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Things I wish I'd known before new windows went in

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hollychef928
Posts: 7
(@hollychef928)
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“The blobs are annoying, but I’d rather trim them than deal with a cold draft all winter.”

I hear that. Last winter I got a little too enthusiastic with the spray foam around my kitchen window. Looked like a marshmallow exploded. My wife still jokes about my “abstract insulation art.” But you know what? The kitchen stayed toasty, so I’ll take the weird foam blobs over that freezing draft any day.

About cleanup—yeah, gloves are non-negotiable. One time I skipped them and ended up with sticky hands for three days. Tried everything from dish soap to rubbing alcohol... nothing worked. My fingerprints were basically useless for a week.

I get the point about not overfilling too. Less is definitely more. First time I used foam, I thought more would mean better insulation, but then it expanded and pushed the window trim out of alignment. Had to redo half the job.

Honestly, after dealing with caulk that won’t cure in the cold, I’m sticking with foam—even if it’s messy. Midwest winters make you pick your battles, and warm beats pretty every time.


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mochadiver
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That makes me feel a little better about my own attempts with spray foam. The first time I used it, I was so worried about leaving gaps that I ended up with these weird, puffy blobs everywhere. It honestly looked like someone had tried to pipe meringue around all my window frames. I definitely underestimated how much the stuff expands—didn’t realize you’re supposed to use such a light hand. That “less is more” thing doesn’t really click until you’re chiseling dried foam off your trim.

I totally relate to the sticky hands struggle too. I figured, “How bad can it be?” and skipped the gloves. Big mistake. Ended up googling how to get foam off skin and the answers were… not encouraging. Acetone helped a little, but mostly I just had to wait for it to wear off. Felt like I was wearing invisible mittens for days.

I keep hearing people say caulk is easier, but I’ve had the same issue with it not curing when it’s cold. Maybe I’m just impatient, but waiting a week for it to stop being tacky isn’t my idea of progress. The foam is messy, sure, but at least you know it’s sealing things up tight.

It’s kind of reassuring to hear I’m not the only one who’s had to redo a window trim after overdoing it. Sometimes I wonder if there’s a trick I’m missing, or if it’s just the nature of these projects. Either way, I’d rather deal with a little ugly foam than sit in a drafty living room all winter. Warmth definitely wins out.

Honestly, I think there’s something kind of satisfying about knowing you did the work yourself—even if it’s not perfect. At least you know what’s behind the trim, right?


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luckyw99
Posts: 8
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I get the appeal of spray foam for sealing drafts, but honestly, I’ve seen a lot of trim and window frames warped from overapplication. The stuff can exert more pressure than people expect, especially on older woodwork. Sometimes a good backer rod and high-quality caulk—applied when temps are right—ends up looking cleaner and avoids headaches later. I know foam feels like a quick fix, but it’s not always the best for every situation.


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jpupper70
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“I’ve seen a lot of trim and window frames warped from overapplication. The stuff can exert more pressure than people expect, especially on older woodwork.”

Man, you nailed it. I watched a guy try to “fix” a drafty bay window with a whole can of foam once—looked like the trim was trying to escape the house by morning. It’s crazy how much that stuff can push. Ever tried scraping dried foam off 100-year-old oak? Not my favorite Saturday. I get why folks reach for it, but sometimes less is more, y’know?


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fbrown42
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looked like the trim was trying to escape the house by morning

Seen that happen too. Used to think “more is better” until I had to pry foam off old fir casings—ended up with gouges everywhere. Now I just do a light bead and call it good. That expanding stuff doesn’t mess around.


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gaming_emily
Posts: 28
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Now I just do a light bead and call it good. That expanding stuff doesn’t mess around.

Totally agree—less is definitely more with that foam. First time I used it, I thought I was being super thorough, but by the next morning the trim looked warped and I had this weird, dried-up marshmallow oozing out everywhere. Spent most of the afternoon just trying to clean up my own mess.

