Let’s talk maintenance and care real quick. For those who invested in impact windows, any special maintenance or things to watch for?
I’ll share what I know: I asked my installer about maintenance and he said basically treat them like any window – keep the tracks clean, wash the glass with mild soapy water (no harsh chemicals that could damage the Low-E coating), and inspect the caulking annually. The caulking can sometimes develop small gaps especially if your house settles or with thermal expansion. He recommended checking before hurricane season each year and re-caulking any suspect areas or calling them to touch up (they offered 2-year workmanship warranty).
Also, if you live near the ocean (salt air), definitely rinse your window exteriors with fresh water every now and then to reduce corrosion on any metal parts (like locks or hinges). Vinyl or aluminum frames can still have metal screws, etc., that rust.
On non-impact windows with shutters: remember to maintain your shutters too! Lubricate the accordion tracks or check your panel hardware. A shutter is no good if it’s rusted stuck when a storm comes.
I’m a bit OCD, so I actually made a checklist for window care I do every spring. Might be overkill, but these things cost tens of thousands, so I want them to last decades.
Good call @boardgames_katie. I’m in a high-rise condo now (impact glass all around by code), but I used to own a single-family home (built 1997) where we replaced windows. One more thing on maintenance:
If you have tinted or Low-E glass, avoid scratching it or using razor blades to clean paint off. Some coatings can be damaged by abrasives. And if you ever have windows filmed (some add aftermarket tint or security film), check with your manufacturer because it can void warranty sometimes if not done right.
Anyway, to keep with the thread theme: cost and quotes, let me contribute that from the condo side – we had the association replace all our windows after Hurricane Irma, and the cost per unit (we each had to chip in via special assessment) was roughly $1,100 per window for large impact windows, and about $2,000 per sliding door. Condo installs are another beast (cranes, etc.), but just interesting how even in bulk it was similar pricing to what folks here paid individually.
The technology of impact windows has improved a lot since the late 90s. My condo had original 1992 impact windows (old school, thick frames and greenish glass) and the new ones are clearer, more energy efficient, and even stronger. So if anyone is debating replacing older impact windows (from early generations) with new ones, there are benefits in comfort and efficiency too, not just protection.
Jumping in late here with a quick story: My friend lives in a 1998-built house in the Florida Keys. When they bought it, half the windows were impact (added by a prior owner after Hurricane Wilma), and half were still ancient jalousie windows (yes, those old crank louver ones!). They replaced the jalousies with impact windows last year.
One thing they dealt with: because the house is CBS (concrete block structure) and those old windows were an odd size, the installation required cutting into the concrete opening a bit to fit modern standard-sized windows. That added to the labor cost. They paid a mason to resize two openings. So sometimes older houses, especially late 90s or earlier, might have weird window sizes or non-standard construction that complicates things.
Cost for them: around $20k for 10 windows, but that included the extra structural work and some nice fiberglass frames (they chose fiberglass impact windows, I think Marvin Elevate or something like that).
They also got quotes from like 5 companies since down in the Keys there are fewer contractors and you want to be sure. Two companies never even got back to them (busy schedule), one was way high, and two were similar. They went with the one that could do the masonry as part of the package.
Now their home is fully impact protected and their insurance actually dropped significantly because previously only half openings were protected (which gave no credit). After proof of full impact protection, they got like 20% off their windstorm premium. Insurance is crazy high there, so that was a big relief.
@natemusician233 I can relate on weird constructions. My house is late 90s but had some non-standard window sizes too. One was a really wide horizontal slider that nobody made in the same dimensions anymore. The company ended up having to order a custom size (which almost all replacement windows are custom fabbed to size, but this one exceeded some width so it was an extra charge).
To anyone planning: if you have any very large windows or odd shapes, expect possibly higher cost for those units. Round top windows, big picture windows, etc., can be the price of 2 or 3 standard windows sometimes.
In my case, that wide slider window (about 6 feet tall by 8 feet wide, a single slider unit) cost as much as three regular windows combined. We debated splitting it into two windows with a post in between, which could’ve been cheaper, but we liked the unobstructed view.
Back to cost differences: impact glass for that big window added about $1000 extra vs non-impact. We did it anyway because that side faces the golf course (like @breezetraveler, worried about golf balls!). And sure enough, we found a scuff mark on that window one day, likely a golf ball hit that didn’t break it. Money well spent.
For those who have done partial replacements (like only some windows), how do you deal with the rest later?
My house (built 1995) still has half original windows because I could only afford to do 5 out of 10 windows last year. I did impact windows in the most critical areas (front and a couple in back where we spend the most time). The remaining ones I plan to do in a year or two when I save up.
I’m a bit worried about the old ones failing in a storm in the meantime. I have shutters for them, so that’s okay for hurricanes, but one is a bit leaky and drafty.
Also, the new windows look slightly different (frame style) than the old ones. It’s only noticeable up close. But I hope when I do the rest, everything matches. I made sure to stick with the same manufacturer for phase 2.
So if anyone goes the phased approach: try to use the same brand and series of window for all phases, so you don’t end up with mismatched styles. And remember that prices can go up, so the quote you get one year may be higher next year. In my case the company guaranteed the same unit price for two years for me since I told them upfront I’d do another phase later.
It’s a bit awkward because one of my old windows is super cloudy (failed seal) and right next to a new crystal-clear one. But hey, budget is budget. At least some of my house is updated and protected, and we’ll get there on the rest soon.
