I’ve run into the same issue with magnetic kits on old woodwork—if the trim isn’t flat, those magnets just don’t want to cooperate. I’ve had a few clients where we had to use extra weatherstripping or even a thin bead of silicone in spots to get things tight. In my experience, the magnets hold up okay through winter as long as you prep the surface, but if the paint’s flaking or there’s a lot of texture, they can lose grip after a while. Tape leaves residue, yeah, but sometimes it’s just less hassle than fighting with uneven trim. Both options have trade-offs, honestly.
That’s a familiar struggle. I’ve dealt with old, uneven window trim in my 1920s bungalow and those magnetic kits can be a headache—especially if you’ve got layers of paint or the wood’s warped over time. I agree with what you said here:
Tape leaves residue, yeah, but sometimes it’s just less hassle than fighting with uneven trim. Both options have trade-offs, honestly.
For me, the tape method has been more forgiving on weird surfaces. The residue is annoying, but nothing a little Goo Gone and patience can’t handle. I usually do a quick sanding on really rough spots before applying tape, just to give it a fighting chance of sticking through winter. Not perfect, but it helps.
One thing I’ve noticed: silicone bead works well for sealing gaps permanently, but if you’re renting or want to open the windows in spring, it’s not ideal. I tried removable caulk one year—messy but surprisingly effective—and it peeled off pretty clean in April.
Weatherstripping is another route, though on old frames it sometimes won’t compress enough to seal out drafts unless you double up. I’ve layered foam and tape together in a pinch when nothing else seemed to work.
Honestly, none of these are magic bullets for old houses. It’s always some combination of prep work and compromise. If you’re after something temporary that won’t mess up your trim long-term, the tape is probably your best bet—even if cleanup’s a bit of a pain later.
Curious if anyone else has found a “set it and forget it” solution for stubborn old windows... because I sure haven’t!
That’s pretty much the story of every old house owner, isn’t it? I’ve spent way too many chilly weekends trying to outsmart drafts in my 1915 foursquare, and honestly, I’m convinced the windows are winning half the time. You nailed it with the “no magic bullet” comment—sometimes it feels like you’re just picking your battles.
I totally get what you mean about tape being more forgiving. I’ve had those magnetic kits pop off mid-winter when the trim flexes or the paint decides to flake, and then you’re stuck with a half-sealed window and a cold living room. Tape’s not perfect, but at least you can patch it up quick if it starts peeling. And yeah, residue’s annoying, but it beats scraping off silicone in April or dealing with sticky foam that never quite comes off.
Removable caulk was a game-changer for me one year—I was skeptical, but it actually held up better than I expected. Only downside was it left little bits behind in the corners that took some picking to get out, but way less hassle than redoing weatherstripping every season. Speaking of which, I’ve layered foam and tape too, especially on the windows that rattle when the wind picks up. Not pretty, but it keeps the draft out of my office.
I wish there was a true “set and forget” solution too. The closest I’ve come is those shrink-wrap window film kits—if you don’t mind losing access to the window for the winter, they’re surprisingly effective. But even then, you have to be careful with the tape around old paint or it’ll pull chunks off in the spring.
Honestly, your approach sounds spot-on: a little prep, some compromise, and a willingness to accept that nothing’s going to be perfect. At least we get bonus character from all those wavy panes and quirky trim... right?
Yeah, the “character” of old windows is definitely a double-edged sword. I’m in a 1920s bungalow and it’s like every window has its own personality... and none of them like to cooperate when it gets cold. I tried the shrink-wrap film this winter too—honestly, I was surprised how much warmer the living room felt, but you’re right about the tape. Lost a few paint chips around the edges when I pulled it off, which was kind of a bummer.
I haven’t tried removable caulk yet, but that actually sounds less messy than dealing with foam. The foam strips I used last year never really stuck well to the uneven trim, and half of them ended up on the floor by February. Tape’s been hit or miss for me—sometimes it seals great, sometimes it just peels off when the temperature swings.
Has anyone found something that works for those windows that don’t quite close all the way? I keep thinking there must be a trick besides just shoving towels in the gaps...
Has anyone found something that works for those windows that don’t quite close all the way? I keep thinking there must be a trick besides just shoving towels in the gaps...
