Yeah, rope caulk’s decent for a season, but once it dries out, it just doesn’t flex much—easy to knock loose. Tape kits work alright if you don’t mind the plastic look, but you’ve got to prep the surface or it’ll peel, especially on old paint. Magnetic kits are slick, but most adhesives will pull paint if it’s not solid. Honestly, if your sashes are really drafty, sometimes just weatherstripping the meeting rails and adding a storm window buys you a lot of comfort without dropping big money on replacements.
Honestly, if your sashes are really drafty, sometimes just weatherstripping the meeting rails and adding a storm window buys you a lot of comfort without dropping big money on replacements.
Couldn’t agree more. I tried the tape kits last winter—looked a bit cheap, but did cut down on drafts. Prepping the surface was a pain, though, and I ended up peeling some paint off when I removed it in spring. For me, adding storm windows and some adhesive-backed foam weatherstripping made a bigger difference. Not the prettiest fix, but definitely warmer. If you’re dealing with old wood windows like mine, sometimes it’s just about layering solutions until you find what works.
Interesting to hear everyone's take, but I’ll throw a bit of a curveball here. While storm windows and weatherstripping do help, I’ve actually seen situations where over-layering (especially with older wood sashes) traps moisture and accelerates rot. Tape kits can be a hassle, sure, but at least they’re reversible and don’t mess with the window’s ability to “breathe.” Sometimes I wonder if the quick fixes end up costing more in repairs down the line... Anyone else run into that with layered solutions?
That’s actually a solid point—overdoing it with layers can backfire, especially in old houses. We tried double storm windows and heavy weatherstripping on our 1920s place, and the sashes started feeling damp all the time. Ended up with some peeling paint and soft spots. The tape kits are fussy, but at least when spring rolls around, you just peel them off and check for any issues. I’d say if you’re worried about rot, less permanent is probably safer. Don’t blame you for being cautious—sometimes “fixes” create their own headaches.
sometimes “fixes” create their own headaches.
Yeah, I’ve run into that myself—tried to “seal everything up tight” in our 1935 bungalow, and suddenly had condensation between the panes all winter. It’s tempting to go overboard, but old wood needs to breathe a bit or you’re just asking for trouble. Tape kits aren’t perfect, but at least they don’t trap moisture long-term. Honestly, I’d rather deal with a draft than rotting sills... drafty windows are annoying, but rot is expensive.
I get where you’re coming from—tried the full plastic wrap and tape approach in my 1920s place, and yeah, it stopped drafts but made the glass sweat like crazy. There’s a fine line between “energy efficient” and “accidental greenhouse.” At this point, I just patch the worst leaks and accept a little airflow... beats dealing with moldy frames down the road.
You’re not wrong about the “accidental greenhouse” thing—plastic wrap can trap moisture like crazy, especially on old single-pane glass. I’ve seen folks go overboard with sealing and end up with rotted sills a year later. Honestly, a little controlled airflow isn’t the enemy, especially in a house that old. Targeting the big leaks and letting the windows breathe a bit is usually smarter than hermetically sealing everything. If you’re seeing condensation, that’s your house telling you to ease up. Sometimes “good enough” really is best.
Honestly, a little controlled airflow isn’t the enemy, especially in a house that old.
Curious—has anyone tried using the tape just around the sash where the draft is worst, instead of sealing the whole window? I keep seeing people go all-in, but I wonder if spot-treating gives you the draft control without the moisture headaches. Also, does anyone notice tape leaving residue or damaging old paint after a season? That’s my big hesitation.
Spot-treating with tape’s actually what I do for my own 1920s place. Here’s what I’ve noticed over a bunch of winters:
- Full window taping always seemed overkill, especially since you want *some* air exchange in these old houses or you’ll start seeing condensation and paint issues. Spot sealing the sash or just the worst gaps gets maybe 80% of the benefit without that “plastic bubble” feeling.
- Tape residue depends a lot on the paint quality and age. On my windows with newer latex paint, no problem—comes off clean every spring. But on sashes with brittle old oil paint? Yeah, sometimes the tape pulls up flakes or leaves a gummy mess that’s a pain to scrub off. If you’re worried, painter’s tape or those removable weatherstripping tapes are less aggressive than the cheap clear stuff.
- Moisture headaches? Had one year where I sealed up *too* well and ended up with some mildew at the bottom corners by March. Since then, I leave one window unsealed for a little airflow and haven’t had trouble.
- For drafts, I actually had better luck using rope caulk in stubborn spots—it comes off cleaner than tape and doesn’t mess with the paint at all.
Honestly, if your main draft is around the sash, just hit that spot and see how it goes. Worst case, you might need to touch up some paint in spring, but it beats repainting whole sashes or dealing with warped wood from trapped moisture. Not perfect, but nothing in these old houses ever is...
Spot sealing the sash or just the worst gaps gets maybe 80% of the benefit without that “plastic bubble” feeling.
I’ve always wondered about that “plastic bubble” vibe. Tried full taping one winter—felt like living in Tupperware, and still got condensation. Rope caulk has been my go-to lately. It’s weirdly satisfying to peel off in spring, too.