Removable silicone’s still my go-to for tricky frames, though. It’s just more forgiving if you’re dealing with crumbly old paint...
I get the appeal of silicone, but I’ve had it pull off chunks of flaky paint when removing it—especially if the surface wasn’t prepped well. Ever tried the rope caulk? Not perfect, but easier to work with on uneven frames, and you can just peel it away in spring. Curious if anyone’s had better luck with that on really old sashes.
I get the appeal of silicone, but I’ve had it pull off chunks of flaky paint when removing it—especially if the surface wasn’t prepped well.
Man, I hear you on that. Tried silicone on my 1920s windows and ended up with more paint on the caulk than left on the frame. Rope caulk’s been my lazy day fix—just smash it in with your thumb and forget about it until April. Not perfect, but at least I’m not repainting every spring. Draft’s still there if you stand close enough, but it’s better than nothing.
Rope caulk’s been my lazy day fix—just smash it in with your thumb and forget about it until April.
That’s pretty much how I survived last winter. Rope caulk isn’t pretty, but it’s fast, and you can peel it off without taking half the window frame with you. I tried that plastic window sealing tape once—hair dryer and all—and honestly, it worked shockingly well for my draftiest window. Only thing is, you can’t open the window till spring unless you want to redo the whole thing. Not ideal if you’re desperate for some fresh air in February... but my heating bill thanked me.
Only thing is, you can’t open the window till spring unless you want to redo the whole thing. Not ideal if you’re desperate for some fresh air in February... but my heating bill thanked me.
That’s the trade-off, isn’t it? I’ve been in this house long enough to remember when rope caulk was about all anyone used. Like you said, it’s not much to look at, but it gets the job done in a pinch. A few years back, I gave that plastic window film a try on the north-facing windows—those are always the worst for drafts in my place. It really did help with the cold spots and the bill, but I definitely missed being able to crack a window when we’d get those freak warm spells in February.
Honestly, I think it comes down to how much you need the fresh air versus how much you want to keep things sealed tight. For me, once I realized just how much warmer the living room stayed (and how much less the furnace kicked on), I was willing to give up opening a window or two for a few months. Anyway, sounds like you’re figuring out what works for your place—which is half the battle with these old houses.
For me, once I realized just how much warmer the living room stayed (and how much less the furnace kicked on), I was willing to give up opening a window or two for a few months.
Same here—after sealing up the worst windows with tape and film, it was a noticeable difference in comfort. Not being able to air things out is annoying sometimes, but honestly, the lower heating bill makes it worth it most winters. If you’re dealing with old wood frames like mine, nothing’s perfect, but every little bit helps.
I get the appeal of taping and sealing, especially if you’re seeing a big drop in your heating bill. I did the whole plastic film thing one year when we had a crazy cold snap, and it definitely helped cut down on drafts. But after a while, I started to miss being able to crack a window for some fresh air—even just for a few minutes. Our house gets that stuffy, “lived-in” smell pretty quickly in winter, especially with two kids and a dog running around. The condensation was another issue—sometimes the inside of the film would get foggy or even freeze up, which made things feel damp.
One thing I tried last year instead of going full-seal was using those rope caulk strips around the edges. They’re not as airtight as the plastic film, but you can pull them off easily if you want to open a window for a bit. It’s kind of a halfway measure, but it made a difference without making things feel so closed-in. I also picked up some heavier curtains for the worst windows—nothing fancy, just thrift store finds—and that seemed to help, too.
I get that not every old window is worth saving, but sometimes I wonder if the trade-off is worth it, especially if you like a bit of airflow now and then. The bills are lower, sure, but sometimes comfort isn’t just about temperature. Maybe I’m just stubborn about wanting to open a window in January… but there’s something about fresh air that makes winter feel less claustrophobic.
Curious if anyone else tries more temporary fixes instead of full-on sealing—seems like there are a bunch of ways to tackle the draft problem without totally giving up on opening your windows for months at a time.
Totally get where you’re coming from—there’s just something about that burst of cold air in January that makes the house feel less stale. I tried the plastic film once and it worked for drafts, but I hated not being able to open the window even a crack. Rope caulk is a good compromise, honestly. Heavy curtains have been my go-to lately, too. Not perfect, but they help without making the place feel sealed up like a Tupperware container. Sometimes it’s about finding what bugs you least, not just what saves the most money.
Plastic film is decent for drafts, but yeah, it’s a pain if you want to crack the window for fresh air. Rope caulk’s a solid middle ground—easy to put in, easy to pull out, and doesn’t mess with the window function much. Heavy curtains help with heat loss, but they won’t stop actual air leaks.
Honestly, window sealing tape works okay if the frame’s in decent shape, but it can peel or leave residue if you’re not careful. I’ve seen a lot of folks get frustrated with it on older wood windows where the paint’s flaking. Ever tried weatherstripping instead? It’s not as permanent as caulk and lets you open the window when you want. Just curious—are your windows old wood or newer vinyl? That can make a big difference in what actually works for drafts.
I’ve always wondered if anyone’s tried those magnetic window insulator kits on older wood frames. I’ve got a 1950s house and the paint’s not exactly pristine, so tape tends to peel for me too. Do you find rope caulk holds up through a whole winter, or does it start to sag or dry out after a while? I keep debating whether it’s worth re-caulking every year or just biting the bullet and replacing a few windows...
I tried rope caulk for the first time last winter on my 1948 windows, and honestly, it held up better than I expected. It didn’t really sag, but by March it got kind of brittle and some spots cracked if I bumped them. Not sure it’d last two seasons, especially if you move the windows at all. Magnetic kits sound interesting, but I’d worry about the paint too... replacing a couple windows is tempting, but the cost adds up fast.