I’ve been wrestling with this exact thing for years—our old casement windows have “character” too (aka, gaps you could lose loose change in). I tried those rope caulk strips a couple winters back, and they actually weren’t terrible. You just smoosh them into the crack and peel them off in the spring. Not the prettiest, but less messy than foam and didn’t take off any paint for me.
I’ve always wondered if anyone’s had luck with those magnetic interior storm panels? They seem pricey, but if they work, maybe it’s worth the investment? The shrink-wrap film is decent, but yeah, the tape is a gamble—sometimes it holds, sometimes it rips off a chunk of 90-year-old paint.
Is there some secret to getting the windows to close tighter in the first place? I keep thinking I’m missing a trick, short of rehanging the sashes or something drastic. Or am I just doomed to the towel-in-the-gap life every winter?
Is there some secret to getting the windows to close tighter in the first place? I keep thinking I’m missing a trick, short of rehanging the sashes or something drastic. Or am I just doomed to the towel-in-the-gap life every winter?
You’re definitely not alone—our 1920s bungalow has those same stubborn gaps. For years, I was convinced there had to be some magical fix, but honestly, sometimes it’s just the age of the wood and how much it’s warped over time. I’ve tried adjusting the hardware and even gave the sashes a gentle nudge with a rubber mallet (probably not recommended, but desperation does funny things). It helped a bit, but nothing dramatic.
That rope caulk is underrated, though. Not glamorous, but it saves you from scraping tape residue for hours come spring. As for those magnetic panels, a neighbor swears by them—she says her living room finally feels warm—but they are a chunk of change. I keep thinking about biting the bullet, but then another drafty season rolls around and I’m back to my old tricks.
Honestly, I think we all end up with some version of “character” in these old houses... towels, caulk, maybe even a creative throw blanket here or there. Hang in there—it’s not just you!
Honestly, I think we all end up with some version of “character” in these old houses... towels, caulk, maybe even a creative throw blanket here or there.
That’s the truth. I’ve had better luck with weatherstripping than with tape, to be honest. The foam kind you press into the sash channels helps a lot, and you don’t have to deal with sticky residue later. I did try the shrink film kits one year—worked okay, but a pain to get off in spring. If you’re handy, adjusting the window locks can sometimes pull the sashes tighter, but it’s not always perfect. Old windows just have their quirks...
- Used tape a few times—always ended up regretting it when I had to scrape off the sticky bits months later.
- Foam weatherstripping’s been my go-to for drafty sashes. Cheap, easy, and doesn’t mess up the paint.
- Had one window where even that didn’t cut it... ended up just stuffing in some wool socks for the winter. Not pretty, but hey, whatever works.
- Anyone else notice old wood frames swell and shrink so much, what works one year might not the next?
Anyone else notice old wood frames swell and shrink so much, what works one year might not the next?
That’s the story of my house—1920s wood windows that seem to have a mind of their own. Last winter I thought I’d finally figured it out with the foam strips, but then spring came and suddenly I couldn’t get the sash open without a wrestling match. A friend swears by the removable caulk for the worst gaps, but I’ve had mixed results. Sometimes it peels off fine, other times it takes half the paint with it.
Funny about the wool socks—I’ve done similar with a rolled-up towel when I was desperate. Honestly, sometimes the “ugly but it works” solutions beat all the fancy stuff. I hear you on the tape too. Tried it one year and was still picking sticky residue off in July.
Wood frames just do their own thing with the seasons... I wish there was a fix that lasted more than a year, but so far it’s been a rotating cast of solutions for me. Maybe someday I'll just bite the bullet and get storm windows, but that’s a whole other can of worms.
Those old wood frames really do keep you guessing. I’ve worked on a bunch of pre-war houses and it’s always the same song and dance—one season, everything fits like a glove; next, you’re shoving the sash with your shoulder and hoping nothing cracks. I remember one client who tried every sealant and tape on the market, but the wood still moved just enough to break the seal or leave sticky gunk behind.
I’ve had the best luck with a combination approach: weatherstripping that can flex a bit, plus those shrink-wrap window kits in the winter. Not pretty, but at least you can peel it off come spring without a mess. Removable caulk is hit or miss—sometimes it comes off clean, sometimes it takes a chunk of paint or even a sliver of wood if the frame’s dry.
Storm windows are a commitment, but honestly, for folks tired of the yearly battle, they do make life easier. Not cheap, though, and if your frames aren’t square anymore, that’s another project. Sometimes I think old houses just want to keep us on our toes...