I hear you on the charm of old windows, but after trying to rehab a few, I kinda hit my limit. The drafts were brutal, even with storm windows, and my heating bills were getting out of hand. I ended up caving for replacements in the bedrooms—honestly, sleeping without a freezing draft was worth it for me. Maybe I’m just less patient with winter than I used to be...
I totally get the temptation to just rip out the old windows and call it a day—those drafts are no joke in the dead of winter. But I’ve managed to keep my 1920s sashes and still stay warm, so maybe worth sharing what worked for me before going full replacement.
First, I did a deep dive on weatherstripping. Not the stick-on foam stuff, but actual spring bronze or silicone V-seals. It’s tedious and you need to pull out the stops, but it made a shocking difference in air leakage—like, actually measurable with an incense stick test. Then I reglazed all the panes (which is a pain, yeah), and used removable interior window film in winter for an extra air barrier.
Storm windows are only as good as their fit—if there’s any gap at all, you’re still losing heat. I learned that the hard way with some off-the-shelf storms that never quite sealed.
It’s definitely more work up front, but if you like the look of your old windows, there’s hope for keeping them without freezing at night. The energy savings aren’t always instant, but over time it adds up... plus, less landfill waste from tossing good wood frames. Just takes a stubborn streak and maybe a few podcasts to get through all that weatherstripping.
- Totally hear you on the stubborn streak—sometimes that’s what it takes to keep those old windows going.
- Spring bronze weatherstripping is a game changer. Did mine last fall and noticed the drafts were way less intense.
- It’s a slog, but saving the original woodwork feels worth it, especially when you think about all that landfill waste from replacements.
- Not gonna lie, I did get impatient with glazing. Ended up with some fingerprints in the putty, but hey, it works.
- Those little upgrades add up, and honestly, the character of old windows is tough to beat.
Funny how you start out thinking it’s just “a window,” then three hours later you’re scraping ancient paint and cursing whoever invented sash cords. I totally get the glazing struggle—my first try looked like a toddler did it, but hey, it keeps the rain out. The spring bronze was a surprise win for me too. Honestly, I was skeptical at first, but the difference in drafts was huge. I still can’t bring myself to toss those old wavy glass panes. It’s a pain, but there’s something about the quirks that makes the hassle feel worth it... most days, anyway.
It’s always more work than people expect—old windows are stubborn. You’re right about the glazing, by the way; nobody nails that on the first try. The wavy glass is a pain to deal with, but I get why you’d keep it. There’s real character there, and modern stuff just doesn’t have the same look. Spring bronze is underrated—costs a bit more upfront, but it actually seals out drafts for good. Good on you for sticking it out… most folks would’ve just swapped in vinyl and called it a day.
Couldn’t agree more about the spring bronze—it’s not the cheapest, but I noticed a huge difference with drafts once I put it in. The old glazing was a total mess for me, too. Took a few tries to get it looking halfway decent, and my lines still aren’t perfect. I will say, though, I was tempted by vinyl for a minute when I hit my third broken pane. But there’s just something about that old glass, right? Even with the extra hassle, I’d do it again.
But there’s just something about that old glass, right? Even with the extra hassle, I’d do it again.
Totally get this. I’ve done both—vinyl in the basement, kept the old glass upstairs. The energy savings from spring bronze are real, but I still wrestle with those wavy panes every winter. If you’re after efficiency, it’s worth the hassle... but yeah, it’s a learning curve. I found a heat gun helped with stubborn glazing, but patience is key.
That wavy glass really does have a charm you just can’t replicate. I’ve tackled a few myself—first time, I underestimated just how stubborn old glazing putty can be. I’d agree, the heat gun is a lifesaver, but it’s slow going. I usually go in with a utility knife to score around the edges first, then gently work the glass free. It’s tedious, but if you keep your pace steady and don’t rush, you’re way less likely to crack a pane. Definitely worth it if you love the look, but yeah... not for the faint of heart.
- Couldn’t agree more about the wavy glass—nothing like it.
- That putty’s basically fossilized concrete sometimes.
- Heat gun is solid, but I’ve actually had better luck with a steamer. Less risk of scorching the wood, and it softens the putty just enough.
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“if you keep your pace steady and don’t rush, you’re way less likely to crack a pane.”
- For sure, patience is everything. I’ve cracked a few just getting cocky at the end.
- And don’t get me started on the random nails or old glazing points hiding in there... those things are like booby traps.
- Worth it for the character, but man, it’s a workout.
That old putty is no joke—felt like I needed a jackhammer the first time I tried to chip it out. I hear you on the nails, too. I swear, I found one that looked like it was holding the whole window together... probably from 1920. I tried the heat gun route and managed to toast a bit of trim (oops), so I might give the steamer a shot next time. It’s wild how much sweat goes into keeping that wavy glass, but honestly, I’d rather wrestle with ancient windows than stare at new vinyl ones.