Removable caulk is actually a thing—DAP makes a version called Seal 'N Peel. Used it in my own 1950s house, and it held up through a brutal Boston winter. You do lose window access until you peel it off, but it comes off pretty clean in spring, no tools needed. Tape and plastic always looked messy and never lasted for me either. Flashing is overkill unless you’re doing a full rehab or have major gaps. If you’re not opening those windows anyway, just seal them up and save yourself the drafts.
I tried the plastic film with tape my first winter and it was a headache—edges peeled up and it just looked sloppy.
I’m curious about Seal ‘N Peel, though. Does it leave any residue or discoloration? I’ve got original wood trim and I’m a little paranoid about damaging it. Also, did you notice any draft at all after sealing, or was it pretty much airtight?“Tape and plastic always looked messy and never lasted for me either.”
I’m curious about Seal ‘N Peel, though. Does it leave any residue or discoloration? I’ve got original wood trim and I’m a little paranoid about damaging it.
I get the paranoia—old wood trim’s a pain to fix if something goes sideways. Tried Seal ‘N Peel one year on my 1950s windows. Didn’t get discoloration, but there was a bit of tacky residue in spots. Nothing a little elbow grease couldn’t handle, but I wouldn’t call it “invisible.” And honestly, I still felt a faint draft on windy days. Sometimes I wonder if it’s just the nature of old windows... metal flashing worked best for me, but that’s a bigger project.
Didn’t get discoloration, but there was a bit of tacky residue in spots.
Interesting you mention the residue—I had almost the opposite issue. On my 1940s casements, Seal ‘N Peel came off super clean, but the draft problem was worse for me. Maybe it’s down to how uneven the trim is? I’ve actually had better luck with the shrink film kits, even though they’re not exactly pretty. Anyone else find that stuff works better than the peel stuff?
Shrink film kits definitely win in the “actually stops the draft” department, at least in my house. But I’ve got to admit, they make my living room look like a greenhouse experiment gone wrong—crinkly plastic everywhere and that weird glare when the sun hits just right. Still, if you’re dealing with old, wavy trim or paint that’s seen better decades, I think the film does a better job sealing up all those micro gaps than any peel-off goo.
That said, I tried Seal ‘N Peel on a couple of my basement windows last winter. It worked decently for the smoother frames, but on anything even slightly uneven, it just didn’t bond well enough to keep out the cold. Maybe it’s user error, but I swear those old wood frames have more personality than half my neighbors.
If aesthetics matter, I get why folks avoid shrink film, but for pure function? Hard to beat. Just wish it didn’t look so much like I’m prepping for a science fair.
I hear you on the shrink film—my front windows looked like I’d wrapped them in leftovers last year. The drafts were gone, but every time the sun hit, it was like living in a disco ball. I’ve tried rope caulk too, but honestly, it’s a pain to get out in the spring and leaves weird gunk behind. Metal flashing is overkill for me, but I get why folks with really old houses go that route. None of it’s perfect, but I guess I’ll take ugly over freezing.
I get where you're coming from about the shrink film—it’s not exactly a look anyone’s aiming for, but it does the trick. I’ve actually had better luck with the clear silicone caulk, especially for those sneaky gaps where old wood meets glass. It’s a bit messier to apply, but it dries invisible and doesn’t leave that sticky residue rope caulk does. Downside is you have to be careful not to overdo it or you’ll be chiseling it out come spring. Still, I’d take that over dealing with plastic peeling off mid-winter...
I tried the shrink film last winter and honestly, the plastic was flapping by February—probably user error, but it drove me nuts. The caulk idea is interesting. I actually spent a Saturday afternoon with a tube of clear silicone and a roll of painter’s tape, thinking I’d be clever and keep it neat. Didn’t quite go as planned... I ended up with more on my hands than in the gaps, and there’s a spot where I definitely overdid it. You’re right, though—it’s basically invisible once it dries, and it’s held up way better than the rope stuff I used on another window.
I’m still debating if I should try metal flashing next time for the worst drafty window. It seems like overkill, but these old sashes let in so much cold air. Part of me wonders if I’m just delaying the inevitable window replacement, but for now, I’m all about the quick fixes that don’t look too terrible.
Metal flashing’s a bit much for most window drafts, unless you’re dealing with some serious gaps or rot. I’ve installed it a few times when nothing else would cut it, but it’s not exactly subtle—can look pretty rough in a living room, you know? Usually, if you’re seeing that much air coming through, you’re right: the window’s probably on borrowed time.
That said, I’m with you on the shrink film. Tried it at my place once—looked like a grocery bag taped to the window by March. The clear silicone is a solid choice for small gaps, but yeah, it gets everywhere if you’re not careful. Trick is to run painter’s tape on both sides of the gap, squeeze a thin bead, then smooth it with a wet finger or spoon. Pull the tape before it skins over... learned that one the hard way.
If you want something in between, there’s weatherstripping foam tape. Not perfect, but quick and doesn’t show much unless you’re right up on it. Eventually, though, those old sashes just need to go. But I get wanting to stretch things out—new windows aren’t cheap.
I hear you on the shrink film—tried it one winter in my old 1950s ranch and it was a wrinkled mess by February. I’ve had the best luck with the silicone, but you really do have to take your time or it’s a disaster to clean up. Foam tape’s decent for a season or two, but it gets grimy fast if you’ve got pets or dusty windowsills. Metal flashing just feels like overkill unless you’re patching something that’s basically falling apart. At some point, I just bit the bullet and swapped out two of the worst sashes—pricey, but man, what a difference in drafts and noise.