hurry or it’s cold out.
- Minor disagreement with folks who say “just replace the IGU right away.” I’m all for new tech, but sometimes a little detective work and a tube of epoxy can buy you a few more years.
- Also, not sure about everyone else, but I actually liked the process—felt good to save some cash and learn a few tricks. Worst case, you’re only out some time and materials, not the cost of a new window.
- Only regret: didn’t check the sills sooner. Water damage creeps up fast if you let it slide. Now I poke around every fall just to be safe.
- Guess it comes down to how much patience you’ve got and if you don’t mind getting your hands dirty. For me, it was worth it.
One thing I learned: most of the time, the frame or sash is the weak link, especially on older wood windows.
Totally agree. I used to think all my drafts were coming through the glass, but after doing a smoke test, turns out half the leaks were from tiny gaps in the sash corners and around the locks. Ended up using weatherstripping and a little wood filler—made a bigger difference in my heating bill than I expected. Not perfect, but for a 60s house, it’s holding up. Sometimes it’s more about chasing those sneaky leaks than just swapping out the IGU right away.
That’s spot on about the sneaky leaks around the sash and frame. It’s wild how much air can sneak through spots you’d never expect—especially on older wood windows where things have shifted a bit over time. I’ve seen folks spend a ton on new IGUs thinking that’ll solve everything, but honestly, half the time it’s those tiny gaps that are doing most of the damage.
Weatherstripping and some careful wood filler work can go a long way, especially if you’re not ready to commit to full replacements. I’ve worked on plenty of 50s and 60s homes where just tightening up those corners made a noticeable difference in comfort and utility bills. It’s not always a forever fix, but if you use good materials and check them every year or so, you can keep things tight without breaking the bank.
Not every drafty window needs to be ripped out right away... sometimes a little patience and detective work pays off more than dropping thousands on new units. Just gotta know when enough is enough, though—sometimes rot or major warping means it’s time to bite the bullet. But for most cases? DIY repairs are surprisingly solid.
Totally agree—most people underestimate how much those little gaps add up. I’ve found that a $10 roll of V-seal and some patience can outperform a pricey window swap if the frame’s still solid. The trick is actually finding every leak, though. A smoke pencil or even just a candle on a breezy day works wonders for tracking down trouble spots. That said, if you see soft wood or the sash is warped beyond recognition, it’s probably time to stop patching and just replace. But for most cases? DIY fixes last longer than folks think, especially if you’re willing to re-check every fall.
Yeah, finding those sneaky drafts is half the battle. I tried the candle trick last fall and was surprised how many little leaks were hiding around the frame—especially near the locks and at the bottom corners. Picked up some weatherstripping and honestly, it made a bigger difference than I expected. My heating bill dropped a bit, and the living room doesn’t feel as chilly in the mornings.
I do think you’re right about knowing when to call it quits, though. My neighbor kept patching his old windows for years, but once the wood started crumbling, nothing really helped. Sometimes you just gotta bite the bullet and replace.
But for most folks with decent frames, a little elbow grease goes a long way. I just make it part of my fall routine now—takes maybe an hour per window, tops, and it’s kinda satisfying seeing those gaps disappear. Not fancy, but it works.
You nailed it with the candle trick—those little drafts are sneaky. I’ve had good luck with weatherstripping too, especially in my old 60s ranch. It’s not glamorous work, but sealing up those cracks makes a real difference, especially when the wind picks up in January. I will say, there’s a point where patching becomes more hassle than it’s worth. Once you start seeing rot or soft spots, it’s usually time to start saving for replacements. Until then, though, a bit of foam and some patience goes a long way... plus, it’s weirdly satisfying to see your energy bill drop a few bucks.
Once you start seeing rot or soft spots, it’s usually time to start saving for replacements.
Couldn’t agree more—once you poke your finger through the frame, no amount of foam is gonna save it. But hey, until then? Nothing wrong with squeezing every ounce out of those old windows. I’ve patched mine so many times I swear they’re held together by caulk and hope.
That’s honestly how I feel too—if it’s not falling apart, I’m patching it. My windows are old and drafty, but a little caulk and weatherstrip keeps them going for now. No shame in stretching things out until replacement is really needed.
I’m right there with you—if a little caulk and weatherstrip can keep the cold air out, why rush to drop thousands on new windows? I’ve patched mine up for years now. That said, I do wonder sometimes if the energy bills would actually drop enough to justify replacing them sooner. Has anyone actually tracked before-and-after costs when they finally bit the bullet and upgraded?