One thing I wish I’d realized: temperature really seems to affect how much that foam expands. Did a couple windows in late fall and the stuff barely puffed up, then in spring it was like a science experiment gone wrong. Also, those “minimal expansion” cans still puff out more than you’d expect. I’ve started taping off around the opening just in case.

Honestly, if you’re even a little unsure, starting with less and adding more later is so much easier than scraping dried foam off old woodwork. Learned that the hard way—live and learn, right?


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Posts: 10
(@dtail32)
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I’ve had the same thing happen with the foam—thought I was being careful, but it still pushed my window trim out a bit. The temp swings definitely mess with it. Now I just cut back any excess with a sharp blade after it cures, but honestly, sometimes I wonder if backer rod and caulk would be less hassle for smaller gaps. Anyone else tried that route?


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history_nala6788
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I’ve had mixed results with the foam too, especially in older houses where nothing’s square. It expands more than you expect, even the “low-expansion” stuff. For small gaps (like under 1/2 inch), I’ve actually switched to backer rod and caulk more often than not. Here’s what’s worked for me:

1. Push the right size backer rod in—don’t force it, just snug.
2. Use a high-quality exterior caulk (I like the polyurethane ones, but they’re sticky).
3. Tool it smooth with a wet finger or a plastic spoon.

It’s a little slower than blasting foam in, but you get way less mess and no pressure on the trim. Plus, easier to touch up down the road if things settle or shift. Only downside is it doesn’t insulate quite as well as foam, but for smaller gaps near finished surfaces, I’ll take neat over R-value any day.

Had one spot where I used too much foam and ended up having to re-set the whole piece of trim... definitely learned my lesson there.


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Posts: 9
(@eseeker92)
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That “low-expansion” foam is a real trickster, isn’t it? I’ve had it sneak out from behind trim like it’s trying to escape the house. I totally get what you mean about neatness—

for smaller gaps near finished surfaces, I’ll take neat over R-value any day.
Couldn’t agree more. The last thing I want is to be chiseling dried foam off painted wood.

I’ve been using backer rod and caulk for those wonky, uneven gaps too, especially after one memorable incident where the foam basically pushed my window stool out by half an inch. Took me longer to fix than the whole rest of the install.

One thing I haven’t quite figured out: do you bother taping off the trim before caulking, or just go slow and hope for the best? I always start with good intentions but halfway through, I’m just wiping up smears with a damp rag and hoping nobody looks too close. Anyone got a trick for keeping it tidy without spending forever masking everything?


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Posts: 5
(@rubycarter556)
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Masking tape sounds great in theory, but honestly, I almost never have the patience for it unless it’s a really visible spot. The first couple times I tried, it took me longer to tape than to actually caulk, and I still managed to smear a bit here and there. What’s worked better for me is a sort of “quick-prep” routine:

1. I keep a stack of damp rags or paper towels right next to me—like, within arm’s reach.
2. I cut the caulk tube tip smaller than I think I’ll need. It helps keep the bead more controlled, especially around trim where you don’t want a big mess.
3. Instead of taping, I just run the bead slowly with steady pressure, then immediately smooth it out with a wet finger (sometimes I dip my finger in a little soapy water first).
4. If anything gets on the trim, I wipe it off right away before it skins over.

It’s not perfect, but after a couple windows, I got a lot faster and neater. The trick for me is not trying to do too long of a bead at once—short sections are way easier to control. Also, if you let the caulk set for even a few minutes before wiping, it’s a pain to get off, so I work in small zones.

I’ve seen people use those little plastic caulking tools, but they’re hit or miss for me. Sometimes they just make a bigger mess if there’s too much excess.

This might sound a bit fussy, but I also keep a utility knife handy for cleanup after it dries—if there’s any stray bits, a gentle scrape usually does the trick without messing up the paint.

Honestly, unless you’re super particular or doing high-gloss trim in a prominent spot, I wouldn’t bother taping every time. The “go slow and wipe as you go” method seems to be the happy medium between neatness and not losing your weekend to masking tape.

Funny enough, the only time I regretted not taping was on a dark-painted window frame—white caulk shows every little slip. Otherwise, I just live with the occasional tiny wobble.


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