Is there some secret to making these frames fit better in old houses, or is it just always a game of compromise?
Honestly, getting “crisp lines” in a house from the 50s is tough unless you’re willing to do some serious reframing. Most of the time, it really is about compromise—if it’s square enough to open and close smoothly and stops drafts, you’re ahead of the game. Composite shims are a smart move. If you want those TV-perfect lines, sometimes scribing trim or using wider casing helps hide imperfections. The shows always gloss over how much patching and caulking goes on behind the scenes...
Yeah, I’ve run into this a bunch, especially in my old ranch from the early 60s. No matter how much I shimmed or measured, the frames always looked a bit off compared to the walls. One time I thought I had everything perfect, then stepped back and realized the wall itself was bowed. Ended up using wider trim to cheat the eye, just like you mentioned. Honestly, sometimes it feels like the house is fighting back... but I guess that’s part of the charm?
- Can totally relate to the wall fighting back—sometimes feels like the house has a mind of its own.
- Older homes just aren’t square, no matter how much you measure. Frustrating, but also kind of makes each project unique.
- Wider trim has saved me more than once, especially around doors and windows that just won’t cooperate.
- Sometimes I wonder if it’s better to aim for “looks right” instead of “is right”... perfection just isn’t possible with these old walls.
- At the end of the day, if it looks good and works, that’s a win in my book.
Sometimes I wonder if it’s better to aim for “looks right” instead of “is right”... perfection just isn’t possible with these old walls.
That hits home for me. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve measured, re-measured, and still ended up with a window frame that just won’t sit flush. One job last winter, the wall bowed out nearly half an inch over four feet—no amount of shimming was going to make that “right.” I ended up using a wider casing and some creative caulking. Honestly, nobody notices unless they’re looking for it.
I get the urge to chase perfection, but with these older houses, you’re fighting decades of settling and shifting. Sometimes you have to step back and ask, “Does it look good? Is it sealed up?” If the answer’s yes, that’s a win.
That said, I do think there’s a line—if the window’s obviously crooked or you’re compromising function, that’s a problem. But for most jobs, I’d rather have a solid, weather-tight install that looks right from five feet away than burn hours chasing millimeter-perfect alignment.
That’s pretty much my approach too. I’ve spent way too long fussing over tiny gaps that nobody ever sees. With these old plaster walls, you’d drive yourself nuts trying to get everything laser-straight. As long as it works and looks good from a normal distance, I call it done. Sometimes you just have to accept a little “character.”
Sometimes you just have to accept a little “character.”
Yeah, totally get that. I used to stress over every tiny gap too, but with these old houses, it’s just not worth it. My 1950s place has walls that bow in and out, so there’s no way everything’s lining up perfect. I figure if it opens, closes, and looks fine from across the room, I’m good. Little imperfections just come with the territory.
It’s funny, I used to be a total perfectionist about stuff like this, but old houses have a way of knocking that out of you. My place is from the late ‘40s and honestly, if I tried to get every window frame lined up perfectly, I’d lose my mind (and probably my weekends for the next year). Sometimes you just have to step back and realize—if the window opens and closes without sticking, and it keeps the rain out, you’re already ahead of the game.
I’ve noticed that even when I measure everything twice, the walls themselves are never square. You can shim and tweak all day, but at some point you’re fighting the house more than you’re fixing anything. I do try to get things as close as possible, but I’ve learned to accept a little daylight here and there. It’s not like anyone’s going around with a level and a ruler except for me.
Have you ever tried to square up an old door frame? Same deal. I spent hours on one in my kitchen last year and finally realized the house had settled so much over the decades that “straight” just isn’t an option anymore. At least with aluminum windows, they’re usually forgiving enough that a bit of caulk or trim can cover up most sins.
I get wanting things to look clean—trust me, I do—but sometimes a little character is just part of the charm. And honestly, after living here for a while, those quirks are almost comforting. Makes you wonder how anyone ever got anything perfectly straight in these places back when they were built... or if they even cared.
Yeah, you nailed it. I can’t count how many times I’ve been called in to “fix” a crooked window or door in an old place, only to realize the whole wall is out of whack. Sometimes you just have to pick the least crooked line and call it good. Trim and caulk are your best friends—no shame in hiding a little daylight if it means the window actually works. Funny thing is, most folks never notice unless you point it out...
- Happens all the time—old houses never have a true square opening.
- You’re right, trim and caulk are lifesavers. No shame at all, it’s just how you make it look finished.
- Honestly, most people don’t see the small stuff unless you mention it. I stopped pointing out minor gaps years ago.
- If the window operates smoothly and seals up, that’s what matters. Chasing perfect lines in a wonky wall is just asking for a headache.
- Only thing I’d add: sometimes shimming behind the frame helps even things out, but you can only do so much before it gets obvious.
- At the end of the day, it’s about function and not letting drafts in. If it looks good from five feet away, you did your job.
Square openings are more of a myth than a reality, especially in homes built before the 80s. Even with new construction, lumber shrinkage and settling can throw things off just enough to make aluminum frames tough to align perfectly. I’ve found that over-shimming can actually make the frame flex, which sometimes messes with the operation or even causes binding down the line. I usually try to get the frame as plumb as possible, then rely on flexible trim and a good bead of caulk to hide the sins. One thing I’ve noticed—if you use too much caulk, it can crack over time as the house moves... so there’s a balance. Anyone else run into issues with aluminum frames warping if you force them into an uneven opening?