Late 90s houses represent! Mine’s a 1998 tract home in coastal Mississippi. Just replaced all windows and wanted to mention the tax credit angle.
There are sometimes federal or state incentives for energy-efficient windows. For example, last year (2024) there was a federal tax credit for energy-efficient home improvements, and impact windows that are ENERGY STAR rated qualify. I was able to claim a credit of 30% of the cost of the windows (not including labor), up to a certain max. I got about $600 back on my taxes because of it.
So, while not exactly a “cost difference” for impact vs non-impact, if the impact window has better efficiency (often they do have good Low-E coatings), you might get a slight financial perk via tax season. Non-impact would also qualify if they have the efficiency ratings, of course.
I also got a small rebate from my utility company for installing high-efficiency windows – it was like $50 per window capped at $300. I filled out a form and a couple months later got a rebate check. Not huge, but hey, every bit helps after spending a chunk of money.
So I suggest folks look into any local programs (some states have specific hurricane mitigation credits or grants, some utilities have energy upgrade rebates, etc.). It can offset part of that cost difference perhaps.
Loving all the info here. Wish I had this thread before I started; I learned some of these things the hard way or late.
Quick experience share: I have a 1999-built home in a historic district (odd, I know, 1999 but in a designated historic neighborhood in Savannah, GA). Because of that, we had to get windows that met certain appearance guidelines (had to look like old wood windows with grids, etc.).
We found an impact-rated wood-clad window that satisfied the historic review board. Cost was insane compared to vinyl: about $1,800 per window 😬 (true divided light wood interior, aluminum-clad exterior with impact glass). We only had 6 windows to do (small house) so we sucked it up.
If we didn’t have the historic restriction, we could have done vinyl impact windows for like $700 each. But just sharing that sometimes your neighborhood or HOA can affect cost if they demand a certain type of window.
On the plus side, those wood impact windows are gorgeous and solid. They actually feel like the original 1920s windows in heft, but perform like a modern window. Our neighbors were all impressed we got them approved and installed. And yes, they are quiet and energy efficient too.
So yeah, our case is unique but might help someone dealing with aesthetic rules. There are options out there, but you’ll pay a premium for impact products that are also architecturally fancy.
My contribution: focusing on post-installation life with impact windows versus non-impact:
We replaced old windows in 2023 with impact ones (house year 2000, so basically late 90s tech before). Now living with them through all seasons, here are some differences we felt day-to-day:
Temperature comfort: less drafty for sure. We also find the house heats up slower under direct sun because of the Low-E coatings. The old windows would allow a lot of heat in by midday.
Condensation resistance: we used to get condensation on the inside of our old single-pane windows in winter mornings. The new double-pane impact ones have basically eliminated that.
Sound: as many said, big improvement. We had a neighbor’s dog that we could hear clearly before, now it’s much muted.
Cleaning: one downside, our new windows don’t have those tilt-in features (since they’re impact single-hung, they don’t tilt in for cleaning due to how the locks are designed). So cleaning outside is a bit more of a chore needing a ladder. Some impact windows do tilt, but ours didn’t to maintain structural integrity. So check on that if it matters to you.
Weight on old structure: This is minor, but our house had to have a thorough check of the header support above a large window because the impact unit was significantly heavier. The installer actually added some screws and shims to reinforce it. Just interesting that even the structural loads can change slightly.
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In short, living with impact windows has been great. No regrets. Just know a few little quirks (like cleaning or weight) and plan accordingly.
Has anyone done DIY or self-installation for windows, impact or not? I know it’s generally not recommended for impact because of permits and difficulty, but curious if any handy homeowner did their own replacements to save money.
I considered doing my own non-impact window installs on my 1997 house to save on labor (labor was about 30% of the quote cost). But ultimately I chickened out and hired pros. Watching them, I’m glad I did – they encountered some wood rot and knew how to rebuild the sill on the fly. Would’ve taken me forever.
If someone is super handy and the windows are not too large/heavy, DIY on non-impact could be feasible, but on impact I’d say it’s a big risk unless you really know what you’re doing. Plus, in many places, it wouldn’t pass inspection without a licensed installer’s sign-off.
Anyway, doing it professionally might cost more upfront, but it ensures the warranty is valid (many manufacturers void warranty if not installed by a certified pro). So factor that into cost considerations too – a cheaper DIY route might actually void the product warranty.
Just thought I’d mention in case anyone out there is thinking of saving a buck by self-installing. Sometimes penny wise, pound foolish if something leaks or fails later.
@lunawoodworker I actually helped a friend DIY three window replacements (non-impact) in a shed/office building behind his house, just to learn. It was a workout but we did it. No way would I try that on my actual house though, especially not with expensive impact windows. One misstep and you could crack the frame or glass.
Shifting back to costs: has anyone noticed the pricing trends over the years? My brother replaced his windows in 2018 (impact windows in South FL) and paid about $1000 per window on average. Now people are quoting $1300+ for similar. Seems prices have gone up, which isn’t surprising (inflation, supply chain, higher demand).
So if you’re thinking of waiting hoping for prices to drop – I wouldn’t bet on it. In fact, after a big hurricane, demand spikes and prices sometimes jump or stock becomes scarce. Some suppliers in Florida had delays after Irma in 2017 and again after Ian in 2022 because so many people needed replacements or decided to upgrade.
That’s another tip: If you decide to get impact windows, do it in a calm time, not right after a disaster. You’ll get better attention and maybe better pricing when companies are not swamped. Same with shutters actually. Off-season deals can save a bit.