I’m about to tackle replacing the trim around my living room windows, but I’m second guessing myself on how to get the measurements right. Do you guys usually measure just the inside edge, or do you include the outside corners too? My house is old (like, 1960s), so nothing’s perfectly square. Any tips for dealing with weird angles or slightly warped frames? Would love to hear what’s worked (or not) for others.
I just measure the outside corners since that’s what shows, but yeah, those old frames are never square. I usually cut one piece a bit long and sneak up on the fit—saves me from cursing too much when it’s off by a hair. For weird angles, a little painter’s caulk hides a lot...
- Totally agree on sneaking up on the fit—learned that one the hard way after trimming too much off more than once.
- I’ve started using a combo square to check for out-of-square corners. Makes a difference, but sometimes it just confirms how wonky things are.
- For old plaster walls, I’ll run a pencil along the trim edge to scribe the line—helps when nothing is straight.
- Caulk is magic for gaps, but I try not to rely on it too much. Had one spot where it shrank and cracked... lesson learned.
Sneaking up on the fit has definitely saved me some headaches, especially when the wall’s not even close to square. I’ve got a 1920s place and none of the openings are what you’d call “standard”—I swear, every window is its own adventure. Combo square helps, but sometimes I feel like it just tells me how far off everything is, not how to fix it.
I’ve tried scribing with a pencil too, mostly on those old plaster walls where nothing’s straight and you end up with weird gaps if you just measure. The trick for me is figuring out which part of the trim to scribe from—sometimes it’s the inside edge, sometimes outside, depending on what’ll show less. I’ve also used painter’s tape as a sort of temporary “scribe line” when I want to see if my cut will actually look right before committing.
Caulk can be a lifesaver for tiny gaps but I get nervous about using it for anything bigger than a hairline. I had one spot over a radiator where the caulk shrank and cracked after a couple months—probably from all the temperature swings. Ever tried using wood filler or putty instead in spots like that? I’ve heard mixed things about longevity.
Curious if anyone’s tried templating with cardboard or thin plywood for those really odd-shaped windows? Sometimes I think it might be faster than measuring and hoping for the best, but then again, maybe that’s just trading one hassle for another. What’s everyone doing when you’ve got trim that has to wrap around weird angles or settle into lumpy plaster?
Sometimes I think it might be faster than measuring and hoping for the best, but then again, maybe that’s just trading one hassle for another. What’s everyone doing when you’ve got trim that ...
Cardboard templates have bailed me out more times than I can count, especially in spots where the plaster’s wavy or the frame’s gone a bit cattywampus. I’ll rough-cut a piece, trim it down till it hugs the wall, then trace that onto my trim. It’s not fast, but it saves me from burning through expensive wood with “oops” cuts. I do agree on caulk—fine for hairlines, but anything bigger and it just looks sloppy after a while. For bigger gaps, I’ve packed in wood filler and sanded flush; holds up better long-term, especially if you prime it well. There’s always that one window that makes you question your life choices, though...
I get the appeal of cardboard templates, but honestly, I’ve had better luck just scribing directly with a compass when the walls are really out of whack. It’s a bit old-school, but you can get a cleaner fit, especially on those 1920s plaster jobs where nothing’s square. Wood filler’s okay for small stuff, but I’d rather rip a new piece than rely on it for anything structural—seen too many cracks show up after a season or two. Guess it depends how picky you want to get...
Yeah, I’m with you—compass scribe is way more reliable when the walls are goofy. Tried the cardboard thing a few times and always ended up trimming or shimming anyway. Wood filler’s just asking for trouble if it’s more than a little gap. Learned that the hard way on my last place…
Cardboard templates are just asking for double the work, honestly. I used to mess with that, thinking I’d save time, but you end up tracing, cutting, fitting, and then trimming anyway. Compass scribe’s the only way I trust, especially in these old houses where nothing’s square. Tried wood filler for a bigger gap once—regretted it every time I looked at the window. It shrank and cracked after the first winter, and I had to redo the whole sill. If you want it to last and actually look good, scribe it right the first time and save yourself the headache. There’s no shortcut for wavy plaster walls, just patience and a sharp pencil.
Couldn’t agree more on the scribing—once you’ve tried it, there’s just no going back.
That’s the truth. I used to think a little extra caulk or filler would hide my sins, but old houses have a way of exposing every shortcut eventually. One thing I’ve found helps is running a bit of painter’s tape along the wall first, so you can mark and scribe without messing up the paint. Not a game-changer, but it keeps things tidy.There’s no shortcut for wavy plaster walls, just patience and a sharp pencil.
Painter’s tape is a clever idea—I usually just end up with pencil marks everywhere and hope they erase. Have you ever tried using a profile gauge for the really uneven spots? I’ve heard mixed things, but never actually picked one up. Wonder if it’s worth the hassle or just another gadget collecting dust.