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CHEAP WAYS TO KEEP THE COLD OUT OF OLD WINDOWS?

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timmentor
Posts: 32
(@timmentor)
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- Totally get where you’re coming from—those old windows are stubborn.
- I’ve used the foam strips too. Not pretty, but honestly, they work better than I expected for the price.
- Draft snakes help a bit, but I always end up tripping over them or the dog drags them off...
- Tried the shrink film a couple times. If the frame’s warped, it’s basically impossible to get a tight seal. I usually end up with a weird plastic bubble by February.
- Heavy curtains make a difference too, especially at night. Not a fix for gaps, but keeps the chill out of the room.
- Like you said, unless you want to drop serious cash on new windows, it’s just patching things up every year. But hey, if it keeps the bills from getting ridiculous, I’m all for it.
- Sometimes I wonder if it’s worth just stuffing old socks in the worst gaps—cheap and easy, even if it looks ridiculous.

You’re definitely not alone dealing with these winter window hacks.


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jessicas27
Posts: 9
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Old socks in the window cracks—hey, whatever works, right? I’ve seen folks use just about everything short of duct taping the whole window shut. Out of curiosity, has anyone tried rope caulk? Cheap, easy to mush into weird gaps, and you can peel it off in spring (though sometimes it leaves a residue). I always wonder if it’s worth messing with, or if it just ends up as another sticky mess... Anyone have luck with that, or is it just another “good in theory” fix?


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Posts: 9
(@kathy_blizzard)
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Tried rope caulk a few winters back when I was desperate to stop drafts in our old double-hung windows (house is 1920s, so gaps everywhere). Here’s my quick take:

- Super cheap, and you can get a ton of it for not much.
- Goes on easy—seriously, just roll and press it in. Great for weird-shaped gaps where the regular foam strips don’t fit.
- It does leave a bit of residue, especially if you wait until it gets warm and gooey in spring. A little rubbing alcohol on a rag usually gets it off, but it’s still a minor pain.
- The stuff sticks best to wood frames, but if your paint is peeling or flaky, sometimes it pulls that off with it... learned that the hard way.
- I noticed after a full winter, some strips dried out and cracked, so I had to re-do a couple spots mid-season.
- It’s not the prettiest fix—my wife hated the look—but if you’re just trying to keep the cold out and don’t care about appearances, it does the job.

Honestly, for the price and how easy it is to use, I’d say it’s worth a shot if you don’t mind cleaning up a bit of sticky come spring. I’ve also done the old “plastic over the window” trick with double-sided tape and a hair dryer, which works even better for big drafts but looks even worse.

If you’re looking for something super temporary, rope caulk isn’t bad at all. Just don’t expect miracles if your windows are really shot... at some point, nothing helps except a full replacement.


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architecture689
Posts: 17
(@architecture689)
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I’ll admit, rope caulk is handy in a pinch, but I’ve actually had better luck with those old-school felt weatherstripping rolls for drafty sashes. They’re dirt cheap, and if you’ve got a steady hand and a staple gun, they last way longer than caulk or the plastic film stuff. My own 1915 place had some gnarly gaps—felt strips held up for three winters before I even thought about replacing them. Not the prettiest either, but at least they don’t leave sticky gunk when the sun finally comes back around.


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Posts: 11
(@builder38)
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Felt weatherstripping does have a certain appeal for old windows, especially when you’re dealing with irregular gaps and don’t want to make anything permanent. I’ve used it in a couple of rental units—quick install, and you’re right, no sticky residue. One thing that always bothered me, though, is how it tends to compress over time, especially if the sashes see a lot of use. I’d notice cold spots creeping back by the end of the second winter. Maybe that’s just the brand I picked up, or maybe my windows are just a bit too far gone.

Curious if you’ve ever tried the V-seal vinyl strips? They’re a little fussier to install, but I’ve found they do a better job of springing back after repeated openings and closings. Downside is they can be visible if the paint’s chipped or the frame’s warped, and not every sash likes them. Still, for high-traffic windows, they seem to hold up a bit longer than felt.

Where I get stuck is with those old leaded-glass windows—mine are drafty as anything and I’m reluctant to do anything that might damage the original wood. The plastic film works, sort of, but looks terrible after a few months. I’ve been thinking about making interior storm panels with acrylic sheets and magnetic tape. Not exactly “cheap” up front, but reusable year to year. Has anyone here actually tried that route for old windows, or is it more hassle than it’s worth?


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Posts: 2
(@nalameow349)
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The plastic film works, sort of, but looks terrible after a few months. I’ve been thinking about making interior storm panels with acrylic sheets and magnetic tape. Not exactly “cheap” up front, but reusable year to year.

I totally get you on the plastic film. Mine always ends up looking like a wrinkled sandwich bag by February, and the cat’s convinced it’s a new toy. The idea of those acrylic panels sounds kind of genius, honestly. I haven’t tried them myself, but I did see a neighbor put up something similar last winter. He swore it made a big difference, and he just pops them off in spring. Only thing he grumbled about was cutting the acrylic to size—apparently not as easy as it looks on YouTube.

The V-seal strips are on my radar too, though my windows are so warped I’m half convinced they’d just laugh at any attempt to seal them. But hey, if you’re willing to try the panels, I say go for it. Worst case, you end up with some extra magnetic tape for the fridge... or some creative wall art? Either way, you’re not alone in battling the drafts.


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politics575
Posts: 42
(@politics575)
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The idea of those acrylic panels sounds kind of genius, honestly.

I can see the appeal, but I’m not totally sold on acrylic panels for every window. They’re reusable, sure, but with really old sashes (like mine from the 1920s), the fit isn’t always great, and you can still get condensation trapped between layers. Plus, acrylic scratches pretty easily—one winter of the dog jumping up and mine looked rough. Sometimes just heavy thermal curtains actually do more for blocking drafts, especially if the window frames are super uneven.


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christopherc12
Posts: 27
(@christopherc12)
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Sometimes just heavy thermal curtains actually do more for blocking drafts, especially if the window frames are super uneven.

Yeah, I’ve had similar luck with thick curtains—plus, they’re way easier to swap out when the seasons change. I tried those shrink-wrap window kits once and honestly, for like $10 a window, they worked better than the acrylic for me. Not fancy, but they did the job and peeled off clean in spring. The only downside is you can’t open the window till you take it off... but in winter, that’s not a huge deal for me.


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pilot10
Posts: 16
(@pilot10)
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I hear you on the shrink-wrap kits—they’re surprisingly effective for how cheap they are. I do like thermal curtains for the flexibility, but honestly, nothing beats a quick caulk job around the frame if you’ve got big gaps. Draft snakes along the sill help too, especially in old houses like mine where nothing’s square.


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summit_shadow
Posts: 14
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Yeah, I’ve seen those shrink-wrap kits work wonders in drafty rentals—quick fix when you’re in a pinch. But you nailed it with caulk. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve pulled off old trim and found daylight streaming through gaps big enough to lose your keys in. Sometimes you gotta use backer rod first if the gap’s really wide, then caulk over that. Draft snakes are a classic too, though my dog thinks they’re toys half the time... Old houses sure keep you on your toes.


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